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bad brakes
ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
all rotors turned front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new rear pads motorcraft like new master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty equal and rear is working enough to get hot. problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping power, only stopping effort? Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? Start here, you need the booster to "boost". > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? JoBo |
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? Start here, you need the booster to "boost". > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? JoBo |
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? Start here, you need the booster to "boost". > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? JoBo |
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock' setup.... The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Erik Litchy wrote: > > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock' setup.... The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Erik Litchy wrote: > > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock' setup.... The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Erik Litchy wrote: > > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system. The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the brakets are, double diaphram are about 6". --James "Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system. The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the brakets are, double diaphram are about 6". --James "Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system. The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the brakets are, double diaphram are about 6". --James "Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01... > ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is; > > all rotors turned > front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new > rear pads motorcraft like new > > master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore > rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear > > > the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty > equal and rear is working enough to get hot. > > problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if > i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the > system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping > power, only stopping effort? > > > Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake > truck or car? |
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