The clutch saga
03-14-2007, 10:28 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The clutch saga
On Mar 8, 11:35 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like you're bleeding wrong. Have someone pump the pedal, then have
> them hold it down. Crack the bleeder and let it spray out. Close it before
> the flow stops to prevent air from going back in. Try that a few times and
> see if that helps.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173052347.488235.67740@c51g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
> >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
> >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
> >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do
> >> a
> >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
> >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I
> >> sometimes
> >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad,
> >> and
> >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
> >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
> >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
> >> sometimes.
>
> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
> >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
> >> case.
>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com>
>
> > I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I
> > noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold
> > the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out.
> > However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in.
> > This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles
> > rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles
> > also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something
> > wrong now or does this sound like a component failure?
What I ended up doing in the end (after trying everything I could
think of and that was suggested) was getting a speed bleeder and
combined that with the mityvac to suck air out of the bleeder port.
I cranked up the pressure to 15 psi, slightly opened the bleed port,
and slowly cycled the pedal with half strokes. The clutch is very
firm right now and staying that way. I believe it is bled well to
this point.
I just drove it around for half an hour and I only experienced a tough
shift one time. It was when I heard the rattling metal like sound
(see above post about that). As soon as it happened I pushed on the
pedal and it did not engage as early in the pedal stroke and the
tranny was stuck in gear. I let off the clutch, waited a couple of
seconds, and pressed the clutch again and it was firm again and it
shifted just fine. I think I am changing my mind on where the rattle
is. I believe it is where the clutch line and bleeder line exit the
bell housing. Its hard to stick your head by the pedals when you are
driving and the clutch wont release, but I tried and it sounds like it
is originating from that area. I tightened the hose down along the
firewall and of course it does not rattle nearly the same now. There
was a rubber grommet of some sort where the hoses exited the housing
when I tore it down, and that was the one part I was missing when I
put it back together. I forgot I was missing it during reassembly
because I was tackling getting the cross member bolted back up and
forgot to look for it when I was done. Do you think the lines
rattling there could be causing clutch issues, or something is going
wrong in the system and the line rattling is just an end result of
that? The clutch is very predictable, and will not release, when that
noise occurs but I don't know if not having the rubber piece in there
is a culprit. Ideas?
Also, I am a little worried about the tranny fluid I am using right
now. I am using Mobil 1 synthetic which I believe has additives in it
that are harmful to synchros, but the manual called for a GL5 based
fluid and that is one the part store had. I am thinking about
switching it out after doing seom reading, but I do not know what to
switch to. There are a variety of opinions out there. Any
suggestions on that?
Thanks guys for the help.
Will
> Sounds like you're bleeding wrong. Have someone pump the pedal, then have
> them hold it down. Crack the bleeder and let it spray out. Close it before
> the flow stops to prevent air from going back in. Try that a few times and
> see if that helps.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173052347.488235.67740@c51g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
> >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
> >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
> >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do
> >> a
> >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
> >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I
> >> sometimes
> >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad,
> >> and
> >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
> >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
> >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
> >> sometimes.
>
> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
> >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
> >> case.
>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com>
>
> > I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I
> > noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold
> > the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out.
> > However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in.
> > This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles
> > rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles
> > also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something
> > wrong now or does this sound like a component failure?
What I ended up doing in the end (after trying everything I could
think of and that was suggested) was getting a speed bleeder and
combined that with the mityvac to suck air out of the bleeder port.
I cranked up the pressure to 15 psi, slightly opened the bleed port,
and slowly cycled the pedal with half strokes. The clutch is very
firm right now and staying that way. I believe it is bled well to
this point.
I just drove it around for half an hour and I only experienced a tough
shift one time. It was when I heard the rattling metal like sound
(see above post about that). As soon as it happened I pushed on the
pedal and it did not engage as early in the pedal stroke and the
tranny was stuck in gear. I let off the clutch, waited a couple of
seconds, and pressed the clutch again and it was firm again and it
shifted just fine. I think I am changing my mind on where the rattle
is. I believe it is where the clutch line and bleeder line exit the
bell housing. Its hard to stick your head by the pedals when you are
driving and the clutch wont release, but I tried and it sounds like it
is originating from that area. I tightened the hose down along the
firewall and of course it does not rattle nearly the same now. There
was a rubber grommet of some sort where the hoses exited the housing
when I tore it down, and that was the one part I was missing when I
put it back together. I forgot I was missing it during reassembly
because I was tackling getting the cross member bolted back up and
forgot to look for it when I was done. Do you think the lines
rattling there could be causing clutch issues, or something is going
wrong in the system and the line rattling is just an end result of
that? The clutch is very predictable, and will not release, when that
noise occurs but I don't know if not having the rubber piece in there
is a culprit. Ideas?
Also, I am a little worried about the tranny fluid I am using right
now. I am using Mobil 1 synthetic which I believe has additives in it
that are harmful to synchros, but the manual called for a GL5 based
fluid and that is one the part store had. I am thinking about
switching it out after doing seom reading, but I do not know what to
switch to. There are a variety of opinions out there. Any
suggestions on that?
Thanks guys for the help.
Will
03-14-2007, 10:28 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The clutch saga
On Mar 8, 11:35 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like you're bleeding wrong. Have someone pump the pedal, then have
> them hold it down. Crack the bleeder and let it spray out. Close it before
> the flow stops to prevent air from going back in. Try that a few times and
> see if that helps.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173052347.488235.67740@c51g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
> >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
> >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
> >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do
> >> a
> >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
> >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I
> >> sometimes
> >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad,
> >> and
> >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
> >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
> >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
> >> sometimes.
>
> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
> >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
> >> case.
>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com>
>
> > I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I
> > noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold
> > the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out.
> > However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in.
> > This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles
> > rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles
> > also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something
> > wrong now or does this sound like a component failure?
What I ended up doing in the end (after trying everything I could
think of and that was suggested) was getting a speed bleeder and
combined that with the mityvac to suck air out of the bleeder port.
I cranked up the pressure to 15 psi, slightly opened the bleed port,
and slowly cycled the pedal with half strokes. The clutch is very
firm right now and staying that way. I believe it is bled well to
this point.
I just drove it around for half an hour and I only experienced a tough
shift one time. It was when I heard the rattling metal like sound
(see above post about that). As soon as it happened I pushed on the
pedal and it did not engage as early in the pedal stroke and the
tranny was stuck in gear. I let off the clutch, waited a couple of
seconds, and pressed the clutch again and it was firm again and it
shifted just fine. I think I am changing my mind on where the rattle
is. I believe it is where the clutch line and bleeder line exit the
bell housing. Its hard to stick your head by the pedals when you are
driving and the clutch wont release, but I tried and it sounds like it
is originating from that area. I tightened the hose down along the
firewall and of course it does not rattle nearly the same now. There
was a rubber grommet of some sort where the hoses exited the housing
when I tore it down, and that was the one part I was missing when I
put it back together. I forgot I was missing it during reassembly
because I was tackling getting the cross member bolted back up and
forgot to look for it when I was done. Do you think the lines
rattling there could be causing clutch issues, or something is going
wrong in the system and the line rattling is just an end result of
that? The clutch is very predictable, and will not release, when that
noise occurs but I don't know if not having the rubber piece in there
is a culprit. Ideas?
Also, I am a little worried about the tranny fluid I am using right
now. I am using Mobil 1 synthetic which I believe has additives in it
that are harmful to synchros, but the manual called for a GL5 based
fluid and that is one the part store had. I am thinking about
switching it out after doing seom reading, but I do not know what to
switch to. There are a variety of opinions out there. Any
suggestions on that?
Thanks guys for the help.
Will
> Sounds like you're bleeding wrong. Have someone pump the pedal, then have
> them hold it down. Crack the bleeder and let it spray out. Close it before
> the flow stops to prevent air from going back in. Try that a few times and
> see if that helps.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173052347.488235.67740@c51g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
> >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
> >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
> >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do
> >> a
> >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
> >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I
> >> sometimes
> >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad,
> >> and
> >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
> >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
> >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
> >> sometimes.
>
> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
> >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
> >> case.
>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com>
>
> > I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I
> > noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold
> > the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out.
> > However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in.
> > This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles
> > rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles
> > also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something
> > wrong now or does this sound like a component failure?
What I ended up doing in the end (after trying everything I could
think of and that was suggested) was getting a speed bleeder and
combined that with the mityvac to suck air out of the bleeder port.
I cranked up the pressure to 15 psi, slightly opened the bleed port,
and slowly cycled the pedal with half strokes. The clutch is very
firm right now and staying that way. I believe it is bled well to
this point.
I just drove it around for half an hour and I only experienced a tough
shift one time. It was when I heard the rattling metal like sound
(see above post about that). As soon as it happened I pushed on the
pedal and it did not engage as early in the pedal stroke and the
tranny was stuck in gear. I let off the clutch, waited a couple of
seconds, and pressed the clutch again and it was firm again and it
shifted just fine. I think I am changing my mind on where the rattle
is. I believe it is where the clutch line and bleeder line exit the
bell housing. Its hard to stick your head by the pedals when you are
driving and the clutch wont release, but I tried and it sounds like it
is originating from that area. I tightened the hose down along the
firewall and of course it does not rattle nearly the same now. There
was a rubber grommet of some sort where the hoses exited the housing
when I tore it down, and that was the one part I was missing when I
put it back together. I forgot I was missing it during reassembly
because I was tackling getting the cross member bolted back up and
forgot to look for it when I was done. Do you think the lines
rattling there could be causing clutch issues, or something is going
wrong in the system and the line rattling is just an end result of
that? The clutch is very predictable, and will not release, when that
noise occurs but I don't know if not having the rubber piece in there
is a culprit. Ideas?
Also, I am a little worried about the tranny fluid I am using right
now. I am using Mobil 1 synthetic which I believe has additives in it
that are harmful to synchros, but the manual called for a GL5 based
fluid and that is one the part store had. I am thinking about
switching it out after doing seom reading, but I do not know what to
switch to. There are a variety of opinions out there. Any
suggestions on that?
Thanks guys for the help.
Will
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