'93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
service manual. :)
Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as overheated
it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
I'm running out of ideas.
--
DougW
Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
service manual. :)
Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as overheated
it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
I'm running out of ideas.
--
DougW
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
service manual. :)
Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as overheated
it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
I'm running out of ideas.
--
DougW
Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
service manual. :)
Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as overheated
it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
I'm running out of ideas.
--
DougW
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
>Doug,
>Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base'
>as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
>The stator is in place and appears ok.
>Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
>piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This
>piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
>'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
>signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8004d05d.jsp
>and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the shaft.
>Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave a
>huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
>Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
>Denny
>
I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
shaft.
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks for sticking through this with me Doug.
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks for sticking through this with me Doug.
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks for sticking through this with me Doug.
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the
20K scale and 15.34 on the 200K scale. (Or vice-versa) I'm getting screwed
up here in numbers. So, it appears to me that with todays temp around 50
degrees, I should be getting about 18,000 to 22,000 ohms from your chart.
What am I misreading here?
I'm going to dig out my old analog meter.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FmJb.48638$PK3.604@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
>
> Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up,
> but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now
> understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the
> service manual. :)
>
> Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.
>
> I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature
> sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as
overheated
> it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.
>
> You need to test it with an ohmmeter.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#tempmatrix
>
> One other thing... open up the relay center, remove, clean, and
> reinstall the ASD relay. ASD = Automatic Shut Down. Give it a
> tap with a wrench. The pupose of that relay is to kill your
> engine if something goes terribly wrong. If it fails or sticks
> your jeep will not get voltage to the coil.
>
> As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap
> part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)
>
> I'm running out of ideas.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Heh, thanks Matt.
Lord knows I've never come across 'reluctor' before.
Oh well, I'm about to give up on this old gal for the night. I can't evern
interpret a digital VOM now.
"Matt Osborn" <msosborn@spam_trap@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:odvbvvg907d3n1dvr6etridnktqpq3e2gh@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>
> >Doug,
> >Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the
'base'
> >as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
> >The stator is in place and appears ok.
> >Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
> >piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it.
This
> >piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
> >'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
> >signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...en_us/0900823d
/80/04/d0/5d/0900823d8004d05d.jsp
> >and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the
shaft.
> >Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave
a
> >huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
> >Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
> >Denny
> >
>
> I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
> sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
> shaft.
Lord knows I've never come across 'reluctor' before.
Oh well, I'm about to give up on this old gal for the night. I can't evern
interpret a digital VOM now.
"Matt Osborn" <msosborn@spam_trap@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:odvbvvg907d3n1dvr6etridnktqpq3e2gh@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>
> >Doug,
> >Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the
'base'
> >as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
> >The stator is in place and appears ok.
> >Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
> >piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it.
This
> >piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
> >'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
> >signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...en_us/0900823d
/80/04/d0/5d/0900823d8004d05d.jsp
> >and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the
shaft.
> >Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave
a
> >huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
> >Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
> >Denny
> >
>
> I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
> sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
> shaft.
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Heh, thanks Matt.
Lord knows I've never come across 'reluctor' before.
Oh well, I'm about to give up on this old gal for the night. I can't evern
interpret a digital VOM now.
"Matt Osborn" <msosborn@spam_trap@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:odvbvvg907d3n1dvr6etridnktqpq3e2gh@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>
> >Doug,
> >Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the
'base'
> >as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
> >The stator is in place and appears ok.
> >Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
> >piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it.
This
> >piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
> >'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
> >signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...en_us/0900823d
/80/04/d0/5d/0900823d8004d05d.jsp
> >and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the
shaft.
> >Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave
a
> >huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
> >Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
> >Denny
> >
>
> I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
> sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
> shaft.
Lord knows I've never come across 'reluctor' before.
Oh well, I'm about to give up on this old gal for the night. I can't evern
interpret a digital VOM now.
"Matt Osborn" <msosborn@spam_trap@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:odvbvvg907d3n1dvr6etridnktqpq3e2gh@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 15:14:16 -0600, "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote:
>
> >Doug,
> >Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the
'base'
> >as you say. I called it the plate/cover.
> >The stator is in place and appears ok.
> >Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another
> >piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it.
This
> >piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6
> >'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference
> >signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:
>
>http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...en_us/0900823d
/80/04/d0/5d/0900823d8004d05d.jsp
> >and they refer to it as that. Anyway, it rotates independent of the
shaft.
> >Beautiful day today and I'm about to lose it. The old girl at least gave
a
> >huff or two on bad says. Today it gives no sign of wanting to start.
> >Thanks again Doug. Great page to add to your site by the way too.
> >Denny
> >
>
> I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common
> sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the
> shaft.