bad brakes
09-26-2004, 02:16 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 02:16 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 02:16 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 02:30 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
09-26-2004, 02:30 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
09-26-2004, 02:30 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
> You want a smaller bore in your master cylinder.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
why? the pedal can hit the floor with enough effort without stopping
that quickly. wouldnt a smaller bore master push less fluid into the
system, making longer stopping distances?
or am i confused?
it does have a single diaphram booster.
09-26-2004, 02:34 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I hated the drum brakes in back. the adjusters constantly froze up or
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
09-26-2004, 02:34 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I hated the drum brakes in back. the adjusters constantly froze up or
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
09-26-2004, 02:34 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I hated the drum brakes in back. the adjusters constantly froze up or
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
more stable under braking now.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
>
> The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> setup....
>
> The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
09-26-2004, 03:11 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
Ahh....
Maybe the MC doesn't have enough stroke? or the bore? or more likely
the proportioning valve isn't right for dual disks.
I would be trying to find out what the bore and stroke are for the
rears.
Also drum and disks have different MC's. There is a backflow valve or
something in the one of them. The Jeep drum brake MC will not work on a
disk brake setup.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> I hated the drum brakes in back. the adjusters constantly froze up or
> the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
> everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
> on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
> more stable under braking now.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
> >
> > The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> > setup....
> >
> > The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> > rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> > combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> > 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
Maybe the MC doesn't have enough stroke? or the bore? or more likely
the proportioning valve isn't right for dual disks.
I would be trying to find out what the bore and stroke are for the
rears.
Also drum and disks have different MC's. There is a backflow valve or
something in the one of them. The Jeep drum brake MC will not work on a
disk brake setup.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> I hated the drum brakes in back. the adjusters constantly froze up or
> the cable would break or fall off. sand/dirt would get inside and make
> everything wear out twice as fast. that and I stripped the pinion gear
> on my dana 35. I dont miss it. it has a lot less brake dive and seems
> more stable under braking now.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
> >
> > The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
> > setup....
> >
> > The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
> > rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
> > combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
> > 360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >