On this one I had 2 bolts snapped off clean with the other 3 still in
there solid and the hub casing blown in bits hard enough to destroy the
chrome hub cover.

I got really lucky or just determined and managed to get enough of a
ding with a dremil bit as a center punch on one of the snapped bolts so
my little screwdriver managed to back it out 1/16" at a turn. Took 2
beers... ;-)

I do use loctite on them.....

I have heard of the stud and nut approach and I guess I should see about
upgrading the front axles and yokes, the rear is a Dana 44 already.

I did try the 'heavy duty' lifetime solid core u-joints. They were
total garbage, blew the first one within 8 months due mostly to water
contamination. I have 'one' lifetime one left in there out of the 6 I
installed 5 years ago.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Robert Bills wrote:
>
> Re exploding hubs:
>
> The number one reason for exploding hubs is one or more hub bolts
> backing out, which puts incredible force on the others. Try using
> studs and nuts instead of bolts. Easier to torque properly and they
> don't back out.
>
> I discovered this at Moab when I blew two hubs within 1/4 mile. I
> changed to studs the next day and have had no further problems,
> although for peace of mind I later changed to 6-bolt hubs rather than
> the stock 5-bolt hubs used in later CJs.
>
> That being said, stronger hubs will move the point of failure to your
> axle shafts and/or axle u-joints. Rather than use the Warn "fuse,"
> which almost guarantees the necessity for a trail fix on tough terrain,
> I elected to install larger (i.e., stronger) chromoly axle shafts and
> stronger axle u-joints.

 

Hi Robert,
Warn hubs are a weak point, which I use. One of these day I will
adapt the hubs used stock on Ford, and GM. that look like:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm Being spring loaded they are
actually far easier to turn in by hand.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Robert Bills wrote:
>
> Re exploding hubs:
>
> The number one reason for exploding hubs is one or more hub bolts
> backing out, which puts incredible force on the others. Try using
> studs and nuts instead of bolts. Easier to torque properly and they
> don't back out.
>
> I discovered this at Moab when I blew two hubs within 1/4 mile. I
> changed to studs the next day and have had no further problems,
> although for peace of mind I later changed to 6-bolt hubs rather than
> the stock 5-bolt hubs used in later CJs.
>
> That being said, stronger hubs will move the point of failure to your
> axle shafts and/or axle u-joints. Rather than use the Warn "fuse,"
> which almost guarantees the necessity for a trail fix on tough terrain,
> I elected to install larger (i.e., stronger) chromoly axle shafts and
> stronger axle u-joints.

 

Hi Robert,
Warn hubs are a weak point, which I use. One of these day I will
adapt the hubs used stock on Ford, and GM. that look like:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm Being spring loaded they are
actually far easier to turn in by hand.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Robert Bills wrote:
>
> Re exploding hubs:
>
> The number one reason for exploding hubs is one or more hub bolts
> backing out, which puts incredible force on the others. Try using
> studs and nuts instead of bolts. Easier to torque properly and they
> don't back out.
>
> I discovered this at Moab when I blew two hubs within 1/4 mile. I
> changed to studs the next day and have had no further problems,
> although for peace of mind I later changed to 6-bolt hubs rather than
> the stock 5-bolt hubs used in later CJs.
>
> That being said, stronger hubs will move the point of failure to your
> axle shafts and/or axle u-joints. Rather than use the Warn "fuse,"
> which almost guarantees the necessity for a trail fix on tough terrain,
> I elected to install larger (i.e., stronger) chromoly axle shafts and
> stronger axle u-joints.

 

Hi Robert,
Warn hubs are a weak point, which I use. One of these day I will
adapt the hubs used stock on Ford, and GM. that look like:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm Being spring loaded they are
actually far easier to turn in by hand.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Robert Bills wrote:
>
> Re exploding hubs:
>
> The number one reason for exploding hubs is one or more hub bolts
> backing out, which puts incredible force on the others. Try using
> studs and nuts instead of bolts. Easier to torque properly and they
> don't back out.
>
> I discovered this at Moab when I blew two hubs within 1/4 mile. I
> changed to studs the next day and have had no further problems,
> although for peace of mind I later changed to 6-bolt hubs rather than
> the stock 5-bolt hubs used in later CJs.
>
> That being said, stronger hubs will move the point of failure to your
> axle shafts and/or axle u-joints. Rather than use the Warn "fuse,"
> which almost guarantees the necessity for a trail fix on tough terrain,
> I elected to install larger (i.e., stronger) chromoly axle shafts and
> stronger axle u-joints.

 

Hi Robert,
Warn hubs are a weak point, which I use. One of these day I will
adapt the hubs used stock on Ford, and GM. that look like:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm Being spring loaded they are
actually far easier to turn in by hand.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Robert Bills wrote:
>
> Re exploding hubs:
>
> The number one reason for exploding hubs is one or more hub bolts
> backing out, which puts incredible force on the others. Try using
> studs and nuts instead of bolts. Easier to torque properly and they
> don't back out.
>
> I discovered this at Moab when I blew two hubs within 1/4 mile. I
> changed to studs the next day and have had no further problems,
> although for peace of mind I later changed to 6-bolt hubs rather than
> the stock 5-bolt hubs used in later CJs.
>
> That being said, stronger hubs will move the point of failure to your
> axle shafts and/or axle u-joints. Rather than use the Warn "fuse,"
> which almost guarantees the necessity for a trail fix on tough terrain,
> I elected to install larger (i.e., stronger) chromoly axle shafts and
> stronger axle u-joints.

 

Mike, you can get Spicer joints with a solid core that have zerks on
eachof the four caps......they use a blunt nose grease
fitting....neither a needle, nor a standard snap on fitting....similar
to those used on the CTM type joints.

You get the extra strength of the solid core, yet you can still pump
fresh grease through the joints.

Don't have a link....sitting at home on a terrible dial-up connection.
I'll look it up when I get a chance at work.


Paul


Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I did try the 'heavy duty' lifetime solid core u-joints. They were
> total garbage, blew the first one within 8 months due mostly to water
> contamination. I have 'one' lifetime one left in there out of the 6 I
> installed 5 years ago.

 

Mike, you can get Spicer joints with a solid core that have zerks on
eachof the four caps......they use a blunt nose grease
fitting....neither a needle, nor a standard snap on fitting....similar
to those used on the CTM type joints.

You get the extra strength of the solid core, yet you can still pump
fresh grease through the joints.

Don't have a link....sitting at home on a terrible dial-up connection.
I'll look it up when I get a chance at work.


Paul


Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I did try the 'heavy duty' lifetime solid core u-joints. They were
> total garbage, blew the first one within 8 months due mostly to water
> contamination. I have 'one' lifetime one left in there out of the 6 I
> installed 5 years ago.

 

Mike, you can get Spicer joints with a solid core that have zerks on
eachof the four caps......they use a blunt nose grease
fitting....neither a needle, nor a standard snap on fitting....similar
to those used on the CTM type joints.

You get the extra strength of the solid core, yet you can still pump
fresh grease through the joints.

Don't have a link....sitting at home on a terrible dial-up connection.
I'll look it up when I get a chance at work.


Paul


Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I did try the 'heavy duty' lifetime solid core u-joints. They were
> total garbage, blew the first one within 8 months due mostly to water
> contamination. I have 'one' lifetime one left in there out of the 6 I
> installed 5 years ago.

 

Mike, you can get Spicer joints with a solid core that have zerks on
eachof the four caps......they use a blunt nose grease
fitting....neither a needle, nor a standard snap on fitting....similar
to those used on the CTM type joints.

You get the extra strength of the solid core, yet you can still pump
fresh grease through the joints.

Don't have a link....sitting at home on a terrible dial-up connection.
I'll look it up when I get a chance at work.


Paul


Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I did try the 'heavy duty' lifetime solid core u-joints. They were
> total garbage, blew the first one within 8 months due mostly to water
> contamination. I have 'one' lifetime one left in there out of the 6 I
> installed 5 years ago.

 

Mike Romain wrote:
> On this one I had 2 bolts snapped off clean with the other 3 still in
> there solid and the hub casing blown in bits hard enough to destroy
the
> chrome hub cover.
>
> I have heard of the stud and nut approach

That is exactly what happened to mine. Try the studs and nuts. You
will be happy you did.