'93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
#101
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
#102
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
#103
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
> Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my son
> to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate it's
> okay.
Book says 11,300 - 15,300
You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
> The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at it.
> Am I back to square one?
> Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping appreciably.
That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
that is your problem.
While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
--
DougW
#104
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks Doug,
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#105
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks Doug,
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#106
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
Thanks Doug,
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
right?
I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Thanks all.
Denny
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:TDGJb.51391$PK3.41644@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Nevermind. I've had this coil on my desk staring at me, waitin gfor my
son
> > to take me to the car store. Now I get a 20,300 ohm reading between the
> > tower connector and the primary spade connectors which would indicate
it's
> > okay.
>
> Book says 11,300 - 15,300
>
> You can do a spark check on the Jeep. Put the coil back, and
> disconnect the primary wire off the distributor. Hold it about 1/2"
> from the block and have someone crank the engine. You should get a
> steady arc. Needless to say, watch your fingers, that puppy bites hard.
>
> > The CPS checked okay by the way with infinity between pins B & C.
> > Think I'll take the coil to the car store anyway and have them look at
it.
> > Am I back to square one?
> > Oh, the fuel pressure was good at key on, it held at 32 PSI through
> > cranking. It also held for over an hour now without dropping
appreciably.
>
>
> That's good for fuel pressure, if your jeep was starting then stalling out
> or refusing to accelerate then it might be fuel flow. But I don't think
> that is your problem.
>
> While your checking sensors, check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
> it's on the throttle body across from the linkage
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/tb/tb.html
>
> Turn the ignition to ON (not start) then measure the center terminal.
> It should be 200 milivolts with the throttle closed and no more than
> 4.8 volts with the throttle wide-open. The voltage change should be
> smooth as you open/close the throttle plate.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
#107
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
#108
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
#109
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug,
> Took the coil in and it tested at 14,500 on the secondary.
> Another thing they had me check was for the 8 volts at the CPS connection. I
> get 0 vdc between the black/white and black/blue wire. 0.18 vdc between
> the black/blue and the other wire. SInce I don't have 8 vdc happening there,
> it points to the wiring between the CPS and the PCM, or to the PCM itself
> right?
The PCM feeds 8V to the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position
Sensor. The wire should be White with a Black Stripe
While you have the PCM out.
Disconnect the sensor in the distributor and check between
Pin 7 on the PCM harness and Pin 1 (the White/black wire)
on the CPS connector. There should be near zero resistance.
Also check between either of those pins and the white/black
wire going to the distributor. Those form a T splice that
might have gotten corroded.
> I have the PCM on my desk now. Anything I can check on it?
Not rilly. To check the PCM requires a scantool.
Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
I'll post back when it's done.
--
DougW
#110
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start
> Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
>
> I'll post back when it's done.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/15.jpg
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/16.jpg
Those have to be the wost scans I have ever made. :(
Should be readable though.