cold start sluggishness
I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. Deano wrote: > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. Deano wrote: > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. Deano wrote: > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter. Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is bolted down tight. Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking. You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine rumbles when you spray, you have a leak. Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them. You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1 notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Deano wrote: > > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter. Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is bolted down tight. Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking. You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine rumbles when you spray, you have a leak. Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them. You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1 notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Deano wrote: > > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter. Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is bolted down tight. Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking. You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine rumbles when you spray, you have a leak. Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them. You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1 notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Deano wrote: > > I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and > received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right. > > 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass > > I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a > very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some > serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees > this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and > idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then > the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue > under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should > be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the > EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing > something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a > vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?. > > Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this. > > Thanks |
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Micah wrote: > > What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly > crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never > tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look > at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... > suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook > the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. |
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Micah wrote: > > What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly > crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never > tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look > at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... > suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook > the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. |
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Micah wrote: > > What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly > crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never > tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look > at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"... > suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook > the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens. |
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