Neoisthe1

>Yep but always check yearly the pH.
>--
>HarryS>

Thanks for the tip Harry, I never heard of using PH , but this makes sense. I
know you can also use a multimeter to check for electrolysis. 300mv and below
is OK. Ground the black lead to the (-) battery terminal and put the read lead
in the coolant. Take a reading with the car off, if it is above 300mv - time
for a flush and new coolant. If it is below 300mv then start the car and let it
warm up. If the reading goes over 300mv, time to flush change the coolant.

Neoisthe1

>Yep but always check yearly the pH.
>--
>HarryS>

Thanks for the tip Harry, I never heard of using PH , but this makes sense. I
know you can also use a multimeter to check for electrolysis. 300mv and below
is OK. Ground the black lead to the (-) battery terminal and put the read lead
in the coolant. Take a reading with the car off, if it is above 300mv - time
for a flush and new coolant. If it is below 300mv then start the car and let it
warm up. If the reading goes over 300mv, time to flush change the coolant.

Neoisthe1

>Yep but always check yearly the pH.
>--
>HarryS>

Thanks for the tip Harry, I never heard of using PH , but this makes sense. I
know you can also use a multimeter to check for electrolysis. 300mv and below
is OK. Ground the black lead to the (-) battery terminal and put the read lead
in the coolant. Take a reading with the car off, if it is above 300mv - time
for a flush and new coolant. If it is below 300mv then start the car and let it
warm up. If the reading goes over 300mv, time to flush change the coolant.