bad brakes
09-26-2004, 09:35 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
bad brakes
ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
all rotors turned
front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
rear pads motorcraft like new
master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
power, only stopping effort?
Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
truck or car?
all rotors turned
front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
rear pads motorcraft like new
master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
power, only stopping effort?
Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
truck or car?
09-26-2004, 10:11 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
09-26-2004, 10:11 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
09-26-2004, 10:11 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
Start here, you need the booster to "boost".
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
JoBo
09-26-2004, 11:11 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 11:11 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 11:11 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
Why try and make some unsafe bastardized brake system?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
The Cherokee's have been stopping fine since 1984 with their 'stock'
setup....
The best you can expect with stock is to lock up the front wheels. The
rear wheel will not lock up unless you are almost stopped. The
combination valve does that to prevent rear wheel lock so you don't do
360's down the road anytime you jam on the brakes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Erik Litchy wrote:
>
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 12:26 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 12:26 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
09-26-2004, 12:26 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bad brakes
I am thinking the '89 only had a single diaphram booster. If you could get a
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
double diaphram booster, from like a '95, then it should be a double
diaphram. This will add about 400PSI to your brake system.
The easy way to check for single diaphram/double diaphram is: single
diaphram is about 4.25" from MC mounting surface to the back where the
brakets are, double diaphram are about 6".
--James
"Erik Litchy" <erty0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:tAz5d.29407$He1.21873@attbi_s01...
> ok my setup on my 1989 cherokee is;
>
> all rotors turned
> front pads from carquest they look like raybestos like new
> rear pads motorcraft like new
>
> master cyl from 1979 f150 1 1/16" bore
> rear brakes from 1998 explorer 8.8" rear
>
>
> the proportion valve seems right, as front and rear braking seems pretty
> equal and rear is working enough to get hot.
>
> problem is there just isnt enough stopping force to lock the tires up if
> i wanted. brake pedal is really firm so i dont think theres air in the
> system. booster seems a little weak but that shouldnt effect stopping
> power, only stopping effort?
>
>
> Would stainless brake lines help? maybe a master cyl from a disk brake
> truck or car?
