Adjust YJ door striker
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Ouch....
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Ouch....
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Ouch....
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
In and out isn't usually a good thing....
When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away
from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.
Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some
attention....
Mike
Carlo wrote:
>
> Thanks
> I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker
> appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but
> it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll
> be back.
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4003FFE5.9652A64A@sympatico.ca...
> > LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it
> > with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the
> > outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some.
> > You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and
> > punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.
> >
> > Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this
> > allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with
> > some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually
> > holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone
> > and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded
> > closed once bent back in shape.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Carlo wrote:
> > >
> > > OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
> pull
> > > to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has
> been
> > > merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on
> the
> > > door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
> that
> > > he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> > > could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was
> going
> > > to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> > > checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> > > hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > > O|||||||O
> > > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
well, it can do some serious damage.
"Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:FZOdnfD5F_nSDJ7dRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty
pull
> to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been
> merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the
> door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure
that
> he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he
> could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going
> to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I
> checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large
> hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
>
>
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
They have been for quite some time.
CRWLR wrote:
> Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated
> well, it can do some serious damage.
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adjust YJ door striker
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:%e%Mb.4875$Sf.3957@newssvr24.news.prodigy.com ...
> Left handed BFHs are the only ones that need calibration. Right handed
> BFHs are factory laser calibrated, are digital ready, and liquid cooled.
> They have been for quite some time.
>
You have to be careful with the liquid cooling. Too much of the liquid takes
away from the accuracy of the BFH, and if the BFH is not calibrated well,
then the combination of too much liquid, poor accuracy and bad calibration
makes for serious adjustment errors.