recheck the battery cables make sure there is new clean lead showing on them
were they contact the battery posts before anything else is done

Mike Romain wrote:

> Because the idiot light comes on, I would be suspecting the alarm first.
>
> Second I would be suspecting the body ground is dirty or has failed
> because of the 'sometimes' factor. The body can steal grounds through
> things like the gas pedal cable and brake pedal, but it is not
> consistent.
>
> Some 4.0 engines have a mesh strap from the rear of the head to the
> firewall and/or from the engine to the frame across an engine mount, but
> some Jeeps use a negative cable from the battery to the fender for a
> ground.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Casper wrote:
> >
> > My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started having starting issues. At
> > first it would start after 2-3 tries, but now it continually takes
> > longer and longer to get it to turn over. First I thought it was the
> > battery (weak or being drained), but after a full recharge and
> > replacment, the problem persists. Cables appear fine. Jump-starting
> > will help if the battery is weak, but it still takes multiple tries to
> > get it to turn over. This morning, it took 20 minutes and at least 25
> > tries to get it to go from cranking to actually starting. Sometimes
> > during cranking the security light flashes on the dash. Sometimes you
> > hear what sounds like a solenoid(?) clicking when you turn the
> > ignition. Often if you keep turning the ignition on and off until you
> > hear the fuel pump priming(?), then on the next crank attempt, it
> > starts, but not consistantly. I'm suspicious of a short somewhere. Fuel
> > solenoid? Security system? Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

recheck the battery cables make sure there is new clean lead showing on them
were they contact the battery posts before anything else is done

Mike Romain wrote:

> Because the idiot light comes on, I would be suspecting the alarm first.
>
> Second I would be suspecting the body ground is dirty or has failed
> because of the 'sometimes' factor. The body can steal grounds through
> things like the gas pedal cable and brake pedal, but it is not
> consistent.
>
> Some 4.0 engines have a mesh strap from the rear of the head to the
> firewall and/or from the engine to the frame across an engine mount, but
> some Jeeps use a negative cable from the battery to the fender for a
> ground.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Casper wrote:
> >
> > My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started having starting issues. At
> > first it would start after 2-3 tries, but now it continually takes
> > longer and longer to get it to turn over. First I thought it was the
> > battery (weak or being drained), but after a full recharge and
> > replacment, the problem persists. Cables appear fine. Jump-starting
> > will help if the battery is weak, but it still takes multiple tries to
> > get it to turn over. This morning, it took 20 minutes and at least 25
> > tries to get it to go from cranking to actually starting. Sometimes
> > during cranking the security light flashes on the dash. Sometimes you
> > hear what sounds like a solenoid(?) clicking when you turn the
> > ignition. Often if you keep turning the ignition on and off until you
> > hear the fuel pump priming(?), then on the next crank attempt, it
> > starts, but not consistantly. I'm suspicious of a short somewhere. Fuel
> > solenoid? Security system? Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

recheck the battery cables make sure there is new clean lead showing on them
were they contact the battery posts before anything else is done

Mike Romain wrote:

> Because the idiot light comes on, I would be suspecting the alarm first.
>
> Second I would be suspecting the body ground is dirty or has failed
> because of the 'sometimes' factor. The body can steal grounds through
> things like the gas pedal cable and brake pedal, but it is not
> consistent.
>
> Some 4.0 engines have a mesh strap from the rear of the head to the
> firewall and/or from the engine to the frame across an engine mount, but
> some Jeeps use a negative cable from the battery to the fender for a
> ground.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Casper wrote:
> >
> > My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started having starting issues. At
> > first it would start after 2-3 tries, but now it continually takes
> > longer and longer to get it to turn over. First I thought it was the
> > battery (weak or being drained), but after a full recharge and
> > replacment, the problem persists. Cables appear fine. Jump-starting
> > will help if the battery is weak, but it still takes multiple tries to
> > get it to turn over. This morning, it took 20 minutes and at least 25
> > tries to get it to go from cranking to actually starting. Sometimes
> > during cranking the security light flashes on the dash. Sometimes you
> > hear what sounds like a solenoid(?) clicking when you turn the
> > ignition. Often if you keep turning the ignition on and off until you
> > hear the fuel pump priming(?), then on the next crank attempt, it
> > starts, but not consistantly. I'm suspicious of a short somewhere. Fuel
> > solenoid? Security system? Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

(Optima) Battery(s), either old (fully charged) or new, the system
cranks. All cables, ground, etc., have been cleaned, checked and appear
fine.

You can hear the relays clicking when you turn the ignition to the RUN
position, but not the fuel pump, at least not all the time (hearing is
not as it used to be). Connected fuel pressure guage and no pressure
when key is in the RUN position. This should read at least 20 on the
guage. Checked the relays in the engine compartment and they get
voltage(click). Checked relay/fuse compartment and it has voltage.
Checked rear power feed line to the fuel pump (near tank) and no
voltage. My understanding is that 12v should be going to the fuel pump.
If there is 12v at the relay box, but not at the rear junction, then
where else can I check where the power in not passing through? Since
the jeep sometimes starts, then I suspect a short or "open" somewhere
between those two points?? (your input here).

 

(Optima) Battery(s), either old (fully charged) or new, the system
cranks. All cables, ground, etc., have been cleaned, checked and appear
fine.

You can hear the relays clicking when you turn the ignition to the RUN
position, but not the fuel pump, at least not all the time (hearing is
not as it used to be). Connected fuel pressure guage and no pressure
when key is in the RUN position. This should read at least 20 on the
guage. Checked the relays in the engine compartment and they get
voltage(click). Checked relay/fuse compartment and it has voltage.
Checked rear power feed line to the fuel pump (near tank) and no
voltage. My understanding is that 12v should be going to the fuel pump.
If there is 12v at the relay box, but not at the rear junction, then
where else can I check where the power in not passing through? Since
the jeep sometimes starts, then I suspect a short or "open" somewhere
between those two points?? (your input here).

 

(Optima) Battery(s), either old (fully charged) or new, the system
cranks. All cables, ground, etc., have been cleaned, checked and appear
fine.

You can hear the relays clicking when you turn the ignition to the RUN
position, but not the fuel pump, at least not all the time (hearing is
not as it used to be). Connected fuel pressure guage and no pressure
when key is in the RUN position. This should read at least 20 on the
guage. Checked the relays in the engine compartment and they get
voltage(click). Checked relay/fuse compartment and it has voltage.
Checked rear power feed line to the fuel pump (near tank) and no
voltage. My understanding is that 12v should be going to the fuel pump.
If there is 12v at the relay box, but not at the rear junction, then
where else can I check where the power in not passing through? Since
the jeep sometimes starts, then I suspect a short or "open" somewhere
between those two points?? (your input here).

 

(Optima) Battery(s), either old (fully charged) or new, the system
cranks. All cables, ground, etc., have been cleaned, checked and appear
fine.

You can hear the relays clicking when you turn the ignition to the RUN
position, but not the fuel pump, at least not all the time (hearing is
not as it used to be). Connected fuel pressure guage and no pressure
when key is in the RUN position. This should read at least 20 on the
guage. Checked the relays in the engine compartment and they get
voltage(click). Checked relay/fuse compartment and it has voltage.
Checked rear power feed line to the fuel pump (near tank) and no
voltage. My understanding is that 12v should be going to the fuel pump.
If there is 12v at the relay box, but not at the rear junction, then
where else can I check where the power in not passing through? Since
the jeep sometimes starts, then I suspect a short or "open" somewhere
between those two points?? (your input here).

 

One other thought... I'm not very familiar with the security system, so
is it possible it is shutting off the voltage to the fuel pump? So far
as I can tell, the SS seems to be working fine but now that I have more
test info on that, I can test that too if it is tied to the problem. I
was told the only way to turn the SS off is a trip to the dealer and
$$. I would prefer avoiding turning it off/on and keep it on for the
neighborhoods I must frequent. This problem started a few months after
I was rear-ended. Since then the rear (door, bumper and associated) has
been repaired/replaced. Although the damage did not really look bad, I
could not open the rear hatch and there was a small wrinkle in the
frame that was straightened. I am not familiar with the wiring to know
if the SS is connected to anything in the rear that could cause the
voltage to not reach the pump.

 

One other thought... I'm not very familiar with the security system, so
is it possible it is shutting off the voltage to the fuel pump? So far
as I can tell, the SS seems to be working fine but now that I have more
test info on that, I can test that too if it is tied to the problem. I
was told the only way to turn the SS off is a trip to the dealer and
$$. I would prefer avoiding turning it off/on and keep it on for the
neighborhoods I must frequent. This problem started a few months after
I was rear-ended. Since then the rear (door, bumper and associated) has
been repaired/replaced. Although the damage did not really look bad, I
could not open the rear hatch and there was a small wrinkle in the
frame that was straightened. I am not familiar with the wiring to know
if the SS is connected to anything in the rear that could cause the
voltage to not reach the pump.

 

One other thought... I'm not very familiar with the security system, so
is it possible it is shutting off the voltage to the fuel pump? So far
as I can tell, the SS seems to be working fine but now that I have more
test info on that, I can test that too if it is tied to the problem. I
was told the only way to turn the SS off is a trip to the dealer and
$$. I would prefer avoiding turning it off/on and keep it on for the
neighborhoods I must frequent. This problem started a few months after
I was rear-ended. Since then the rear (door, bumper and associated) has
been repaired/replaced. Although the damage did not really look bad, I
could not open the rear hatch and there was a small wrinkle in the
frame that was straightened. I am not familiar with the wiring to know
if the SS is connected to anything in the rear that could cause the
voltage to not reach the pump.