DON'T DRIVE IT UNTIL YOU FIX IT! Redesign/adjust the pedal lever,
booster, and/or master combination!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.

 

Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.


You have air or maybe dead wheel hoses that are ballooning. My bet is
air.

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Was the proportioning valve ever empty of fluid? If so there is likely
a pin in the end of it that needs to be held or pushed depending on
version to lock the guts so you can bleed the air out. If you don't do
this, that valve will never get the air out and work and you can
compress the pedal down if you really push on her.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.


You have air or maybe dead wheel hoses that are ballooning. My bet is
air.

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Was the proportioning valve ever empty of fluid? If so there is likely
a pin in the end of it that needs to be held or pushed depending on
version to lock the guts so you can bleed the air out. If you don't do
this, that valve will never get the air out and work and you can
compress the pedal down if you really push on her.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.


You have air or maybe dead wheel hoses that are ballooning. My bet is
air.

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Was the proportioning valve ever empty of fluid? If so there is likely
a pin in the end of it that needs to be held or pushed depending on
version to lock the guts so you can bleed the air out. If you don't do
this, that valve will never get the air out and work and you can
compress the pedal down if you really push on her.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

My Jeeps brake booster died with only 700km on her.
Was heading out on my first camping trip (mountains in BC near
Hope...awesome).
Luckily I was stuck in a traffic jam on the highway and wasn't going faster
than 15kph.

First thing I noticed was my RPM's kickin up when I hit the brakes and found
I was having trouble stopping.
I actually had to pull myself down with the steering wheel and couldn't
stop. Had to downshift and use the E-brake.
Anyhow, I was close to a dealership and luckily the salesmen were still
around (was 8pm or so).
they were cool enough to give me the loner car for the w/e (damned frickin
NEON car...got teased bad about that!).

anyhow, they fixed it and it was covered, of course. the guy told me that
it reverted to manual brakes....I kinda laughed. I've driven some manual
brakes before and that wasn't what they reverted to....could've stopped
better sticking my foot out the door!



"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:7QF5d.57050$wV.49275@attbi_s54...
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.

 

My Jeeps brake booster died with only 700km on her.
Was heading out on my first camping trip (mountains in BC near
Hope...awesome).
Luckily I was stuck in a traffic jam on the highway and wasn't going faster
than 15kph.

First thing I noticed was my RPM's kickin up when I hit the brakes and found
I was having trouble stopping.
I actually had to pull myself down with the steering wheel and couldn't
stop. Had to downshift and use the E-brake.
Anyhow, I was close to a dealership and luckily the salesmen were still
around (was 8pm or so).
they were cool enough to give me the loner car for the w/e (damned frickin
NEON car...got teased bad about that!).

anyhow, they fixed it and it was covered, of course. the guy told me that
it reverted to manual brakes....I kinda laughed. I've driven some manual
brakes before and that wasn't what they reverted to....could've stopped
better sticking my foot out the door!



"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:7QF5d.57050$wV.49275@attbi_s54...
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.

 

My Jeeps brake booster died with only 700km on her.
Was heading out on my first camping trip (mountains in BC near
Hope...awesome).
Luckily I was stuck in a traffic jam on the highway and wasn't going faster
than 15kph.

First thing I noticed was my RPM's kickin up when I hit the brakes and found
I was having trouble stopping.
I actually had to pull myself down with the steering wheel and couldn't
stop. Had to downshift and use the E-brake.
Anyhow, I was close to a dealership and luckily the salesmen were still
around (was 8pm or so).
they were cool enough to give me the loner car for the w/e (damned frickin
NEON car...got teased bad about that!).

anyhow, they fixed it and it was covered, of course. the guy told me that
it reverted to manual brakes....I kinda laughed. I've driven some manual
brakes before and that wasn't what they reverted to....could've stopped
better sticking my foot out the door!



"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:7QF5d.57050$wV.49275@attbi_s54...
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Physics, booster power on a smaller area equals more pressure. You
> > didn't tell us the pedal hit the floor, you need to bleed.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Erik Litchy wrote:
> >
> >>why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
> >>that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
> >>system, making longer stopping distances?
> >>
> >>or am i confused?
> >>
> >>it does have a single diaphram booster.
>
>
> well it takes a LOT of force to make it hit the floor.

 

Have a look at the MPI brakes site, some good info under thier Tech
Info section, lots more in thier catalog, you can download it as a
PDF.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/


Howard.

On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 13:35:21 GMT, Erik Litchy <erty0@netscape.net>
wrote:

>ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
>all rotors turned
>front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
>rear pads motorcraft like new
>
>master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
>rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
>the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
>equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
>problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
>i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
>system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
>power, only stopping effort?
>
>
>Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
>truck or car?

 

Have a look at the MPI brakes site, some good info under thier Tech
Info section, lots more in thier catalog, you can download it as a
PDF.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/


Howard.

On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 13:35:21 GMT, Erik Litchy <erty0@netscape.net>
wrote:

>ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
>all rotors turned
>front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
>rear pads motorcraft like new
>
>master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
>rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
>the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
>equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
>problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
>i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
>system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
>power, only stopping effort?
>
>
>Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
>truck or car?

 

Have a look at the MPI brakes site, some good info under thier Tech
Info section, lots more in thier catalog, you can download it as a
PDF.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/


Howard.

On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 13:35:21 GMT, Erik Litchy <erty0@netscape.net>
wrote:

>ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
>all rotors turned
>front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
>rear pads motorcraft like new
>
>master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
>rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
>the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
>equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
>problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
>i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
>system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
>power, only stopping effort?
>
>
>Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
>truck or car?