Jeepers

In article <4446E9C3.F7DFF613@***.net>,
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote:

> I recommend using the full five horsepower it takes to power the
> stock fan.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Besides, my plate is full w/o rerouting belts, right now. Perhaps the
MPFI will make up for it.

--
Member AAAAAAAA
American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.

Will Honea

Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.

On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
wrote:

> In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
>
> > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
>
> Brass is looking better.
>
> >
> > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > are also very expensive.
> >
> > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > getting a lot more complex.
> >
> > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> >
> > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
>
>
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.

On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
wrote:

> In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
>
> > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
>
> Brass is looking better.
>
> >
> > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > are also very expensive.
> >
> > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > getting a lot more complex.
> >
> > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> >
> > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
>
>
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.

On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
wrote:

> In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
>
> > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
>
> I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
>
> Brass is looking better.
>
> >
> > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > are also very expensive.
> >
> > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > getting a lot more complex.
> >
> > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> >
> > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
>
>
>


--
Will Honea

Mike Romain

I have 2 different fans here, but they make a pile more. The fans have
different lengths on their shafts.

The 7 blade 'emissions' fan I have comes with a clutch. It's shaft
measures 1.5" and from the front of the clutch to the waterpump it
measures 3 1/4" in total.

I 'use' an 'old fashioned' 4 blade fan with no clutch off a 70's
engine. It's total depth is 1 1/4" from the front of it to the water
pump. That leaves tons of room for an extra core.

However now that you mention it so I just went and measured it, I would
'not' be able to use the clutch fan if I went 3 core. It would hit.

Mike


Jeepers wrote:
>
> In article <4446CF36.6235B1FD@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > There is nothing stopping you from getting a short snout emissions
> > clutch fan that would fit say the V8 engine or you could even go retro
> > with a fixed 4 blade like I run in my 86.
> >
> > Mike
>
> "short snout emissions clutch fan"
> O.K. you got me there, a wha...?
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.

Mike Romain

I have 2 different fans here, but they make a pile more. The fans have
different lengths on their shafts.

The 7 blade 'emissions' fan I have comes with a clutch. It's shaft
measures 1.5" and from the front of the clutch to the waterpump it
measures 3 1/4" in total.

I 'use' an 'old fashioned' 4 blade fan with no clutch off a 70's
engine. It's total depth is 1 1/4" from the front of it to the water
pump. That leaves tons of room for an extra core.

However now that you mention it so I just went and measured it, I would
'not' be able to use the clutch fan if I went 3 core. It would hit.

Mike


Jeepers wrote:
>
> In article <4446CF36.6235B1FD@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > There is nothing stopping you from getting a short snout emissions
> > clutch fan that would fit say the V8 engine or you could even go retro
> > with a fixed 4 blade like I run in my 86.
> >
> > Mike
>
> "short snout emissions clutch fan"
> O.K. you got me there, a wha...?
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.

Mike Romain

I have 2 different fans here, but they make a pile more. The fans have
different lengths on their shafts.

The 7 blade 'emissions' fan I have comes with a clutch. It's shaft
measures 1.5" and from the front of the clutch to the waterpump it
measures 3 1/4" in total.

I 'use' an 'old fashioned' 4 blade fan with no clutch off a 70's
engine. It's total depth is 1 1/4" from the front of it to the water
pump. That leaves tons of room for an extra core.

However now that you mention it so I just went and measured it, I would
'not' be able to use the clutch fan if I went 3 core. It would hit.

Mike


Jeepers wrote:
>
> In article <4446CF36.6235B1FD@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > There is nothing stopping you from getting a short snout emissions
> > clutch fan that would fit say the V8 engine or you could even go retro
> > with a fixed 4 blade like I run in my 86.
> >
> > Mike
>
> "short snout emissions clutch fan"
> O.K. you got me there, a wha...?
>
> --
> Member AAAAAAAA
> American Association Against Acronym Abuse And Also Ambiguity.

Mike Romain

I will second that. I have done a pile of rad repairs on the trail over
the years including fixing a 4" hole dead center where a tree when
through. That holy rad was still in that vehicle years later when it
got sold.

My current rad has been trail fixed a few times too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
> plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
> short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
> rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.
>
> On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
> wrote:
>
> > In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
> >
> > I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> > build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> > clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> > fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> > beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
> >
> > Brass is looking better.
> >
> > >
> > > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > > are also very expensive.
> > >
> > > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > > getting a lot more complex.
> > >
> > > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> > >
> > > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea

Mike Romain

I will second that. I have done a pile of rad repairs on the trail over
the years including fixing a 4" hole dead center where a tree when
through. That holy rad was still in that vehicle years later when it
got sold.

My current rad has been trail fixed a few times too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
> plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
> short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
> rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.
>
> On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
> wrote:
>
> > In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
> >
> > I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> > build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> > clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> > fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> > beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
> >
> > Brass is looking better.
> >
> > >
> > > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > > are also very expensive.
> > >
> > > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > > getting a lot more complex.
> > >
> > > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> > >
> > > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea

Mike Romain

I will second that. I have done a pile of rad repairs on the trail over
the years including fixing a 4" hole dead center where a tree when
through. That holy rad was still in that vehicle years later when it
got sold.

My current rad has been trail fixed a few times too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Brass has one over-riding advantage to me: a propane or map gas torch
> plus a roll of solder will fix just about any problems it develops
> short of complete rot-out. That includes most pinhole leaks from
> rocks and gravel as well as mesquite thorns.
>
> On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 03:21:54 UTC Jeepers <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net>
> wrote:
>
> > In article <ca07$4446e563$48313026$11431@FUSE.NET>,
> > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Ditch the engine driven fan and go with electric. You will save needed low
> > > end horsepower, all that room, and remove the danger that a hard bump will
> > > flex the fan into the radiator when off-roading.
> >
> > I considered this. However with all the mods I've lumped together at one
> > build (rear locking hubs, disc brakes, custom tranny crossmember,
> > clocked and terra low'd transfer case, NV4500, MPFI, lockers, etc.) the
> > fan can wait and I'm going conventional for now. When I actually get the
> > beast on the dirt and work out the kinks, I'll look more carefully at it.
> >
> > Brass is looking better.
> >
> > >
> > > Aluminum radiators are lighter and transfer heat better. First quality ones
> > > are also very expensive.
> > >
> > > Then you add in the electrolytic action when steel and aluminum meet either
> > > in direct metal to metal contact or via the coolant and the choice starts
> > > getting a lot more complex.
> > >
> > > How will you mount it so there is absolutely mo metal to metal contact?
> > > Are you willing to replace coolant annually or sooner?
> > >
> > > There is a reason race cars use them... well... 2 reasons... saved weight on
> > > the nose and cooling capacity. Durability doesn't matter as long as the
> > > cores will last a 500 mile drive one afternoon.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea