Brand new '89 YJ
02-12-2007, 04:02 PM
#171
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Do you have any gas coming out the carb yet?
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
02-12-2007, 04:02 PM
#172
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Do you have any gas coming out the carb yet?
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
02-12-2007, 04:02 PM
#173
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Do you have any gas coming out the carb yet?
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
It will not go without it or spark.
If you have to go for a new ignition module, stay far away from the
'Wells' unit. I have seen and heard of far too many dead out of the
box. Any other stock one will be fine.
The carb kit should be in the twenty buck range and are easy to get usually.
Mike
The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
> really hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is
> the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick
> with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60
> to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>> be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
>>> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>> cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>>>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>>>> the directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>> wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
>> Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>> Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of
>> the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
02-12-2007, 04:10 PM
#174
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
rotor actually fits the cap.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm really
> hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and I'll
> check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is the
> module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick with
> an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60 to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've replaced
>>> the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground from the
>>> battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can find. I
>>> got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems that
>>> there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>>>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>>>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled them
>>>> out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>>>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>>>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>>>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>>>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>>>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>>>> directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>>>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>. Now
>> have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
>
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
02-12-2007, 04:10 PM
#175
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
rotor actually fits the cap.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm really
> hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and I'll
> check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is the
> module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick with
> an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60 to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've replaced
>>> the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground from the
>>> battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can find. I
>>> got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems that
>>> there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>>>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>>>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled them
>>>> out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>>>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>>>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>>>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>>>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>>>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>>>> directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>>>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>. Now
>> have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
>
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
02-12-2007, 04:10 PM
#176
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
rotor actually fits the cap.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm really
> hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and I'll
> check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is the
> module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick with
> an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60 to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've replaced
>>> the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground from the
>>> battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can find. I
>>> got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems that
>>> there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>>>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>>>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled them
>>>> out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>>>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>>>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>>>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>>>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>>>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>>>> directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>>>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>. Now
>> have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
>
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
02-12-2007, 04:10 PM
#177
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
rotor actually fits the cap.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm really
> hoping that's not the problem.
> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and I'll
> check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left is the
> module. I even checked the ignition switch.
> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just stick with
> an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like from $60 to $300.
> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>
> Will Honea wrote:
>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>
>>> Mike,
>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've replaced
>>> the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground from the
>>> battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can find. I
>>> got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no spark.
>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems that
>>> there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>> Any suggestions??
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>>>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
>>>> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled them
>>>> out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>
>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>>>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>>>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>>>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>>>
>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>>>>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>>>>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
>>>> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>
>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
>>>> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
>>>> directions imply.
>>>>
>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
>>>> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the wire
>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>. Now
>> have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>
>>
>
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
02-13-2007, 12:12 AM
#178
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
The rotor turns, I made sure to check that. I'm pretty sure the rotor
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
02-13-2007, 12:12 AM
#179
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
The rotor turns, I made sure to check that. I'm pretty sure the rotor
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
02-13-2007, 12:12 AM
#180
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brand new '89 YJ
The rotor turns, I made sure to check that. I'm pretty sure the rotor
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
fits the cap - I think my dad actually bought a new one just to make sure.
I'll go back and check everything again before I go buy the module.
Today I saw a sign at Auto Zone saying they do free testing on ignition
modules, among other things - I'm thinking I might as well pull it out
and take it down to them? Would it be worth the effort?
I didn't get to it tonight because I 'finally' got the missing pieces to
my rear shackles, so I put them in. What a pain. Gas tank in the way,
exhaust in the way, rust everywhere - it's interesting how my front is
virtually rust free, but from the muffler back is ugly. And I think
I'll have to take the tip off my exhaust (Gibson, not a rice burner tip
:P) just to get the grease fitting on and to keep it from rattling like
crazy.
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Before you pony up $60 for a new ignition module, meter that coil like
> Mike said. It could also be the sensor in the distributor.
>
> This jeep came to you with no history, right? Humor me, pull the
> distributor cap and make sure the rotor is actually turning and that the
> rotor actually fits the cap.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, The Merg wrote:
>
>> Will, thanks for the additional help. The coil was replaced, so I'm
>> really hoping that's not the problem.
>> I'm going to grab some wires and plugs on the way home from work, and
>> I'll check the ohms on the distributor like Mike said.
>> After everything has been tested and/or replaced, the only thing left
>> is the module. I even checked the ignition switch.
>> Question on the module - is this something worth upgrading or just
>> stick with an OEM? There seems to be a large variety of prices, like
>> from $60 to $300.
>> By the way, the carb kit is something I can pick up at Advance Boys Zone?
>>
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 16:47:08 -0500, The Merg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
>>>> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper
>>>> ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical
>>>> connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to
>>>> be that there is no spark.
>>>> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it
>>>> seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
>>>> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
>>>> Any suggestions??
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it
>>>>>> have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>>>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which
>>>>> can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more
>>>>> gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas
>>>>> when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding,
>>>>> they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood
>>>>> from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way.
>>>>> Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get
>>>>> cleaned.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give
>>>>>> it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is
>>>>>> there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>>>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>>>>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>>>>
>>>>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range
>>>>> and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier
>>>>> than the directions imply.
>>>>>
>>>>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>>>>> ground is screwed up?
>>>>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>>>>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>>
>>> One old trick is to do as Mike suggests and pop a spark plug into the
>>> wire
>>> and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
>>> normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
>>> cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
>>> side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
>>> one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output
>>> <g>. Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control
>>> (what used
>>> to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
>>> cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module.
>>> Mike
>>> explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
>>> find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side
>>> of the
>>> coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing
>>> voltage
>>> you almost certainly have a bad coil.
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>