Mike Romain

The ones I have seen broken away were on the inside just behind the roll
bar on the vertical front of the wheel well under the carpet. When
really bad, they tear all along the inside top of the wheel well too

There also was evidence of the tear on the outside up under the front of
the rear wheel well. Hard to see with the tire in the way though.

If they get bad enough, it ends up with someone having to lift up on the
tail light so the door closes easy. (been there, done that, went
'glass)

If someone can lift up on that tail light and the door closes easy,
you/he has a lot of work ahead of him.

Mike

Carlo wrote:
>
> OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet.
> bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from
> Cal State LA to Chico State so most of the time we spend together is doing
> paper work (for school, our house, his new apt, etc), buying books, food -
> yadda, yadda, yadda.
>
> so specifically where & how do I look for the separation? I'm guessing that
> I look around the wheel well (from the outside) - or are we talking about
> from the inside on the floor boards in front of & behind of the side of the
> back seat?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40044DDA.1142D376@sympatico.ca...
> > Ouch....
> >
> > In and out isn't usually a good thing....
> >
> > When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
> > from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
> >
> > Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
> > attention....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing -
> striker
> > > appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out
> thing......but
> > > it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the
> same............I'll
> > > be back.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > > > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen
> it
> > > > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > > > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > > > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > > > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> > > >
> > > > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and
> this
> > > > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > > > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > > > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > > > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack
> welded
> > > > closed once bent back in shape.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carlo wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a
> hefty
> > > pull
> > > > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> > > been
> > > > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap
> on
> > > the
> > > > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I
> figure
> > > that
> > > > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice
> (so he
> > > > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> > > going
> > > > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an
> adjustment. I
> > > > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be
> true?
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > > > O|||||||O
> > > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang

Mike Romain

The ones I have seen broken away were on the inside just behind the roll
bar on the vertical front of the wheel well under the carpet. When
really bad, they tear all along the inside top of the wheel well too

There also was evidence of the tear on the outside up under the front of
the rear wheel well. Hard to see with the tire in the way though.

If they get bad enough, it ends up with someone having to lift up on the
tail light so the door closes easy. (been there, done that, went
'glass)

If someone can lift up on that tail light and the door closes easy,
you/he has a lot of work ahead of him.

Mike

Carlo wrote:
>
> OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet.
> bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from
> Cal State LA to Chico State so most of the time we spend together is doing
> paper work (for school, our house, his new apt, etc), buying books, food -
> yadda, yadda, yadda.
>
> so specifically where & how do I look for the separation? I'm guessing that
> I look around the wheel well (from the outside) - or are we talking about
> from the inside on the floor boards in front of & behind of the side of the
> back seat?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40044DDA.1142D376@sympatico.ca...
> > Ouch....
> >
> > In and out isn't usually a good thing....
> >
> > When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
> > from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
> >
> > Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
> > attention....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing -
> striker
> > > appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out
> thing......but
> > > it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the
> same............I'll
> > > be back.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > > > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen
> it
> > > > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > > > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > > > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > > > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> > > >
> > > > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and
> this
> > > > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > > > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > > > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > > > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack
> welded
> > > > closed once bent back in shape.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carlo wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a
> hefty
> > > pull
> > > > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> > > been
> > > > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap
> on
> > > the
> > > > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I
> figure
> > > that
> > > > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice
> (so he
> > > > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> > > going
> > > > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an
> adjustment. I
> > > > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be
> true?
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > > > O|||||||O
> > > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang

Mike Romain

The ones I have seen broken away were on the inside just behind the roll
bar on the vertical front of the wheel well under the carpet. When
really bad, they tear all along the inside top of the wheel well too

There also was evidence of the tear on the outside up under the front of
the rear wheel well. Hard to see with the tire in the way though.

If they get bad enough, it ends up with someone having to lift up on the
tail light so the door closes easy. (been there, done that, went
'glass)

If someone can lift up on that tail light and the door closes easy,
you/he has a lot of work ahead of him.

Mike

Carlo wrote:
>
> OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet.
> bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from
> Cal State LA to Chico State so most of the time we spend together is doing
> paper work (for school, our house, his new apt, etc), buying books, food -
> yadda, yadda, yadda.
>
> so specifically where & how do I look for the separation? I'm guessing that
> I look around the wheel well (from the outside) - or are we talking about
> from the inside on the floor boards in front of & behind of the side of the
> back seat?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40044DDA.1142D376@sympatico.ca...
> > Ouch....
> >
> > In and out isn't usually a good thing....
> >
> > When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
> > from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
> >
> > Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
> > attention....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing -
> striker
> > > appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out
> thing......but
> > > it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the
> same............I'll
> > > be back.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > > > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen
> it
> > > > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > > > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > > > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > > > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> > > >
> > > > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and
> this
> > > > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > > > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > > > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > > > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack
> welded
> > > > closed once bent back in shape.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carlo wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a
> hefty
> > > pull
> > > > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> > > been
> > > > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap
> on
> > > the
> > > > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I
> figure
> > > that
> > > > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice
> (so he
> > > > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> > > going
> > > > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an
> adjustment. I
> > > > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be
> true?
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > > > O|||||||O
> > > > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang