93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start
#131
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#132
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#133
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#134
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#135
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#136
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#137
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
post because this is a text only group.
Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Impact damage changes everything!
Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
gas my ***.
There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
firewall.
I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
flattened wire.
Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
theft issues)
The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
at the pump as well as the relay.
If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
power.
I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
sure the ground is dead.
If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Hope some of this helps.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Since my last post was pretty lengthy, I decided to put my last
> comments in a new post along with a couple of small pictures...
>
> Five are post-accident photos. The damage doesn't appear to be very
> much, but turned out to be over $3500 to date.
>
> One is pre-accident (and clean!). I was actually taking photos that
> particular day of the two spare overhead consoles I have so I could
> put them up on eBay. They will soon go on eBay.
>
> I do not want sympathy, but so you understand the basics of my
> situation, a year ago I was rear-ended and am still having physical
> issues (long boring story here) that make working in some positions
> very painful, which is why I love my neighbor's help!
>
> Yes, the vehicle was the Jeep I am having the start problem with, and
> it's only been since after the accident that this start problem began.
> However the Jeep was repaired. The shop said "bad gas" (crapoline as
> Doug calls it) so since I have freshened the tank.
>
> The worst part is while I was recuperating, my employer replaced me,
> so for now, the budget is really tight until I once again have gainful
> employment. Not having a working sucks, especially to get work.
>
> So, when my neighbor pointed out this group, I jumped at the chance to
> get some Jeep info and hopefully save me some labor hours if I could
> fix things myself. Again, thank you all for all the suggestions!
>
> ~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing>
#138
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
>Mike Romain wrote:
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>
#139
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
>Mike Romain wrote:
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>
#140
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start (0/1)
>Mike Romain wrote:
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>
>Photos usually can't be sent to this group, my server will kill your
>post because this is a text only group.
Sorry, wasn't sure. One day I will have to make a personal web page
for just such things/occasions.
>Your last and this post helped me think about things.
Cool!
>Impact damage changes everything!
That was another suspicion of mine, but I wanted to rule other
potentials out first, if possible.
>Your Jeep wasn't 'repaired' properly, they missed something..... Bad
>gas my ***.
I said the same thing to the guy at the repair place but he didn't
seem to get it. heh..
>There are a mess of small black wires bolted to the engine block usually
>on the passenger side near the dipstick. I would check there for a
>broken wire also. I for sure would do the booster cable trip on the
>body. There might also be a ground inside above the gas pedal on the
>firewall.
I plan to this weekend.
>I do not know where your fuel pump ground is located. The YJ has it on
>the firewall by the emergency brake pedal bracket. I would be looking
>'close' at the wires in the back near the pump for signs of a pinched or
>flattened wire.
I'll ask my neighbor to see what he can see for me.
>Does having your foot on the gas or brake make a difference. (ground
>theft issues)
Nope, not at all.
>The relay to tank connection seems to be one/the issue. If there is
>power at the relay for a second or 2 when the key goes to run, there
>'must' be power at the pump. When you go to start, there must be power
>at the pump as well as the relay.
Everytime we go to test, we get no power, but that's when there is no
"Check Engine" light on either. No voltage when I crank either. Just
been odd luck that the "Check Engine" has been off every time, but
I'll try to get it to come on again over the weekend.
>If the body ground is bad or intermittent, then you are putting the
>meter leads on the body to pump power at the back and you will see no
>power.
Been connecting the leads only to the terminals. Even added paperclips
so they would go into the terminals better.
>I run the booster cable back there from the battery negative for a clean
>ground tag when testing sometimes. If you have power that way, then for
>sure the ground is dead.
Gotcha.
>If no differences, then I would have my finger on that relay when the
>key was turned to see if it clicks every time. If it does, the trouble
>is downstream. I then would pierce the pump power wire just below the
>relay box to see if it has juice coming out of the relay box. I use a
>dab of 'sensor safe' RTV after on the pierce holes. If it doesn't click
>every time, then I might be thinking keyswitch, but.....
Will try this too over the weekend
>Hope some of this helps.
Sure does.. thanks again Mike! :-)
Btw.. I once worked with a Mike Romain at Six Flags. Any relation?
~Casper <Jeepers... it's a Jeep thing!>