Dana 30 gear noise
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Hi Earle,
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Hi Earle,
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Hi Earle,
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
I still do, I believe there's enough weight in the pinion to absorb
the shock, makes setting up a crush sleeve done in seconds. And I've
never had a bearing or ring and pinion failure, broken many factory rear
ends though. Nineteen Ford nine inches in a '61 FX under warranty.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I have more
> experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
>
> Earle
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
highway speeds too.
Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
ft-lbs either.
/Peter
"Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
news:0I-dnfC88IPqSkbfRVn-jw@storm.ca...
> Hmm. A conundrum has surfaced. I've incrementally increased the torque on
> the pinion nut a few times to the maximum of 250 ft-lbs my torque wrench
> will do. The preload has increased, i can feel more resistance to turning,
> but I can still turn the pinion nut with my in-lbs torque wrench set to
it's
> minimum of 25 in-lbs without it clicking.
>
> What do I do? Crank on the pinion nut with a breaker bar and hope I don't
go
> to far, or put it all back together and hope the preload is enough as-is?
>
> /Peter
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42DBCD56.FE0E1BFE@sympatico.ca...
> > That is the idea Peter. It can take up to 500 ft lb to set that sucker
> > according to the book I have. I was always told to go at least to 300,
> > but as mentioned, I have never done one.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > >
> > > Disregard what, exactly? The bit about the air impact wrench? Seeing
as
> I
> > > don't have one, that won't be a problem ;-)
> > >
> > > Actually, someone mentioned somewhere in this thread that using
anything
> > > further sown the drivetrain to hold the pinion from turning wouldn't
> work.
> > > Now that I've played around with it a bit more, I can see - or should
I
> say
> > > feel - how the gear teeth would cause the pinion to "walk" a bit,
> thowing
> > > things off. I think the only way to do this properly is to have
> something to
> > > hold the yoke itself, which is what I've done. I've reinstalled it
using
> red
> > > Loc-Tite on the nut, snugged it up to 160 ft-lbs, and removed my yoke
> > > grabber. The axle shafts are removed, and it's taking way less torque
> than
> > > my inch-lbs torque wrench can measure to turn the pinion.
> > >
> > > So, just to make sure, what I should be doing now is increasing the
> torque
> > > on the pinion yoke nut incrementally until it takes 30 inch-lbs or so
to
> > > turn the pinion?
> > >
> > > /Peter
> > >
> > > "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1121699291.1230ba0de444f436447964b5ba854b66@t eranews...
> > > > Thirty years ago I would have used an air impact wrench, but now I
> have
> > > more
> > > > experience. Please disregard this. ;o)
> > > >
> > > > Earle
> > > >
> > > > "Peter Pontbriand" <TRIMsprocketATstormDOTcaTRIM> wrote in message
> > > > news:wc-dnY8EOLPcWUbfRVn-tQ@storm.ca...
> > > > > The thing is cone shaped, no flat spots for any sort of pipe
wrench
> like
> > > a
> > > > > regular u-joint yoke. There is a narrow lip at the widest part of
> the
> > > cone
> > > > > (away from the pinion), but it would take a mighty big pipe wrench
> to
> > > grab
> > > > > that, and I don't have such an animal. Plus, I think it would get
> pretty
> > > > > messed up by a pipe wrench doing 160 - 500 ft-lbs. I doubt that an
> oil
> > > > > filter wrench would be able to hold it at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've just drilled the two holes in the bar stock so that it can be
> > > bolted
> > > > to
> > > > > the yoke using two of the six bolts, I just hope that that is
> > > sufficient.
> > > > I
> > > > > don't want to break or distort the yoke using only two of the
holes
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it, but trying to fab another arm onto it to grab a third hole
seems
> > > like
> > > > > excess right now - it's 33 degrees Celsius in the garage and very
> humid.
> > > > >
> > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:42DBBC5F.CC408F96@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Won't something like a chain oil filter wrench grab it? How
about
> a
> > > > > > plumbers pipe wrench?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't have a photo, but the trick is to make the bar so the
> socket
> > > > > > fits past it if you can or so the socket is just captured under
it
> > > while
> > > > > > still being able to turn.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I'm back from Jamboree and need to get the ZJ going so
my
> wife
> > > > > isn't
> > > > > > > constantly at the mall with my TJ. My first step will be to
fab
> up
> > > > this
> > > > > > > "pinion yoke grabber" tool. I've got a three-foot length of
1/4"
> x 1
> > > > > 1/2"
> > > > > > > bar stock handy. Will two holes drilled in this be sufficient,
> or
> > > > should
> > > > > I
> > > > > > > be building a pivoting arm with a third hole in it like the
one
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > > picture in the FSM? There are a total of six bolts holding the
> > > > > driveshaft to
> > > > > > > this yoke ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:42D66740.8206EB07@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > > > Unfortunately Peter, that is the only way to get it right if
> you
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > > have that grabber tool. I would fast be making a bar of
steel
> up
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > > couple holes drilled into it so I could bolt it to the
pinion
> to
> > > > hold
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > > steady while tightening.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are a real bitch to set up and for all the engine and
> other
> > > > kinds
> > > > > > > > of work I do, I send out the diffs. Then a Jeep shop did
mine
> > > wrong
> > > > > > > > even and it cost me a cool $500.00 to fix at a 'real'
machine
> > > shop!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > They are something like setting up a steering box, you
cannot
> do
> > > the
> > > > > > > > preload with the steering wheel or drag link attached. If
you
> do,
> > > > you
> > > > > > > > fast have a dead box.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in
'00
> > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Wait a sec, with the axles out I've no way to stop the
> pinion
> > > gear
> > > > > from
> > > > > > > > > turning while I tighten the nut - I'm using the brakes for
> that.
> > > > > This is
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > ZJ with a CV yoke thats perfectly round, no flat spots for
a
> > > > wrench
> > > > > of
> > > > > > > any
> > > > > > > > > sort. Naturally, I don't have the fancy tool in the FSM
for
> > > > holding
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > yoke.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Surely I can't be expected to remove the brake calipers,
> hubs,
> > > and
> > > > > axle
> > > > > > > > > shafts to measure pinion preload, then put them all back
on
> to
> > > > > tighten
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > nut, then do it over again a bunch of times until it's
> right?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> message
> > > > > > > > > news:42D5B2A9.F685C79A@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > When you remove the nut make sure it hasn't
bottomed
> out
> > > as
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > yoke should have easily slid up to where the old one was
> up
> > > > > against
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > bearing to crush sleeve. That would be thirty inch
pounds
> > > > without
> > > > > > > axles,
> > > > > > > > > > for pinion test.
> > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Hmm. I think I'll remove the nut and use some blue
> Loc-Tite
> > > > > then.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > All I did on the weekend was install the yoke and
> tighten
> > > the
> > > > > nut to
> > > > > > > 160
> > > > > > > > > > > lbs-ft. Just now I removed the drive shaft again and
> turned
> > > > the
> > > > > > > pinion
> > > > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > > > my lbs-in torque wrench set to 30 with no clicks, so
it
> > > needs
> > > > to
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > tighter.
> > > > > > > > > > > I think there's even a bit of play in it, but its hard
> to
> > > tell
> > > > > > > what's
> > > > > > > > > lash
> > > > > > > > > > > and what play. Unfortunately now I have to wait for a
> helper
> > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > stronger
> > > > > > > > > > > legs than my six-year-old - he can't push on the brake
> pedal
> > > > > hard
> > > > > > > enough
> > > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > > > stop the wheels from spinning when I turn the pinion
> nut.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in
> > > message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:42D5A772.6837BD56@***.net...
> > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Peter,
> > > > > > > > > > > > I never have, but then I've heard of many that
> have
> > > > > loosened.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > > > you have pinion bearing play the the yoke you have
is
> not
> > > > > sliding
> > > > > > > up
> > > > > > > > > > > > hard against the bearing like the previous one did,
as
> the
> > > > > crush
> > > > > > > > > sleeve
> > > > > > > > > > > > separating the bearings is naturally in-between
them.
> Have
> > > > you
> > > > > hit
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > > > > > with an impact, and walked it on down? being careful
> in
> > > > > feeling
> > > > > > > with
> > > > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > > > other hand for when it begins to snug up.
> > > > > > > > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > > > > > > > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Peter Pontbriand wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The pinion nut is some sort of stover nut, but
it's
> been
> > > > > re-used
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > > > > couple of
> > > > > > > > > > > > > times. Should I be putting some sort of Loc-Tite
on
> it?
> > > > Red
> > > > > or
> > > > > > > Blue?
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > /Peter
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Be sure and tell them you switched yokes, I believe that's your
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Be sure and tell them you switched yokes, I believe that's your
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 30 gear noise
Be sure and tell them you switched yokes, I believe that's your
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter
problem, because it should slid right in against the bearing like the
old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Well, I did both, I tightened the pinion nut a bit beyond 250 using a
> breaker bar, then put it all back together hoping the preload was enough. It
> wasn't. Still lots of howling when coasting and now it howls when driving at
> highway speeds too.
>
> Since I've wasted enough of my time crawling around on the floor of a
> superheated garage with no hoist and inadequate tools, I'm going to hand
> this off to a pro, assuming I can find one. Haven't had any luck so far,
> they keep telling me they don't have torque wrenches that go beyond 250
> ft-lbs either.
>
> /Peter