Brand new '89 YJ
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
against the block to see if I had a spark.
Did you get a multimeter?
With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.
Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
I know no other ways to tell.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Thanks Mike, we actually couldn't find the ignition module to save our
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Thanks Mike, we actually couldn't find the ignition module to save our
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Thanks Mike, we actually couldn't find the ignition module to save our
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Thanks Mike, we actually couldn't find the ignition module to save our
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
lives. Looking at the YJ and CJ Haynes manuals, that seemed to be the
only thing we hadn't checked, but the books never actually told us where
to find the damn thing.
We've done most of those tests and all have come back fine - I need to
try the ohms on the distributor wires tomorrow night.
This is easily the most frustrating repair/troubleshooting I've ever
done because we don't know how the vehicle was acting before it died
and, as is pretty obvious, I don't know much about the ignition system.
Maybe we just should have taken it to a shop, but there aren't any
around that I really trust and I like to at least try to do it myself.
I really appreciate your help.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
> against the block to see if I had a spark.
>
> Did you get a multimeter?
>
> With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
> connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
> key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.
>
> Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
> the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
> You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
> bad pickup coil.
>
> Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
> negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.
>
> You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
> should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.
>
> If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
> located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.
>
> I know no other ways to tell.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Mike,
>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
>> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I
>> can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there
>> is no spark.
>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>
>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas...
>>> If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>
>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>> cleaned.
>>>
>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>
>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>
>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>> the directions imply.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>
>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
>> them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>> directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>