L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

This is who he says he is: http://Steve-Garner.com/ Although it's
beginning to act like a used car salesman.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry wrote:
>
> billy do you even read the posts before you respond to them??
>
> He was quite clear in his post what his qualifiactions were..

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

This is who he says he is: http://Steve-Garner.com/ Although it's
beginning to act like a used car salesman.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry wrote:
>
> billy do you even read the posts before you respond to them??
>
> He was quite clear in his post what his qualifiactions were..

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

This is who he says he is: http://Steve-Garner.com/ Although it's
beginning to act like a used car salesman.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry wrote:
>
> billy do you even read the posts before you respond to them??
>
> He was quite clear in his post what his qualifiactions were..

Steve G

What are my credentials? A car enthusiast/hot rodder that went the full
step and became an Interprovincially Certified Journeyman Mechanic in 1974.
I have 15 years in the trade plus 20 yrs combined before and after as a
hobbiest. I did not stand at one bench at a dealership, but practised as a
general practitioner. I overhauled engines, trans, auto and standards,
diffs, front ends, you name it. Repaired AC systems, we rebuilt our own
alternators, starters carbs etc. Farmed nothing out. I restored mid year
corvettes to NCRS standards and judged others in competition. I've probably
replaced more ball joints in my career than you could ever post jpegs of.
I made my living at answering these kinds of questions and one thing that I
learned was to never be so arrogant as to think you have the definitive
answer without fully examining the vehicle. I guess that's why I have so
much difficulty with the kinds of statements you make without even seeing
the car. Yes, I've known lots of hot rodders from the fifties that couldn't
wait to finish their milk route to get home and play in the cars.
BTW, What year did you get your papers and did they come on a roll? You're
right 90% of the time? Bill, Bill Bill. You're estimates are about as
right on as your diagnosis.
I stand by my earlier post. Your sugggestions are at times plausible
possibilities. It's the definitive in your answers that gets you in
trouble.
You neglected to answer my question in the previous posts. What the hell
are these "rollers" you're referring to that are in ball joints?

"It's been my experience that
the 4X4 front end ball joints break inside and the rollers move to one
side and are if anything tighter." Says Bill.
You do know the difference between a ball joint and a universal joint, don't
you?

> Lets wait and see what the poster replies with, I'm betting it's
> another one for me. You might go back through posts and find the follow
> ups posters have given to their questions and see that I'm right ninety
> percent of the time. I have been a Hot Rodder since the early fifties,
> what are your qualifications?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > There's nothing " your Real Jeep" needs from you? There's nothing
anyone
> > needs from you.
> >
> > The problem here is that there are people that may be new to this group
> > that come here without the benefit of hearing how many times you're
> > diagnosis have been shown to be full of ---- and they actually put stock
in
> > what you've posted. Then they go out and buy a new battery and find
that
> > didn't solve their overcharging problem because their regulater wasn't
> > grounded properly or replace a perfectly good balljoint and still find
they
> > can't get enough camber because their axles bent. What the hell are
you
> > talking about "rollers" in a ball joint and breaking inside. I've been
a
> > licensed mechanic since 1974 and have yet to find "rollers" in a ball
> > joint. It's a ball in a socket, hence the name "ball Joint". Yes, they
have
> > been known to pack up with rust, but it's obvious there's a problem
because
> > the boot is torn and you can see the rust. Anyone competant enough to
get a
> > camber reading is competant enough to know a bad balljoint. If you go
back
> > and read the original post he said he can't get enough camber. What the
> > hell does that have to do with bending at the knuckle end. If you bend
the
> > tube up at housing or at the knuckle, or anywhere you want , if the end
> > comes up the wheel will tilt in at the top, negative camber.
> > Bill, you're great at googling and posting picks of who knows what, but
I
> > think you lack the knowledge and experience to be on here posting all of
the
> > "THIS is your problem" answers. It's the arrogance of omitting the "may
be"
> > in your answers that I find personally annoying. Two little words that
turn
> > you from being an asset to an -------.
> > Steve G.

Steve G

What are my credentials? A car enthusiast/hot rodder that went the full
step and became an Interprovincially Certified Journeyman Mechanic in 1974.
I have 15 years in the trade plus 20 yrs combined before and after as a
hobbiest. I did not stand at one bench at a dealership, but practised as a
general practitioner. I overhauled engines, trans, auto and standards,
diffs, front ends, you name it. Repaired AC systems, we rebuilt our own
alternators, starters carbs etc. Farmed nothing out. I restored mid year
corvettes to NCRS standards and judged others in competition. I've probably
replaced more ball joints in my career than you could ever post jpegs of.
I made my living at answering these kinds of questions and one thing that I
learned was to never be so arrogant as to think you have the definitive
answer without fully examining the vehicle. I guess that's why I have so
much difficulty with the kinds of statements you make without even seeing
the car. Yes, I've known lots of hot rodders from the fifties that couldn't
wait to finish their milk route to get home and play in the cars.
BTW, What year did you get your papers and did they come on a roll? You're
right 90% of the time? Bill, Bill Bill. You're estimates are about as
right on as your diagnosis.
I stand by my earlier post. Your sugggestions are at times plausible
possibilities. It's the definitive in your answers that gets you in
trouble.
You neglected to answer my question in the previous posts. What the hell
are these "rollers" you're referring to that are in ball joints?

"It's been my experience that
the 4X4 front end ball joints break inside and the rollers move to one
side and are if anything tighter." Says Bill.
You do know the difference between a ball joint and a universal joint, don't
you?

> Lets wait and see what the poster replies with, I'm betting it's
> another one for me. You might go back through posts and find the follow
> ups posters have given to their questions and see that I'm right ninety
> percent of the time. I have been a Hot Rodder since the early fifties,
> what are your qualifications?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > There's nothing " your Real Jeep" needs from you? There's nothing
anyone
> > needs from you.
> >
> > The problem here is that there are people that may be new to this group
> > that come here without the benefit of hearing how many times you're
> > diagnosis have been shown to be full of ---- and they actually put stock
in
> > what you've posted. Then they go out and buy a new battery and find
that
> > didn't solve their overcharging problem because their regulater wasn't
> > grounded properly or replace a perfectly good balljoint and still find
they
> > can't get enough camber because their axles bent. What the hell are
you
> > talking about "rollers" in a ball joint and breaking inside. I've been
a
> > licensed mechanic since 1974 and have yet to find "rollers" in a ball
> > joint. It's a ball in a socket, hence the name "ball Joint". Yes, they
have
> > been known to pack up with rust, but it's obvious there's a problem
because
> > the boot is torn and you can see the rust. Anyone competant enough to
get a
> > camber reading is competant enough to know a bad balljoint. If you go
back
> > and read the original post he said he can't get enough camber. What the
> > hell does that have to do with bending at the knuckle end. If you bend
the
> > tube up at housing or at the knuckle, or anywhere you want , if the end
> > comes up the wheel will tilt in at the top, negative camber.
> > Bill, you're great at googling and posting picks of who knows what, but
I
> > think you lack the knowledge and experience to be on here posting all of
the
> > "THIS is your problem" answers. It's the arrogance of omitting the "may
be"
> > in your answers that I find personally annoying. Two little words that
turn
> > you from being an asset to an -------.
> > Steve G.

Steve G

What are my credentials? A car enthusiast/hot rodder that went the full
step and became an Interprovincially Certified Journeyman Mechanic in 1974.
I have 15 years in the trade plus 20 yrs combined before and after as a
hobbiest. I did not stand at one bench at a dealership, but practised as a
general practitioner. I overhauled engines, trans, auto and standards,
diffs, front ends, you name it. Repaired AC systems, we rebuilt our own
alternators, starters carbs etc. Farmed nothing out. I restored mid year
corvettes to NCRS standards and judged others in competition. I've probably
replaced more ball joints in my career than you could ever post jpegs of.
I made my living at answering these kinds of questions and one thing that I
learned was to never be so arrogant as to think you have the definitive
answer without fully examining the vehicle. I guess that's why I have so
much difficulty with the kinds of statements you make without even seeing
the car. Yes, I've known lots of hot rodders from the fifties that couldn't
wait to finish their milk route to get home and play in the cars.
BTW, What year did you get your papers and did they come on a roll? You're
right 90% of the time? Bill, Bill Bill. You're estimates are about as
right on as your diagnosis.
I stand by my earlier post. Your sugggestions are at times plausible
possibilities. It's the definitive in your answers that gets you in
trouble.
You neglected to answer my question in the previous posts. What the hell
are these "rollers" you're referring to that are in ball joints?

"It's been my experience that
the 4X4 front end ball joints break inside and the rollers move to one
side and are if anything tighter." Says Bill.
You do know the difference between a ball joint and a universal joint, don't
you?

> Lets wait and see what the poster replies with, I'm betting it's
> another one for me. You might go back through posts and find the follow
> ups posters have given to their questions and see that I'm right ninety
> percent of the time. I have been a Hot Rodder since the early fifties,
> what are your qualifications?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > There's nothing " your Real Jeep" needs from you? There's nothing
anyone
> > needs from you.
> >
> > The problem here is that there are people that may be new to this group
> > that come here without the benefit of hearing how many times you're
> > diagnosis have been shown to be full of ---- and they actually put stock
in
> > what you've posted. Then they go out and buy a new battery and find
that
> > didn't solve their overcharging problem because their regulater wasn't
> > grounded properly or replace a perfectly good balljoint and still find
they
> > can't get enough camber because their axles bent. What the hell are
you
> > talking about "rollers" in a ball joint and breaking inside. I've been
a
> > licensed mechanic since 1974 and have yet to find "rollers" in a ball
> > joint. It's a ball in a socket, hence the name "ball Joint". Yes, they
have
> > been known to pack up with rust, but it's obvious there's a problem
because
> > the boot is torn and you can see the rust. Anyone competant enough to
get a
> > camber reading is competant enough to know a bad balljoint. If you go
back
> > and read the original post he said he can't get enough camber. What the
> > hell does that have to do with bending at the knuckle end. If you bend
the
> > tube up at housing or at the knuckle, or anywhere you want , if the end
> > comes up the wheel will tilt in at the top, negative camber.
> > Bill, you're great at googling and posting picks of who knows what, but
I
> > think you lack the knowledge and experience to be on here posting all of
the
> > "THIS is your problem" answers. It's the arrogance of omitting the "may
be"
> > in your answers that I find personally annoying. Two little words that
turn
> > you from being an asset to an -------.
> > Steve G.

Steve G

What are my credentials? A car enthusiast/hot rodder that went the full
step and became an Interprovincially Certified Journeyman Mechanic in 1974.
I have 15 years in the trade plus 20 yrs combined before and after as a
hobbiest. I did not stand at one bench at a dealership, but practised as a
general practitioner. I overhauled engines, trans, auto and standards,
diffs, front ends, you name it. Repaired AC systems, we rebuilt our own
alternators, starters carbs etc. Farmed nothing out. I restored mid year
corvettes to NCRS standards and judged others in competition. I've probably
replaced more ball joints in my career than you could ever post jpegs of.
I made my living at answering these kinds of questions and one thing that I
learned was to never be so arrogant as to think you have the definitive
answer without fully examining the vehicle. I guess that's why I have so
much difficulty with the kinds of statements you make without even seeing
the car. Yes, I've known lots of hot rodders from the fifties that couldn't
wait to finish their milk route to get home and play in the cars.
BTW, What year did you get your papers and did they come on a roll? You're
right 90% of the time? Bill, Bill Bill. You're estimates are about as
right on as your diagnosis.
I stand by my earlier post. Your sugggestions are at times plausible
possibilities. It's the definitive in your answers that gets you in
trouble.
You neglected to answer my question in the previous posts. What the hell
are these "rollers" you're referring to that are in ball joints?

"It's been my experience that
the 4X4 front end ball joints break inside and the rollers move to one
side and are if anything tighter." Says Bill.
You do know the difference between a ball joint and a universal joint, don't
you?

> Lets wait and see what the poster replies with, I'm betting it's
> another one for me. You might go back through posts and find the follow
> ups posters have given to their questions and see that I'm right ninety
> percent of the time. I have been a Hot Rodder since the early fifties,
> what are your qualifications?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > There's nothing " your Real Jeep" needs from you? There's nothing
anyone
> > needs from you.
> >
> > The problem here is that there are people that may be new to this group
> > that come here without the benefit of hearing how many times you're
> > diagnosis have been shown to be full of ---- and they actually put stock
in
> > what you've posted. Then they go out and buy a new battery and find
that
> > didn't solve their overcharging problem because their regulater wasn't
> > grounded properly or replace a perfectly good balljoint and still find
they
> > can't get enough camber because their axles bent. What the hell are
you
> > talking about "rollers" in a ball joint and breaking inside. I've been
a
> > licensed mechanic since 1974 and have yet to find "rollers" in a ball
> > joint. It's a ball in a socket, hence the name "ball Joint". Yes, they
have
> > been known to pack up with rust, but it's obvious there's a problem
because
> > the boot is torn and you can see the rust. Anyone competant enough to
get a
> > camber reading is competant enough to know a bad balljoint. If you go
back
> > and read the original post he said he can't get enough camber. What the
> > hell does that have to do with bending at the knuckle end. If you bend
the
> > tube up at housing or at the knuckle, or anywhere you want , if the end
> > comes up the wheel will tilt in at the top, negative camber.
> > Bill, you're great at googling and posting picks of who knows what, but
I
> > think you lack the knowledge and experience to be on here posting all of
the
> > "THIS is your problem" answers. It's the arrogance of omitting the "may
be"
> > in your answers that I find personally annoying. Two little words that
turn
> > you from being an asset to an -------.
> > Steve G.

mic canic

jeep offers offset kits for balljoints that might correct the issue if money is
tight but axle replacement is the correct repair

Yellow Fever wrote:

> My wranglers left side front camber reading is -1.4,supposed to be -.09 with
> a range of .4. Other side is normal at -0.8
>
> I need to know how bad this is going to affect the inside tire wear?
>
> All other specs are within range.
>
> Should I worry about replacing that side axle/tube which seems to be
> slightly bent.
> Thanks

mic canic

jeep offers offset kits for balljoints that might correct the issue if money is
tight but axle replacement is the correct repair

Yellow Fever wrote:

> My wranglers left side front camber reading is -1.4,supposed to be -.09 with
> a range of .4. Other side is normal at -0.8
>
> I need to know how bad this is going to affect the inside tire wear?
>
> All other specs are within range.
>
> Should I worry about replacing that side axle/tube which seems to be
> slightly bent.
> Thanks

mic canic

jeep offers offset kits for balljoints that might correct the issue if money is
tight but axle replacement is the correct repair

Yellow Fever wrote:

> My wranglers left side front camber reading is -1.4,supposed to be -.09 with
> a range of .4. Other side is normal at -0.8
>
> I need to know how bad this is going to affect the inside tire wear?
>
> All other specs are within range.
>
> Should I worry about replacing that side axle/tube which seems to be
> slightly bent.
> Thanks