cold start sluggishness
12-06-2006, 06:43 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
cold start sluggishness
I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
Thanks
received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
Thanks
12-08-2006, 02:26 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 02:26 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 02:26 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
Deano wrote:
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 11:31 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 11:31 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 11:31 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
I think I would first be looking at the air filter flaps and their
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
controls or vacuum lines for a leak. These are active on a cold
engine. The EGR even has a thermostat inside the air filter.
Second I would be checking the carb's base screws to be sure the carb is
bolted down tight.
Third I would be looking really close at the choke vacuum pull off
valve. It is on the back corner of the carb with a vacuum line running
to it. I would want to make sure it isn't leaking.
You can carefully spray some carb cleaner or WD40 along the carb base
and along the intake manifold gasket to check for leaks. If the engine
rumbles when you spray, you have a leak.
Besides the noise, your carb sounds like the typical automatic choke
issue. The thing is on a bimetal spring timer that doesn't care how
warm the engine actually is so when the engine is half way warm, the
choke is open too much so it bogs like mad. You have to feather the gas
pedal up and down to keep it running under load and 2 foot drive them.
You 'can' adjust the choke for how rich it runs until it opens by
loosening the three screws on the cover and turning it. It has indexing
lines on it. Unless the carb number is 8349 or 8351, it should be 1
notch rich. Or you can go manual choke easily.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Deano wrote:
>
> I know a few other folks have posted other cold-related issues and
> received lost of responses, but none seemed to match quite right.
>
> 86 cj7 258, carter bbd, nutter bypass
>
> I am trying to figure out if there could be a relationship between a
> very loud whistling (a vacuum leak I haven't found yet) and some
> serious sluggishness while the engine is cold. It was 15 or 18 degrees
> this morning (-10C) and it exhibited the typical symptoms. Starts and
> idles perfectly and in fact runs great for the first 2-3 minutes. Then
> the whistling starts and with the whistling comes a huge bogging issue
> under any load at all. I believe the only delayed vacuum line should
> be the thermal vacuum switch that purges the canister and controls the
> EGR. I know it is not the EGR as it blocked off. Anyone else hearing
> something familiar or following the train of thought here? Could a
> vacuum leak cause a serious bogging issue until warm and then go away?.
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on this.
>
> Thanks
12-08-2006, 09:15 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
12-08-2006, 09:15 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
12-08-2006, 09:15 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cold start sluggishness
Blocking off the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve, isn't really a
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.
bad idea, I use a plug hidden inside the vacuum hose and a plate under
the valves. Upon inspection it just must look as though it works, it
isn't actually tested: http://www.----------.com/smog.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Micah wrote:
>
> What do you mean the EGR is "blocked off"... EGR system is fairly
> crucial, disconnecting it can cause a lot of problems. I've never
> tried it though, so I don't know what happens when you do... quick look
> at the haynes troubleshooting section under "Engine Lacks Power"...
> suggestion #10 there is "EGR system not functioning properly." Hook
> the EGR system up the way it's supposed to be and see what happens.