Carl S

Let us know how it goes.

Carl

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
>> pedal
>> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>
>> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>
>> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
>> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
>> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
>> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>>
>> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
>> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
>> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
>> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
>> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
>> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
>> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
>> >> Any ideas?
>>
>> >> Will
>>
>> > Air in the master will act like that.
>>
>> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>>
>> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
>> > be
>> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> last two days. Thanks
>

Carl S

Let us know how it goes.

Carl

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
>> pedal
>> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>
>> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>
>> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
>> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
>> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
>> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>>
>> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
>> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
>> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
>> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
>> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
>> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
>> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
>> >> Any ideas?
>>
>> >> Will
>>
>> > Air in the master will act like that.
>>
>> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>>
>> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
>> > be
>> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> last two days. Thanks
>

Carl S

Let us know how it goes.

Carl

<wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
>> pedal
>> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>
>> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>
>> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
>> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
>> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
>> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>>
>> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
>> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
>> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
>> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
>> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
>> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
>> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
>> >> Any ideas?
>>
>> >> Will
>>
>> > Air in the master will act like that.
>>
>> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>>
>> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
>> > be
>> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> last two days. Thanks
>

wbowlin@gmail.com

On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
> >> pedal
> >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>
> >> HTH
>
> >> Carl
>
> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>
> >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com...
>
> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
> >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
> >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>
> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
> >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
> >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
> >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
> >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
> >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
> >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
> >> >> Any ideas?
>
> >> >> Will
>
> >> > Air in the master will act like that.
>
> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>
> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
> >> > be
> >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> > last two days. Thanks

I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is
what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around
from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the
reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch
pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more
bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the
piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the
slave.

This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding
it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage
until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not
be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues
sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into
this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not
re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm.

I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and
had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder
valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just
enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to
it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in
it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I
made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a
couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no
bubbles).

This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and
let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and
depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this
several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for
a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor
before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear
until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work
OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When
I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that
held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before
permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When
driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the
clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is
also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line,
right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly
different than the original, but not significantly different. I
believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty
rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to
shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I
observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling =
no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way
home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting
to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared
of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it
seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could
cheat up to stop signs and lights.

When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to
wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch
pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled
it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes.

Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to
spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at
this point.

wbowlin@gmail.com

On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
> >> pedal
> >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>
> >> HTH
>
> >> Carl
>
> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>
> >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com...
>
> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
> >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
> >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>
> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
> >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
> >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
> >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
> >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
> >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
> >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
> >> >> Any ideas?
>
> >> >> Will
>
> >> > Air in the master will act like that.
>
> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>
> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
> >> > be
> >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> > last two days. Thanks

I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is
what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around
from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the
reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch
pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more
bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the
piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the
slave.

This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding
it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage
until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not
be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues
sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into
this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not
re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm.

I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and
had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder
valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just
enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to
it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in
it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I
made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a
couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no
bubbles).

This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and
let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and
depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this
several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for
a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor
before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear
until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work
OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When
I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that
held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before
permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When
driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the
clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is
also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line,
right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly
different than the original, but not significantly different. I
believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty
rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to
shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I
observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling =
no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way
home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting
to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared
of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it
seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could
cheat up to stop signs and lights.

When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to
wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch
pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled
it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes.

Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to
spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at
this point.

wbowlin@gmail.com

On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Carl
>
> <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
>
> > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the
> >> pedal
> >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master.
>
> >> HTH
>
> >> Carl
>
> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>
> >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com...
>
> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
> >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own
> >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone...
>
> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having
> >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it
> >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice
> >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine,
> >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I
> >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the
> >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks.
> >> >> Any ideas?
>
> >> >> Will
>
> >> > Air in the master will act like that.
>
> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it?
>
> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to
> >> > be
> >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it.
>
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It
> > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the
> > last two days. Thanks

I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is
what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around
from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the
reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch
pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more
bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the
piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the
slave.

This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding
it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage
until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not
be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues
sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into
this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not
re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm.

I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and
had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder
valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just
enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to
it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in
it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I
made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a
couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no
bubbles).

This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and
let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and
depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this
several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for
a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor
before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear
until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work
OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When
I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that
held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before
permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When
driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the
clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is
also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line,
right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly
different than the original, but not significantly different. I
believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty
rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to
shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I
observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling =
no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way
home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting
to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared
of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it
seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could
cheat up to stop signs and lights.

When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to
wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch
pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled
it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes.

Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to
spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at
this point.

Will Honea

From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a
pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes
had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and
a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
sometimes.

One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
case.


--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

Will Honea

From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a
pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes
had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and
a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
sometimes.

One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
case.


--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

Will Honea

From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a
pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes
had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and
a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
sometimes.

One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
case.


--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

wbowlin@gmail.com

On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the
> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I
> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a
> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no
> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes
> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and
> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the
> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in
> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself -
> sometimes.
>
> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often?
> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your
> case.
>
> --
> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com>

I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced
the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave,
clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend,
replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last
weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of
the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a
bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master
back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it
sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping
against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me.