twaldron

Just Brakes got in serious trouble for that type of "upselling".
Basically, once the vehicle was apart, they "couldn't put it back
together and let you drive off" with the vehicle in "that
condition"...or they could not warranty the job if it wasn't done
"completely and correctly". Their advertised $99 brake job (pad/shoe
replacement) was not to be obtained by most people.

Elflan wrote:

> "K Horner" <k@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<Rc4Ac.45909$eu.1015@attbi_s02>...
>
>>Not to put to fine a point on it but, this is the type of thing a jeep owner
>>should be able to do him/her self.
>
>
> Thanks for all the comments.
> Yes, I have done brakes before but this time I did not want to do it
> myself. My biggest problem is that I had already gone to the trouble
> of making the time to go to the shop and expecting to have just the
> pads replaced and then being sold up on all the other stuff.
>
> It's me figuring that I'll have to have this done sooner or later,
> probably sooner and I'll either be trying to decide to do the work
> myself,(inexperienced) or find another shop to do this work and then
> find the time again to take it in. It's part ignorance and laziness.
> That is my fault. I got a bad case of "oh,what the hell,go ahead."

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

Paul Calman

If you don't know how to do your brakes, and don't have tools, you did OK.
You could buy a bunch of tools and take an auto shop course at night school,
and might enjoy it.
When I do someone's brakes, I never use the cheapest parts available. I
prefer quality parts to chinese crap. I can buy a new, German made, Benz
rotor for as low as $26, but that has nothing to do with the price of a Jeep
rotor. One Brembo rotor will cost me $96 for a 99 TJ + tax. Then, I mark it
up 15%, so I would charge $237.36 for top quality rotors, or you bring me
kragen's crap and I don't guarantee the job.
I also try to do things equally on both sides, in pairs. If a caliper is
seizing, or a cyl leaks, how long will it be until the other one
malfunctions? Murphy's law says about a week, so I won't take the risk with
your life, or my reputation.
The "ev/materials charge" is illegal in California, they have to itemize
individual supplies. Let's see, one can of brake cleaner, one quart of brake
fliud, 2 pairs of nitrile gloves, mop the floor,

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

If you don't know how to do your brakes, and don't have tools, you did OK.
You could buy a bunch of tools and take an auto shop course at night school,
and might enjoy it.
When I do someone's brakes, I never use the cheapest parts available. I
prefer quality parts to chinese crap. I can buy a new, German made, Benz
rotor for as low as $26, but that has nothing to do with the price of a Jeep
rotor. One Brembo rotor will cost me $96 for a 99 TJ + tax. Then, I mark it
up 15%, so I would charge $237.36 for top quality rotors, or you bring me
kragen's crap and I don't guarantee the job.
I also try to do things equally on both sides, in pairs. If a caliper is
seizing, or a cyl leaks, how long will it be until the other one
malfunctions? Murphy's law says about a week, so I won't take the risk with
your life, or my reputation.
The "ev/materials charge" is illegal in California, they have to itemize
individual supplies. Let's see, one can of brake cleaner, one quart of brake
fliud, 2 pairs of nitrile gloves, mop the floor,

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

If you don't know how to do your brakes, and don't have tools, you did OK.
You could buy a bunch of tools and take an auto shop course at night school,
and might enjoy it.
When I do someone's brakes, I never use the cheapest parts available. I
prefer quality parts to chinese crap. I can buy a new, German made, Benz
rotor for as low as $26, but that has nothing to do with the price of a Jeep
rotor. One Brembo rotor will cost me $96 for a 99 TJ + tax. Then, I mark it
up 15%, so I would charge $237.36 for top quality rotors, or you bring me
kragen's crap and I don't guarantee the job.
I also try to do things equally on both sides, in pairs. If a caliper is
seizing, or a cyl leaks, how long will it be until the other one
malfunctions? Murphy's law says about a week, so I won't take the risk with
your life, or my reputation.
The "ev/materials charge" is illegal in California, they have to itemize
individual supplies. Let's see, one can of brake cleaner, one quart of brake
fliud, 2 pairs of nitrile gloves, mop the floor,

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

If you don't know how to do your brakes, and don't have tools, you did OK.
You could buy a bunch of tools and take an auto shop course at night school,
and might enjoy it.
When I do someone's brakes, I never use the cheapest parts available. I
prefer quality parts to chinese crap. I can buy a new, German made, Benz
rotor for as low as $26, but that has nothing to do with the price of a Jeep
rotor. One Brembo rotor will cost me $96 for a 99 TJ + tax. Then, I mark it
up 15%, so I would charge $237.36 for top quality rotors, or you bring me
kragen's crap and I don't guarantee the job.
I also try to do things equally on both sides, in pairs. If a caliper is
seizing, or a cyl leaks, how long will it be until the other one
malfunctions? Murphy's law says about a week, so I won't take the risk with
your life, or my reputation.
The "ev/materials charge" is illegal in California, they have to itemize
individual supplies. Let's see, one can of brake cleaner, one quart of brake
fliud, 2 pairs of nitrile gloves, mop the floor,

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Will Honea

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:26:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I live in the rust belt and when I see one caliper or wheel cylinder
> gone bad I always recommend the person change both if it is possible to
> do. (some are so rotted we just thank the stars we got one side dome
> ok)
>
> They went in in pairs, they were made in pairs, they usually wear out in
> pairs.
>
> The last two folks I helped with rear cylinders have both come back
> within 6 months needing the other side done.
>
> There are exceptions. I broke the bleeder screw on my CJ's front
> caliper because I was in a rush to go bush running. Rather than mess
> with it, I spent the $19.00 for a remanned one. The other side was
> still in very fine shape.

Probably a good idea, but not too many of my parts die a natural death
- I usually wind up snagging a brake line, bashing a wheel, get gravel
imbedded in one brake pad, etc. Case in point: cracked a brake pad
and wiped out a rotor. A quick check with a mic showed that the other
rotor was well within limits so why spend $60-$70 for the second one
when a light touchup pass was all it needed? I guess it boils down to
judging every case on it's merits if you have the luxury of time and
knowlege. Now, when I was helping the Father-in-law in his garage it
was totally different: anything to avoid comebacks from a customer who
didn't understand the tradeoffs.

My daughter has gotten to the point that she comes over and does one
full repair herself just so she knows what to look for when they start
the "here comes another blonde" routine. It's fun to watch her
working the poor unsuspecting grease monkies over <g>.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:26:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I live in the rust belt and when I see one caliper or wheel cylinder
> gone bad I always recommend the person change both if it is possible to
> do. (some are so rotted we just thank the stars we got one side dome
> ok)
>
> They went in in pairs, they were made in pairs, they usually wear out in
> pairs.
>
> The last two folks I helped with rear cylinders have both come back
> within 6 months needing the other side done.
>
> There are exceptions. I broke the bleeder screw on my CJ's front
> caliper because I was in a rush to go bush running. Rather than mess
> with it, I spent the $19.00 for a remanned one. The other side was
> still in very fine shape.

Probably a good idea, but not too many of my parts die a natural death
- I usually wind up snagging a brake line, bashing a wheel, get gravel
imbedded in one brake pad, etc. Case in point: cracked a brake pad
and wiped out a rotor. A quick check with a mic showed that the other
rotor was well within limits so why spend $60-$70 for the second one
when a light touchup pass was all it needed? I guess it boils down to
judging every case on it's merits if you have the luxury of time and
knowlege. Now, when I was helping the Father-in-law in his garage it
was totally different: anything to avoid comebacks from a customer who
didn't understand the tradeoffs.

My daughter has gotten to the point that she comes over and does one
full repair herself just so she knows what to look for when they start
the "here comes another blonde" routine. It's fun to watch her
working the poor unsuspecting grease monkies over <g>.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:26:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I live in the rust belt and when I see one caliper or wheel cylinder
> gone bad I always recommend the person change both if it is possible to
> do. (some are so rotted we just thank the stars we got one side dome
> ok)
>
> They went in in pairs, they were made in pairs, they usually wear out in
> pairs.
>
> The last two folks I helped with rear cylinders have both come back
> within 6 months needing the other side done.
>
> There are exceptions. I broke the bleeder screw on my CJ's front
> caliper because I was in a rush to go bush running. Rather than mess
> with it, I spent the $19.00 for a remanned one. The other side was
> still in very fine shape.

Probably a good idea, but not too many of my parts die a natural death
- I usually wind up snagging a brake line, bashing a wheel, get gravel
imbedded in one brake pad, etc. Case in point: cracked a brake pad
and wiped out a rotor. A quick check with a mic showed that the other
rotor was well within limits so why spend $60-$70 for the second one
when a light touchup pass was all it needed? I guess it boils down to
judging every case on it's merits if you have the luxury of time and
knowlege. Now, when I was helping the Father-in-law in his garage it
was totally different: anything to avoid comebacks from a customer who
didn't understand the tradeoffs.

My daughter has gotten to the point that she comes over and does one
full repair herself just so she knows what to look for when they start
the "here comes another blonde" routine. It's fun to watch her
working the poor unsuspecting grease monkies over <g>.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:26:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I live in the rust belt and when I see one caliper or wheel cylinder
> gone bad I always recommend the person change both if it is possible to
> do. (some are so rotted we just thank the stars we got one side dome
> ok)
>
> They went in in pairs, they were made in pairs, they usually wear out in
> pairs.
>
> The last two folks I helped with rear cylinders have both come back
> within 6 months needing the other side done.
>
> There are exceptions. I broke the bleeder screw on my CJ's front
> caliper because I was in a rush to go bush running. Rather than mess
> with it, I spent the $19.00 for a remanned one. The other side was
> still in very fine shape.

Probably a good idea, but not too many of my parts die a natural death
- I usually wind up snagging a brake line, bashing a wheel, get gravel
imbedded in one brake pad, etc. Case in point: cracked a brake pad
and wiped out a rotor. A quick check with a mic showed that the other
rotor was well within limits so why spend $60-$70 for the second one
when a light touchup pass was all it needed? I guess it boils down to
judging every case on it's merits if you have the luxury of time and
knowlege. Now, when I was helping the Father-in-law in his garage it
was totally different: anything to avoid comebacks from a customer who
didn't understand the tradeoffs.

My daughter has gotten to the point that she comes over and does one
full repair herself just so she knows what to look for when they start
the "here comes another blonde" routine. It's fun to watch her
working the poor unsuspecting grease monkies over <g>.

--
Will Honea

CRWLR

"Elflan" <elflan@geocities.com> wrote in message
news:5b2e6a47.0406161713.273d1204@posting.google.c om...
> > ground beef to smash out a few burgers, some buns, cheese and a few ears
of
> > corn. The burger fixin's run about $20. I think your costs were a bit on
the
> > high side.
>
>
> Thanks for taking the time to itemize these costs for me. I screwed up
> and that's all there is to it.
> I won't go back there again, ever.
> Nothing else I can do now.


It is a learning experience. Learn, and live.