Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

Plug weld the holes and redrill.
"Highcountry" <highcountry2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171130625.405197.229750@s48g2000cws.googlegr oups.com...
>
> I saw those Bestop versions, goodness they are expensive but would
> most likely be as good or better than the originals! I also saw some
> offered by Omix-Ada which were less expensive. However, not being
> able to actually inspect them in person I am wary of buying something
> useless!
>
> Mine old ones look brand new, but the pivot points are wallowed out
> which lets the seat wobble around too much for my taste. I would be
> paranoid of buying used ones, because when I removed mine from the
> Jeep they appeared to be ok. It takes the weight of the passenger
> and seat to show up the worn pivots!
>
> Thanks for the advice folks, Bruce
>

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

Thanks to all for the options.

Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
down to about 3/8".

I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
want to replace them eventually.

Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
not, what brought you to that step?

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

Thanks to all for the options.

Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
down to about 3/8".

I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
want to replace them eventually.

Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
not, what brought you to that step?

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

Thanks to all for the options.

Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
down to about 3/8".

I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
want to replace them eventually.

Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
not, what brought you to that step?

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

Thanks to all for the options.

Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
down to about 3/8".

I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
want to replace them eventually.

Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
not, what brought you to that step?

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

I did the Fuel injection install as part of an engine overhaul. The install
was very easy and the instructions are clear. I really liked the changes
afterwards, better mileage and performance especially. I wanted to do the
head as well but held off for a while. I'm one of those guys that sometimes
waits for a "deal" to come along. I did and sure enough ran into a head for
$200 if I remember that was completely rebuilt. I did the swap and it really
improved things even more. If I had a stock 258 and was contemplating dong
it again, I would if I lived in California still. Engine swaps in
Commiefornia are real hard to get by the CARB. However, since I now live in
Rude Island, I'd consider doing a swap for a fuel injected chevy 350.
Do I regret it? Hell no. I have a very strong running 6cyl, that will put
some V8's to shame, all with stock parts. If you decide to go that route,
I'll be glad to help.

--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Highcountry" <highcountry2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171200257.793066.230700@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks to all for the options.
>
> Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
> drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
> disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
> mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
> another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
> seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
> the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
> operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
> down to about 3/8".
>
> I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
> it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
> want to replace them eventually.
>
> Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
> would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
> description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
> MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
> not, what brought you to that step?
>
>

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

I did the Fuel injection install as part of an engine overhaul. The install
was very easy and the instructions are clear. I really liked the changes
afterwards, better mileage and performance especially. I wanted to do the
head as well but held off for a while. I'm one of those guys that sometimes
waits for a "deal" to come along. I did and sure enough ran into a head for
$200 if I remember that was completely rebuilt. I did the swap and it really
improved things even more. If I had a stock 258 and was contemplating dong
it again, I would if I lived in California still. Engine swaps in
Commiefornia are real hard to get by the CARB. However, since I now live in
Rude Island, I'd consider doing a swap for a fuel injected chevy 350.
Do I regret it? Hell no. I have a very strong running 6cyl, that will put
some V8's to shame, all with stock parts. If you decide to go that route,
I'll be glad to help.

--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Highcountry" <highcountry2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171200257.793066.230700@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks to all for the options.
>
> Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
> drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
> disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
> mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
> another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
> seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
> the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
> operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
> down to about 3/8".
>
> I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
> it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
> want to replace them eventually.
>
> Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
> would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
> description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
> MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
> not, what brought you to that step?
>
>

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

I did the Fuel injection install as part of an engine overhaul. The install
was very easy and the instructions are clear. I really liked the changes
afterwards, better mileage and performance especially. I wanted to do the
head as well but held off for a while. I'm one of those guys that sometimes
waits for a "deal" to come along. I did and sure enough ran into a head for
$200 if I remember that was completely rebuilt. I did the swap and it really
improved things even more. If I had a stock 258 and was contemplating dong
it again, I would if I lived in California still. Engine swaps in
Commiefornia are real hard to get by the CARB. However, since I now live in
Rude Island, I'd consider doing a swap for a fuel injected chevy 350.
Do I regret it? Hell no. I have a very strong running 6cyl, that will put
some V8's to shame, all with stock parts. If you decide to go that route,
I'll be glad to help.

--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Highcountry" <highcountry2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171200257.793066.230700@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks to all for the options.
>
> Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
> drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
> disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
> mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
> another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
> seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
> the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
> operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
> down to about 3/8".
>
> I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
> it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
> want to replace them eventually.
>
> Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
> would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
> description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
> MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
> not, what brought you to that step?
>
>

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

I did the Fuel injection install as part of an engine overhaul. The install
was very easy and the instructions are clear. I really liked the changes
afterwards, better mileage and performance especially. I wanted to do the
head as well but held off for a while. I'm one of those guys that sometimes
waits for a "deal" to come along. I did and sure enough ran into a head for
$200 if I remember that was completely rebuilt. I did the swap and it really
improved things even more. If I had a stock 258 and was contemplating dong
it again, I would if I lived in California still. Engine swaps in
Commiefornia are real hard to get by the CARB. However, since I now live in
Rude Island, I'd consider doing a swap for a fuel injected chevy 350.
Do I regret it? Hell no. I have a very strong running 6cyl, that will put
some V8's to shame, all with stock parts. If you decide to go that route,
I'll be glad to help.

--
Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles, and a couple more fun tricks.
"Highcountry" <highcountry2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1171200257.793066.230700@h3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks to all for the options.
>
> Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll
> drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever
> disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a
> mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one
> another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and
> seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from
> the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to
> operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped
> down to about 3/8".
>
> I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make
> it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would
> want to replace them eventually.
>
> Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I
> would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the
> description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the
> MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If
> not, what brought you to that step?
>
>

Re: CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
 

I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they
change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it
would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304
completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the
throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I
am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is
great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30"
tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply
full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins
accelerating and builds speed.

The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan
on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000
feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up
for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since
my engine runs perfectly.

Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it
when the time comes.

Thanks, Bruce