Nope, no one makes a puny 9" clutch disk to fit the NV3550 nor AX15:
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/01-040.shtml
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Kapper94" <otten.kap@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1182893374.648153.154630@i38g2000prf.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > You either have a AX5 if it is a 4 cyl or a AX15 if it is a 6 cyl. If
> > syncros are going bad I would opt for a complete rebuilt or swap out.
> > While they are not terrible trannies that are not great ones either.
> > The AX15 is the stronger of the two but still a MD tranny at best.
> > Starting around 2001 Jeep switched over to a NV3550 to replace AX15.
> > The only deferrence between the NV3500 and 3550 is that the 3550 is
> > designed as a direct bolt in replacement for the AX15 while the 3500
> > is not. If you whant to go the swap route you should look into finding
> > a used NV3550 as it is a better tranny than the AX15.
> > -----------------
> > TheSnoMan.com
>
>
> I have the 4cyl. Will the NV3550 be a direct bolt replacement for the
> AX5? I'm beginning to have some buyers remorse.
> Thanks for the help.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Nope, no one makes a puny 9" clutch disk to fit the NV3550 nor AX15:
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/01-040.shtml
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Kapper94" <otten.kap@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1182893374.648153.154630@i38g2000prf.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > You either have a AX5 if it is a 4 cyl or a AX15 if it is a 6 cyl. If
> > syncros are going bad I would opt for a complete rebuilt or swap out.
> > While they are not terrible trannies that are not great ones either.
> > The AX15 is the stronger of the two but still a MD tranny at best.
> > Starting around 2001 Jeep switched over to a NV3550 to replace AX15.
> > The only deferrence between the NV3500 and 3550 is that the 3550 is
> > designed as a direct bolt in replacement for the AX15 while the 3500
> > is not. If you whant to go the swap route you should look into finding
> > a used NV3550 as it is a better tranny than the AX15.
> > -----------------
> > TheSnoMan.com
>
>
> I have the 4cyl. Will the NV3550 be a direct bolt replacement for the
> AX5? I'm beginning to have some buyers remorse.
> Thanks for the help.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Nope, no one makes a puny 9" clutch disk to fit the NV3550 nor AX15:
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/01-040.shtml
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Kapper94" <otten.kap@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1182893374.648153.154630@i38g2000prf.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > You either have a AX5 if it is a 4 cyl or a AX15 if it is a 6 cyl. If
> > syncros are going bad I would opt for a complete rebuilt or swap out.
> > While they are not terrible trannies that are not great ones either.
> > The AX15 is the stronger of the two but still a MD tranny at best.
> > Starting around 2001 Jeep switched over to a NV3550 to replace AX15.
> > The only deferrence between the NV3500 and 3550 is that the 3550 is
> > designed as a direct bolt in replacement for the AX15 while the 3500
> > is not. If you whant to go the swap route you should look into finding
> > a used NV3550 as it is a better tranny than the AX15.
> > -----------------
> > TheSnoMan.com
>
>
> I have the 4cyl. Will the NV3550 be a direct bolt replacement for the
> AX5? I'm beginning to have some buyers remorse.
> Thanks for the help.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

You should have an AX-5 in your buggy, not a bad tranny, should be
plenty of used ones out there. It's the smaller of the two used in the
Wranglers. I've not rebuilt one, so can't comment on any 'gotcha's

If you do get into it, a few general comments: Clean up everything by
going to a self service car wash before starting anything. , The center
cross member has to come out and if the Jeep has been used off road it
will have an inch or more of greasy mud in it. Then clean the OUTSIDE of
the tranny squeaky clean before teardown, much easier to keep the sand
and grit away from sensitive bearings. Consider replacing the clutch
while you have the tranny out. Not very expensive for parts, lots of
labor time.

Kapper94 wrote:
> Hey Roy,
>
> When you say Synchros, are you talking about the synchro rings that
> come in a rebuild kit? Sorry I'm just unfamiliar with the
> terminology.
>
> As for doing it myself in my gerage, I have ordered a repair manual
> that comes on CD and I repair automated equipment for a living, with
> that said are there any special tools or "wish I would have known
> that" issues I would need to know? I am a cheepskate and if I can do
> it myself to save $$$$ then I can't go without trying. Thanks again
> for the help
>
>
>

 

You should have an AX-5 in your buggy, not a bad tranny, should be
plenty of used ones out there. It's the smaller of the two used in the
Wranglers. I've not rebuilt one, so can't comment on any 'gotcha's

If you do get into it, a few general comments: Clean up everything by
going to a self service car wash before starting anything. , The center
cross member has to come out and if the Jeep has been used off road it
will have an inch or more of greasy mud in it. Then clean the OUTSIDE of
the tranny squeaky clean before teardown, much easier to keep the sand
and grit away from sensitive bearings. Consider replacing the clutch
while you have the tranny out. Not very expensive for parts, lots of
labor time.

Kapper94 wrote:
> Hey Roy,
>
> When you say Synchros, are you talking about the synchro rings that
> come in a rebuild kit? Sorry I'm just unfamiliar with the
> terminology.
>
> As for doing it myself in my gerage, I have ordered a repair manual
> that comes on CD and I repair automated equipment for a living, with
> that said are there any special tools or "wish I would have known
> that" issues I would need to know? I am a cheepskate and if I can do
> it myself to save $$$$ then I can't go without trying. Thanks again
> for the help
>
>
>

 

You should have an AX-5 in your buggy, not a bad tranny, should be
plenty of used ones out there. It's the smaller of the two used in the
Wranglers. I've not rebuilt one, so can't comment on any 'gotcha's

If you do get into it, a few general comments: Clean up everything by
going to a self service car wash before starting anything. , The center
cross member has to come out and if the Jeep has been used off road it
will have an inch or more of greasy mud in it. Then clean the OUTSIDE of
the tranny squeaky clean before teardown, much easier to keep the sand
and grit away from sensitive bearings. Consider replacing the clutch
while you have the tranny out. Not very expensive for parts, lots of
labor time.

Kapper94 wrote:
> Hey Roy,
>
> When you say Synchros, are you talking about the synchro rings that
> come in a rebuild kit? Sorry I'm just unfamiliar with the
> terminology.
>
> As for doing it myself in my gerage, I have ordered a repair manual
> that comes on CD and I repair automated equipment for a living, with
> that said are there any special tools or "wish I would have known
> that" issues I would need to know? I am a cheepskate and if I can do
> it myself to save $$$$ then I can't go without trying. Thanks again
> for the help
>
>
>

 

You should have an AX-5 in your buggy, not a bad tranny, should be
plenty of used ones out there. It's the smaller of the two used in the
Wranglers. I've not rebuilt one, so can't comment on any 'gotcha's

If you do get into it, a few general comments: Clean up everything by
going to a self service car wash before starting anything. , The center
cross member has to come out and if the Jeep has been used off road it
will have an inch or more of greasy mud in it. Then clean the OUTSIDE of
the tranny squeaky clean before teardown, much easier to keep the sand
and grit away from sensitive bearings. Consider replacing the clutch
while you have the tranny out. Not very expensive for parts, lots of
labor time.

Kapper94 wrote:
> Hey Roy,
>
> When you say Synchros, are you talking about the synchro rings that
> come in a rebuild kit? Sorry I'm just unfamiliar with the
> terminology.
>
> As for doing it myself in my gerage, I have ordered a repair manual
> that comes on CD and I repair automated equipment for a living, with
> that said are there any special tools or "wish I would have known
> that" issues I would need to know? I am a cheepskate and if I can do
> it myself to save $$$$ then I can't go without trying. Thanks again
> for the help
>
>
>

 

Kapper94 proclaimed:

> On Jun 26, 12:22 pm, RoyJ <spaml...@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>>Make sure you have the proper gear lube in the tranny. Flush and bleed
>>the clutch hydraulic system.
>>
>>If those are OK, you have a problem with the clutch or the tranny. Quick
>>test: put tranny in neutral, clutch out, rev to 1500 rpnm or so. Push
>>the clutch in, wait for 5 seconds, try to put it in reverse (no synchros
>>here). If it goes in quietly, good chance you have bad synchros on 4th
>>gear. $$$$$$ for tranny work. If it grinds the gears going into reverse,
>>the clutch is not disengaging fully. Look at bad master, slave, or
>>clutch plate.
>>
>>Mileage and engine would help.
>>
>>
>
>
> Odometer reads 108k.
> I'll try that tonight. If it acts like the bad Synchros scenario you
> described, is something an average guy could do with a manual in his
> gerage?
>
Not rocket science. You'll want a good jack or some really strong
buddies. If you swap the transmission, might as well redo the clutch
while it is apart. Probably need a pilot tool, some places rent them
but not hard to buy--used to align everything when you put it together
to avoid vibration.

If it is the tranny, see if you can identify the model transmission and
ask here if the old Redline trick might keep it running for a while.

 

Kapper94 proclaimed:

> On Jun 26, 12:22 pm, RoyJ <spaml...@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>>Make sure you have the proper gear lube in the tranny. Flush and bleed
>>the clutch hydraulic system.
>>
>>If those are OK, you have a problem with the clutch or the tranny. Quick
>>test: put tranny in neutral, clutch out, rev to 1500 rpnm or so. Push
>>the clutch in, wait for 5 seconds, try to put it in reverse (no synchros
>>here). If it goes in quietly, good chance you have bad synchros on 4th
>>gear. $$$$$$ for tranny work. If it grinds the gears going into reverse,
>>the clutch is not disengaging fully. Look at bad master, slave, or
>>clutch plate.
>>
>>Mileage and engine would help.
>>
>>
>
>
> Odometer reads 108k.
> I'll try that tonight. If it acts like the bad Synchros scenario you
> described, is something an average guy could do with a manual in his
> gerage?
>
Not rocket science. You'll want a good jack or some really strong
buddies. If you swap the transmission, might as well redo the clutch
while it is apart. Probably need a pilot tool, some places rent them
but not hard to buy--used to align everything when you put it together
to avoid vibration.

If it is the tranny, see if you can identify the model transmission and
ask here if the old Redline trick might keep it running for a while.

 

Kapper94 proclaimed:

> On Jun 26, 12:22 pm, RoyJ <spaml...@microsoft.net> wrote:
>
>>Make sure you have the proper gear lube in the tranny. Flush and bleed
>>the clutch hydraulic system.
>>
>>If those are OK, you have a problem with the clutch or the tranny. Quick
>>test: put tranny in neutral, clutch out, rev to 1500 rpnm or so. Push
>>the clutch in, wait for 5 seconds, try to put it in reverse (no synchros
>>here). If it goes in quietly, good chance you have bad synchros on 4th
>>gear. $$$$$$ for tranny work. If it grinds the gears going into reverse,
>>the clutch is not disengaging fully. Look at bad master, slave, or
>>clutch plate.
>>
>>Mileage and engine would help.
>>
>>
>
>
> Odometer reads 108k.
> I'll try that tonight. If it acts like the bad Synchros scenario you
> described, is something an average guy could do with a manual in his
> gerage?
>
Not rocket science. You'll want a good jack or some really strong
buddies. If you swap the transmission, might as well redo the clutch
while it is apart. Probably need a pilot tool, some places rent them
but not hard to buy--used to align everything when you put it together
to avoid vibration.

If it is the tranny, see if you can identify the model transmission and
ask here if the old Redline trick might keep it running for a while.