Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
DougW proclaimed:
> Carl wrote:
>
>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>
>
> Two ways actually.
Make that three
>
> 1) the right way
> 2) the wrong way
3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>expert with a torch.
>>>Al
>>>
>>>
>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>
>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>
>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>
>>>>Mike
>>>
>>>__
>>>Arold "Al" Green
>
>
>
>
> Carl wrote:
>
>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>
>
> Two ways actually.
Make that three
>
> 1) the right way
> 2) the wrong way
3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>expert with a torch.
>>>Al
>>>
>>>
>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>
>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>
>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>
>>>>Mike
>>>
>>>__
>>>Arold "Al" Green
>
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it in
beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on the
end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I could, I
ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get the new bolt
in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get clearance to
get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the front of my
truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic covers for the
headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts (2 per side).
The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn signals, but the
top two are covered.
Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
Clint
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hah. Lon, I'm sold.
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hah. Lon, I'm sold.
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hah. Lon, I'm sold.
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Carl
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j_2dnS_DUqmWfQLYnZ2dnUVZ_vbinZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Only one way to learn, Al.
>>
>>
>> Two ways actually.
>
> Make that three
>>
>> 1) the right way
>> 2) the wrong way
>
> 3) your jackass brother in law's jeep
>
>
>
>>
>>>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
>>>news:to9tp2dn7l3k9gl2q8l7e3ntuf742od034@4ax.com ...
>>>
>>>>Thanks for the info. I guess I will not try it - definitely not an
>>>>expert with a torch.
>>>>Al
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Using an oxygen acetylene cutting torch.
>>>>>
>>>>>The steel will catch on fire and melt before the cast iron does
>>>>>apparently so the high flow of gas going into the dead end hole
>>>>>physially blows the melted steel out of the hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>One Jeep owner kept snapping engine mounts (I think it was because
>>>>>he insisted on using the hardest bolts he could get, which sheared
>>>>>too easy, but that's another thread) and he stated he used the
>>>>>torch to blow the holes clean. He also stated he normally didn't
>>>>>need to chase the threads with a tap.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>
>>>>__
>>>>Arold "Al" Green
>>
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also be
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also be
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also be
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
those bolts pass into the water jacket?
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
>I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
>this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
>
> To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to get
> clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4 bolts
> (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> signals, but the top two are covered.
>
> Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys make
> up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>
