Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
10-01-2006, 10:21 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
10-02-2006, 12:57 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
10-02-2006, 12:57 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
10-02-2006, 12:57 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> You got to be related to my Dad:
> http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
> > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey
> > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should
> > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't
> > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give
> > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the
> > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down
> > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate
> > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>).
--
Will Honea
10-02-2006, 01:56 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
10-02-2006, 01:56 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
10-02-2006, 01:56 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather).
TW
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11...
TW wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary)
> and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has
> cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is
> clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks
> about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for
> changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want
> to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is
> only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press
the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at
a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives
over on your side of the pond.
Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with
some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new
grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/
Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years.
I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the
excess.
--
DougW
10-02-2006, 01:58 AM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
10-02-2006, 01:58 AM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
10-02-2006, 01:58 AM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL
TW
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca...
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to
get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).
>
> BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).
>
> Thanks
> TW
> ---------
> '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL