Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
09-30-2006, 09:24 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> it.
>
> I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> hmm.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > >
> > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > TW
> > > ---------
> > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> it.
>
> I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> hmm.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > >
> > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > TW
> > > ---------
> > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
09-30-2006, 09:24 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> it.
>
> I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> hmm.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > >
> > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > TW
> > > ---------
> > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> it.
>
> I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> hmm.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > >
> > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > TW
> > > ---------
> > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
10-01-2006, 10:32 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-01-2006, 10:32 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-01-2006, 10:32 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
old one.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
>
> Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > it.
> >
> > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > hmm.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > >
> > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi All,
> > > >
> > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > >
> > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > TW
> > > > ---------
> > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-01-2006, 03:32 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
10-01-2006, 03:32 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
10-01-2006, 03:32 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
(a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Thanks, that's good to know.
>
> I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued
> into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it
> while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should
> clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an
> old one.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
> > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was
> > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together
> > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with
> > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when
> > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5
> > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.
> >
> > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding
> > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough
> > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I
> > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was
> > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably
> > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair.
> >
> > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
> > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the
> > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use
> > > it.
> > >
> > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip
> > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots
> > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue
> > > hmm.....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > Will Honea wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
> > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of
> > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it
> > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and
> > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots
> > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks
> > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi All,
> > > > >
> > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > TW
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Will Honea
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
--
Will Honea
10-01-2006, 10:21 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
10-01-2006, 10:21 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
