Guest

Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41F64EB4.C32F1181@sympatico.ca...
> I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
> didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
> a new bottom end, but it ran.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Doug
> > I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall
into
> > the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> > distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun
began,
> > Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
> >
> > Thanks
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> > shaft..... re
> > > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned
alot
> > about
> > > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> > >
> > > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to
re-index
> > the
> > > distributor.
> > >
> > > > Now have it running
> > > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it
now i
> > have
> > > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> > >
> > > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working
is
> > the
> > > absolute wrong thing to do...
> > >
> > > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or
rod.
> > >
> > > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> > off....
> > > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> > >
> > > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > > 55 (end of codes)
> > >
> > > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make
sure
> > > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> > those
> > > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor
and
> > > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> > >
> > > > Tried to
> > > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be
replacing
> > this
> > > > first, but why no up shift???
> > >
> > > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> > prevent
> > > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> > help
> > > prevent extensive damage.
> > >
> > > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the
bottom
> > > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> > >
> > > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten
connection
> > or
> > > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> > >
> > >

Guest

Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41F64EB4.C32F1181@sympatico.ca...
> I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
> didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
> a new bottom end, but it ran.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Doug
> > I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall
into
> > the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> > distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun
began,
> > Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
> >
> > Thanks
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> > shaft..... re
> > > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned
alot
> > about
> > > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> > >
> > > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to
re-index
> > the
> > > distributor.
> > >
> > > > Now have it running
> > > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it
now i
> > have
> > > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> > >
> > > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working
is
> > the
> > > absolute wrong thing to do...
> > >
> > > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or
rod.
> > >
> > > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> > off....
> > > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> > >
> > > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > > 55 (end of codes)
> > >
> > > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make
sure
> > > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> > those
> > > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor
and
> > > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> > >
> > > > Tried to
> > > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be
replacing
> > this
> > > > first, but why no up shift???
> > >
> > > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> > prevent
> > > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> > help
> > > prevent extensive damage.
> > >
> > > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the
bottom
> > > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> > >
> > > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten
connection
> > or
> > > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> > >
> > >

Guest

Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41F64EB4.C32F1181@sympatico.ca...
> I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
> didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
> a new bottom end, but it ran.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Doug
> > I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall
into
> > the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> > distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun
began,
> > Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
> >
> > Thanks
> > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> > news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> > shaft..... re
> > > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned
alot
> > about
> > > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> > >
> > > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to
re-index
> > the
> > > distributor.
> > >
> > > > Now have it running
> > > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it
now i
> > have
> > > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> > >
> > > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working
is
> > the
> > > absolute wrong thing to do...
> > >
> > > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or
rod.
> > >
> > > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> > off....
> > > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> > >
> > > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > > 55 (end of codes)
> > >
> > > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make
sure
> > > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> > those
> > > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor
and
> > > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> > >
> > > > Tried to
> > > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be
replacing
> > this
> > > > first, but why no up shift???
> > >
> > > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> > prevent
> > > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> > help
> > > prevent extensive damage.
> > >
> > > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the
bottom
> > > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> > >
> > > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten
connection
> > or
> > > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> > >
> > >

DougW

jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
> before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
> looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
> for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
> bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


Checking the TPS sensor is fairly easy if you have a volt meter.

with the key on, engine not running, backprobe the outer two pins
and you should see 5V, keep the neg side connected and backprobe
the center pin. Now slowly open and close the throttle plate.

The resistance should move smoothly with no jumps or drops and range
about 1 to 4 volts, mine measures .748 to 3.8.

If you get some drops, take a few seconds to quickly open and close the butterfly
then try again. Sometimes a crudspot develops and can be wiped off by exercising
the throttle plate.

--
DougW

DougW

jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
> before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
> looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
> for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
> bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


Checking the TPS sensor is fairly easy if you have a volt meter.

with the key on, engine not running, backprobe the outer two pins
and you should see 5V, keep the neg side connected and backprobe
the center pin. Now slowly open and close the throttle plate.

The resistance should move smoothly with no jumps or drops and range
about 1 to 4 volts, mine measures .748 to 3.8.

If you get some drops, take a few seconds to quickly open and close the butterfly
then try again. Sometimes a crudspot develops and can be wiped off by exercising
the throttle plate.

--
DougW

DougW

jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Ok replaced the cam sensor and it fired right up. (took pictures this time
> before i removed the distributor) codes went away except for the 24, I
> looked at the connector for the TPS and it was wet, I am letting it dry out
> for awhile and will try it again. If OBD checks out I will replace the
> bearings this weekend and the oil pump.


Checking the TPS sensor is fairly easy if you have a volt meter.

with the key on, engine not running, backprobe the outer two pins
and you should see 5V, keep the neg side connected and backprobe
the center pin. Now slowly open and close the throttle plate.

The resistance should move smoothly with no jumps or drops and range
about 1 to 4 volts, mine measures .748 to 3.8.

If you get some drops, take a few seconds to quickly open and close the butterfly
then try again. Sometimes a crudspot develops and can be wiped off by exercising
the throttle plate.

--
DougW