I would guess that you have flooded the plugs.

Sometimes they need to be removed to dry out before it will run again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.
>
> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.
>
> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12
> 55
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:MyBpc.50671$Z%5.32467@okepread01...
> > William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> > > Whoops... The site I got the code below was from a YJ site.
> > >
> > > http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/dtc.html
> > >
> > >
> > > I now have found a MPI Kit site (don't know why Hesco doesn't have these
> on
> > > their site)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/trouble.htm
> > >
> > > which says:
> > >
> > > 54 = Distributor sync pickup
> > >
> > > Now, what does this mean? Distributor bad? Can it be fixed?
> >
> > That would be this.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/stator/
> >
> > It can be replaced, just follow the distributor removal
> > procecure back on the main page. You have to remove the
> > pin holding the distributor gear in and pull the shaft to
> > get to the stator.
> >
> > But first.... clean the connector just in case that is the problem.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >

 

I would guess that you have flooded the plugs.

Sometimes they need to be removed to dry out before it will run again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.
>
> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.
>
> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12
> 55
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:MyBpc.50671$Z%5.32467@okepread01...
> > William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> > > Whoops... The site I got the code below was from a YJ site.
> > >
> > > http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/dtc.html
> > >
> > >
> > > I now have found a MPI Kit site (don't know why Hesco doesn't have these
> on
> > > their site)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/trouble.htm
> > >
> > > which says:
> > >
> > > 54 = Distributor sync pickup
> > >
> > > Now, what does this mean? Distributor bad? Can it be fixed?
> >
> > That would be this.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/stator/
> >
> > It can be replaced, just follow the distributor removal
> > procecure back on the main page. You have to remove the
> > pin holding the distributor gear in and pull the shaft to
> > get to the stator.
> >
> > But first.... clean the connector just in case that is the problem.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >

 

I would guess that you have flooded the plugs.

Sometimes they need to be removed to dry out before it will run again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.
>
> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.
>
> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12
> 55
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:MyBpc.50671$Z%5.32467@okepread01...
> > William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> > > Whoops... The site I got the code below was from a YJ site.
> > >
> > > http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/dtc.html
> > >
> > >
> > > I now have found a MPI Kit site (don't know why Hesco doesn't have these
> on
> > > their site)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/trouble.htm
> > >
> > > which says:
> > >
> > > 54 = Distributor sync pickup
> > >
> > > Now, what does this mean? Distributor bad? Can it be fixed?
> >
> > That would be this.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/stator/
> >
> > It can be replaced, just follow the distributor removal
> > procecure back on the main page. You have to remove the
> > pin holding the distributor gear in and pull the shaft to
> > get to the stator.
> >
> > But first.... clean the connector just in case that is the problem.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >

 

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.

The bushing in your distributor shaft is wearing and allowing oil to get up
into the distributor, that's not good, eventually the distributor will start
making a ticking noise and need to be replaced before it up and eats itself.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
A quick and relatively painless job. Also a good opportunity to replace the
cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.

Check to make sure all connectors are back and no pins got bent.
Let the vehicle rest for a while, you may also be flooded.

To tell the car it's flooded, start with the pedal all the way down
then release after cranking a few times. That tells the computer not
to give fuel.

> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12

(battery disconnected within the last 50 starts) ..ignore it unless
it occurs with lots of other codes in which case look for a loose
battery connection. It can't be reset unless you have the DRB Scantool
or do fifty starts. I'm not up to wearing out the starter just to clear
one code. :)

> 55

(end of codes)

--
DougW

 

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.

The bushing in your distributor shaft is wearing and allowing oil to get up
into the distributor, that's not good, eventually the distributor will start
making a ticking noise and need to be replaced before it up and eats itself.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
A quick and relatively painless job. Also a good opportunity to replace the
cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.

Check to make sure all connectors are back and no pins got bent.
Let the vehicle rest for a while, you may also be flooded.

To tell the car it's flooded, start with the pedal all the way down
then release after cranking a few times. That tells the computer not
to give fuel.

> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12

(battery disconnected within the last 50 starts) ..ignore it unless
it occurs with lots of other codes in which case look for a loose
battery connection. It can't be reset unless you have the DRB Scantool
or do fifty starts. I'm not up to wearing out the starter just to clear
one code. :)

> 55

(end of codes)

--
DougW

 

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.

The bushing in your distributor shaft is wearing and allowing oil to get up
into the distributor, that's not good, eventually the distributor will start
making a ticking noise and need to be replaced before it up and eats itself.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
A quick and relatively painless job. Also a good opportunity to replace the
cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.

Check to make sure all connectors are back and no pins got bent.
Let the vehicle rest for a while, you may also be flooded.

To tell the car it's flooded, start with the pedal all the way down
then release after cranking a few times. That tells the computer not
to give fuel.

> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12

(battery disconnected within the last 50 starts) ..ignore it unless
it occurs with lots of other codes in which case look for a loose
battery connection. It can't be reset unless you have the DRB Scantool
or do fifty starts. I'm not up to wearing out the starter just to clear
one code. :)

> 55

(end of codes)

--
DougW

 

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
> Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor
> and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back
> together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into
> the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I
> cleaned that up too.

The bushing in your distributor shaft is wearing and allowing oil to get up
into the distributor, that's not good, eventually the distributor will start
making a ticking noise and need to be replaced before it up and eats itself.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
A quick and relatively painless job. Also a good opportunity to replace the
cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

> Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.

Check to make sure all connectors are back and no pins got bent.
Let the vehicle rest for a while, you may also be flooded.

To tell the car it's flooded, start with the pedal all the way down
then release after cranking a few times. That tells the computer not
to give fuel.

> That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:
>
> 12

(battery disconnected within the last 50 starts) ..ignore it unless
it occurs with lots of other codes in which case look for a loose
battery connection. It can't be reset unless you have the DRB Scantool
or do fifty starts. I'm not up to wearing out the starter just to clear
one code. :)

> 55

(end of codes)

--
DougW

 

In message <swKpc.51828$Z%5.42021@okepread01>, "DougW" wrote:

>William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
>> How do you erase the trouble codes?
>
>Disconnect the battery for about 20-30 min
>and that will cause it to dump everything.

Usually, 20-30 seconds will erase trouble codes.

>
>That also resets the tranny computer and other
>things. For the first few dozen miles you run
>after doing this drive "normally". i.e. don't
>mash the gas, the computer will be fine tuning
>the mix and other things.

The computer is constantly "fine tuning" and updating the adaptive memory. The
best thing to do is to drive it like you drive, and it will adapt to it.

>PS. This is exactly what you have to do if you
>ever replace the header, injectors, or O2 sensor.
>Otherwise the computer can become confused.

The only time the computer gets confused is if it's getting false information,
as it would from a bad sensor. Replacing the sensor is all that is needed, and
the computer will automatically correct for it. The only thing you do when
resetting the computer is change where the computer starts to adjust from, not
where it will end up. It will always adjust. That's it's job.

 

In message <swKpc.51828$Z%5.42021@okepread01>, "DougW" wrote:

>William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
>> How do you erase the trouble codes?
>
>Disconnect the battery for about 20-30 min
>and that will cause it to dump everything.

Usually, 20-30 seconds will erase trouble codes.

>
>That also resets the tranny computer and other
>things. For the first few dozen miles you run
>after doing this drive "normally". i.e. don't
>mash the gas, the computer will be fine tuning
>the mix and other things.

The computer is constantly "fine tuning" and updating the adaptive memory. The
best thing to do is to drive it like you drive, and it will adapt to it.

>PS. This is exactly what you have to do if you
>ever replace the header, injectors, or O2 sensor.
>Otherwise the computer can become confused.

The only time the computer gets confused is if it's getting false information,
as it would from a bad sensor. Replacing the sensor is all that is needed, and
the computer will automatically correct for it. The only thing you do when
resetting the computer is change where the computer starts to adjust from, not
where it will end up. It will always adjust. That's it's job.

 

In message <swKpc.51828$Z%5.42021@okepread01>, "DougW" wrote:

>William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:
>> How do you erase the trouble codes?
>
>Disconnect the battery for about 20-30 min
>and that will cause it to dump everything.

Usually, 20-30 seconds will erase trouble codes.

>
>That also resets the tranny computer and other
>things. For the first few dozen miles you run
>after doing this drive "normally". i.e. don't
>mash the gas, the computer will be fine tuning
>the mix and other things.

The computer is constantly "fine tuning" and updating the adaptive memory. The
best thing to do is to drive it like you drive, and it will adapt to it.

>PS. This is exactly what you have to do if you
>ever replace the header, injectors, or O2 sensor.
>Otherwise the computer can become confused.

The only time the computer gets confused is if it's getting false information,
as it would from a bad sensor. Replacing the sensor is all that is needed, and
the computer will automatically correct for it. The only thing you do when
resetting the computer is change where the computer starts to adjust from, not
where it will end up. It will always adjust. That's it's job.