97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
all back together now.
I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
(hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
A very short motion.
When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
the side and it was really stretched open.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
Another view of the carnage.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
"Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> morning. Really odd.
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Tqm wrote:
>>>
>>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
>>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>>> pressure
>>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
>>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>>> Tqm
>
>
out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
all back together now.
I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
(hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
A very short motion.
When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
the side and it was really stretched open.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
Another view of the carnage.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
"Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> morning. Really odd.
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Tqm wrote:
>>>
>>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
>>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>>> pressure
>>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
>>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>>> Tqm
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
all back together now.
I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
(hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
A very short motion.
When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
the side and it was really stretched open.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
Another view of the carnage.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
"Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> morning. Really odd.
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Tqm wrote:
>>>
>>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
>>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>>> pressure
>>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
>>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>>> Tqm
>
>
out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
all back together now.
I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
(hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
A very short motion.
When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
the side and it was really stretched open.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
Another view of the carnage.
http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
"Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> morning. Really odd.
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Tqm wrote:
>>>
>>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
>>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>>> pressure
>>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
>>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>>> Tqm
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
muscle car of the fifties
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tqm wrote:
>
> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine with
> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about $200)
> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case and
> all back together now.
>
> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the factory
> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt. Rainier!).
> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch kicks
> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages around
> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as before.
> A very short motion.
>
> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and kept
> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave up
> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one more
> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>
> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45° from
> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>
> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where the
> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge on
> the side and it was really stretched open.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>
> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>
> Another view of the carnage.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>
> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in the
> > morning. Really odd.
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> Tqm wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken clutch
> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >>> pressure
> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to the
> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >>> Tqm
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
remember it was really strange when that happened.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> muscle car of the fifties
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Tqm wrote:
>>
>> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
>> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
>> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
>> with
>> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
>> $200)
>> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
>> and
>> all back together now.
>>
>> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
>> factory
>> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
>> Rainier!).
>> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
>> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
>> kicks
>> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
>> around
>> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
>> before.
>> A very short motion.
>>
>> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
>> kept
>> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
>> up
>> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
>> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
>> more
>> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
>>
>> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
>> from
>> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
>>
>> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
>> the
>> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
>> on
>> the side and it was really stretched open.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
>>
>> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
>> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
>>
>> Another view of the carnage.
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
>>
>> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
>> > the
>> > morning. Really odd.
>> >
>> >
>> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
>> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
>> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> Tqm wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
>> >>> clutch
>> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
>> >>> the
>> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
>> >>> Tqm
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I would imagine you are correct. The symptom of a throw out bearing
wearing or otherwise going into the pressure plate is a really low
pedal. When the pedal is too high, the clutch is worn out.
The middle high pedal you now have is the correct adjustment likely.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tqm wrote:
>
> I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
> setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
> remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
> I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
> home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
> probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
> wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
> it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
> remember it was really strange when that happened.
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> > Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> > the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> > bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> > muscle car of the fifties
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Tqm wrote:
> >>
> >> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> >> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> >> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
> >> with
> >> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
> >> $200)
> >> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
> >> and
> >> all back together now.
> >>
> >> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
> >> factory
> >> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
> >> Rainier!).
> >> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> >> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
> >> kicks
> >> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
> >> around
> >> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
> >> before.
> >> A very short motion.
> >>
> >> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
> >> kept
> >> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
> >> up
> >> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> >> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
> >> more
> >> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
> >>
> >> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
> >> from
> >> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
> >>
> >> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
> >> the
> >> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
> >> on
> >> the side and it was really stretched open.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
> >>
> >> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> >> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
> >>
> >> Another view of the carnage.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
> >>
> >> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> >> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
> >> > the
> >> > morning. Really odd.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >>
> >> >> Tqm wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
> >> >>> clutch
> >> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >> >>> pressure
> >> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
> >> >>> the
> >> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >> >>> Tqm
> >> >
> >> >
wearing or otherwise going into the pressure plate is a really low
pedal. When the pedal is too high, the clutch is worn out.
The middle high pedal you now have is the correct adjustment likely.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tqm wrote:
>
> I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
> setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
> remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
> I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
> home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
> probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
> wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
> it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
> remember it was really strange when that happened.
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> > Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> > the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> > bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> > muscle car of the fifties
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Tqm wrote:
> >>
> >> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> >> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> >> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
> >> with
> >> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
> >> $200)
> >> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
> >> and
> >> all back together now.
> >>
> >> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
> >> factory
> >> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
> >> Rainier!).
> >> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> >> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
> >> kicks
> >> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
> >> around
> >> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
> >> before.
> >> A very short motion.
> >>
> >> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
> >> kept
> >> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
> >> up
> >> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> >> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
> >> more
> >> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
> >>
> >> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
> >> from
> >> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
> >>
> >> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
> >> the
> >> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
> >> on
> >> the side and it was really stretched open.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
> >>
> >> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> >> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
> >>
> >> Another view of the carnage.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
> >>
> >> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> >> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
> >> > the
> >> > morning. Really odd.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >>
> >> >> Tqm wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
> >> >>> clutch
> >> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >> >>> pressure
> >> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
> >> >>> the
> >> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >> >>> Tqm
> >> >
> >> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 97 TJ 4.0L Clutch Won't Release - Throw Out Bearing Gone?
I would imagine you are correct. The symptom of a throw out bearing
wearing or otherwise going into the pressure plate is a really low
pedal. When the pedal is too high, the clutch is worn out.
The middle high pedal you now have is the correct adjustment likely.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tqm wrote:
>
> I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
> setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
> remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
> I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
> home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
> probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
> wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
> it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
> remember it was really strange when that happened.
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> > Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> > the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> > bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> > muscle car of the fifties
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Tqm wrote:
> >>
> >> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> >> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> >> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
> >> with
> >> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
> >> $200)
> >> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
> >> and
> >> all back together now.
> >>
> >> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
> >> factory
> >> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
> >> Rainier!).
> >> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> >> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
> >> kicks
> >> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
> >> around
> >> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
> >> before.
> >> A very short motion.
> >>
> >> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
> >> kept
> >> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
> >> up
> >> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> >> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
> >> more
> >> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
> >>
> >> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
> >> from
> >> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
> >>
> >> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
> >> the
> >> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
> >> on
> >> the side and it was really stretched open.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
> >>
> >> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> >> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
> >>
> >> Another view of the carnage.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
> >>
> >> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> >> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
> >> > the
> >> > morning. Really odd.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >>
> >> >> Tqm wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
> >> >>> clutch
> >> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >> >>> pressure
> >> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
> >> >>> the
> >> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >> >>> Tqm
> >> >
> >> >
wearing or otherwise going into the pressure plate is a really low
pedal. When the pedal is too high, the clutch is worn out.
The middle high pedal you now have is the correct adjustment likely.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Tqm wrote:
>
> I don't know, my 64 Polara with a max wedge 426 4spd had about the same
> setup. An interesting thing I remember is about 5 years ago on an on-ramp I
> remember pushing my clutch in and it wouldn't completely release the clutch.
> I had to pump the clutch peddle a few times to get it to work. When I got
> home I bled the system and got the feel back to the clutch. (You can
> probably do a search on google on newsgroup and find the old post). I'm
> wondering if it didn't actually spin out then, but finally now just worked
> it's way through the fork from the repeated pressure. Who knows... I just
> remember it was really strange when that happened.
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43CEBF2D.FEBD5F12@***.net...
> > Rotated and fell though. I've never seen that be for. I wonder if
> > the mickey mouse clips were ever attached, although if the bearing were
> > bad it would break them. Too bad it's not designed like a Real Jeep, or
> > muscle car of the fifties
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Tqm wrote:
> >>
> >> I've attached links to some photos of the bad fork from my TJ. The throw
> >> out bearing was still loose and smooth and turned with ease. However, it
> >> was really jammed into the fork. Clutch and pressure plate were fine
> >> with
> >> lots of life remaining. I replaced it all with Napa clutch kit (about
> >> $200)
> >> and a new flywheel exchange. Flushed out the tranny and transfer case
> >> and
> >> all back together now.
> >>
> >> I will say the new Napa pressure plate has a shorter engage than the
> >> factory
> >> (hope this doesn't mean it will slip or fail on the side of Mt.
> >> Rainier!).
> >> Lets say the clutch peddle full travel in total is 1 -10 with 10 being
> >> completely on the floor and 9 being where the clutch ignition switch
> >> kicks
> >> in. The factory clutch disengaged at around 7 and completely engages
> >> around
> >> 2. Now the clutch is disengage at around 4 and engages around 2 as
> >> before.
> >> A very short motion.
> >>
> >> When I first backed it up I pushed the clutch peddle to the floor and
> >> kept
> >> letting the clutch out further and further and further and I about gave
> >> up
> >> on it. For a second I thought oh crap what the heck is this! Then it
> >> grabbed and took off fine. I'll probably bleed the slave cylinder one
> >> more
> >> time to make sure there is no more air in the line.
> >>
> >> The first photo below shows the bearing spun down into the fork out 45°
> >> from
> >> where it should be. Clips probably rusted and gave out.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork1.jpg
> >>
> >> Can see the transmission side of the fork. You can see the slots where
> >> the
> >> clips should be. Also, the fork is wedged open. I put a straight edge
> >> on
> >> the side and it was really stretched open.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork2.jpg
> >>
> >> This is the clutch side of the fork right under the slave cylinder end.
> >> Because the fork was fully engaged the fly wheel ground into it.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork3.jpg
> >>
> >> Another view of the carnage.
> >>
> >> http://home.earthlink.net/~retrojeep...tj%20fork4.jpg
> >>
> >> "Tqm" <tqmfun@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:g_kzf.196$Dk.166@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> >> > All factory, had my jeep since new. I'll post a pick of the fork in
> >> > the
> >> > morning. Really odd.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:43CD860B.F1FDCF69@***.net...
> >> >> Do you think you have an aftermarket high performance pressure
> >> >> plate in it, that would require something stronger?
> >> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >>
> >> >> Tqm wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Well I have part of the job completed and the verdict is a broken
> >> >>> clutch
> >> >>> fork. Seems it folded up under the pressure. Once I get the old
> >> >>> pressure
> >> >>> plate off I'll be able to tell if there was some sort of damage to
> >> >>> the
> >> >>> pressure plate to cause the failure.
> >> >>> Tqm
> >> >
> >> >