Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
04-19-2006, 09:40 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
Bummer.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Jeepers wrote:
>
> From online radiator guy,
>
> "I hate to do this and lose a sale, but your best bet would be to seek
> out
> some sort of Baja racing cooling system. We don't carry anything that
> would stand up to the extreme conditions you'll be driving in.
>
> I'd be more than happy to provide you with an OEM 2-core radiator (you
> can't go with a 3-core due to the fan clutch) and all associated
> components.
>
> If I can be of any additional assistance, please let me know.
>
> Mike Gowen
> Account Manager
>
> www.morris4x4center.com"
>
> >
> > Jeepers wrote:
> > >
> > > I was just informed that my fan clutch demands a 2 core, no room for 3rd
> > > core.
> > >
> > > A kludged up version of my old site is back up at:
> > > http://home.fnbnet.net/~moomesa/
> > > new jeep pix as soon as I get them taken and uploaded.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Member AAAAAAAA
> > > American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Jeepers wrote:
>
> From online radiator guy,
>
> "I hate to do this and lose a sale, but your best bet would be to seek
> out
> some sort of Baja racing cooling system. We don't carry anything that
> would stand up to the extreme conditions you'll be driving in.
>
> I'd be more than happy to provide you with an OEM 2-core radiator (you
> can't go with a 3-core due to the fan clutch) and all associated
> components.
>
> If I can be of any additional assistance, please let me know.
>
> Mike Gowen
> Account Manager
>
> www.morris4x4center.com"
>
> >
> > Jeepers wrote:
> > >
> > > I was just informed that my fan clutch demands a 2 core, no room for 3rd
> > > core.
> > >
> > > A kludged up version of my old site is back up at:
> > > http://home.fnbnet.net/~moomesa/
> > > new jeep pix as soon as I get them taken and uploaded.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Member AAAAAAAA
> > > American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 09:40 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
Bummer.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Jeepers wrote:
>
> From online radiator guy,
>
> "I hate to do this and lose a sale, but your best bet would be to seek
> out
> some sort of Baja racing cooling system. We don't carry anything that
> would stand up to the extreme conditions you'll be driving in.
>
> I'd be more than happy to provide you with an OEM 2-core radiator (you
> can't go with a 3-core due to the fan clutch) and all associated
> components.
>
> If I can be of any additional assistance, please let me know.
>
> Mike Gowen
> Account Manager
>
> www.morris4x4center.com"
>
> >
> > Jeepers wrote:
> > >
> > > I was just informed that my fan clutch demands a 2 core, no room for 3rd
> > > core.
> > >
> > > A kludged up version of my old site is back up at:
> > > http://home.fnbnet.net/~moomesa/
> > > new jeep pix as soon as I get them taken and uploaded.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Member AAAAAAAA
> > > American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Jeepers wrote:
>
> From online radiator guy,
>
> "I hate to do this and lose a sale, but your best bet would be to seek
> out
> some sort of Baja racing cooling system. We don't carry anything that
> would stand up to the extreme conditions you'll be driving in.
>
> I'd be more than happy to provide you with an OEM 2-core radiator (you
> can't go with a 3-core due to the fan clutch) and all associated
> components.
>
> If I can be of any additional assistance, please let me know.
>
> Mike Gowen
> Account Manager
>
> www.morris4x4center.com"
>
> >
> > Jeepers wrote:
> > >
> > > I was just informed that my fan clutch demands a 2 core, no room for 3rd
> > > core.
> > >
> > > A kludged up version of my old site is back up at:
> > > http://home.fnbnet.net/~moomesa/
> > > new jeep pix as soon as I get them taken and uploaded.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Member AAAAAAAA
> > > American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 09:54 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
04-19-2006, 09:54 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
04-19-2006, 09:54 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
stock fan.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
04-19-2006, 11:21 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 11:21 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 11:21 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
Brass is looking better.
>
> Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> are also very expensive.
>
> Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> getting a lot more complex.
>
> How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
>
> There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 11:23 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
In article <4446E9C3.F7DFF613@***.net>,
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote:
> I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
> stock fan.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the
MPFI will make up for it.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote:
> I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
> stock fan.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the
MPFI will make up for it.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
04-19-2006, 11:23 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Back after 2 yrs. Radiator question
In article <4446E9C3.F7DFF613@***.net>,
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote:
> I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
> stock fan.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the
MPFI will make up for it.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote:
> I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
> stock fan.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the
MPFI will make up for it.
--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.
