Thanks Doug,
I did replace the O2 sensor last Fall.
Dealer advised of the gauge failing some time ago. Temp, sensor was replaced
in the Fall also.
Understand about the speed/cruise solonoid. That's for a later fix.
Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
or message on these locations?
I really appreciate all the help.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:fJfJb.48539$PK3.7277@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> > I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> > I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> > tracking at the time.
> > My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to
believe
> > the engine temp is running normally.
> > The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> > undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> > tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> > So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I
jumper
> > the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only
deal?
> > Thanks.
> > Denny
>
> The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to
replace
> the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was
a
> recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)
>
> If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing
sensor.
> clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can
measure
> the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor
and
> watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
> running while your doing this).
>
> Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work
done.
> O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
> (when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
> Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.
>
> One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
> a ticking noise out of the distributor)
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Thanks Doug,
I did replace the O2 sensor last Fall.
Dealer advised of the gauge failing some time ago. Temp, sensor was replaced
in the Fall also.
Understand about the speed/cruise solonoid. That's for a later fix.
Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
or message on these locations?
I really appreciate all the help.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:fJfJb.48539$PK3.7277@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> > I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> > I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> > tracking at the time.
> > My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to
believe
> > the engine temp is running normally.
> > The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> > undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> > tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> > So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I
jumper
> > the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only
deal?
> > Thanks.
> > Denny
>
> The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to
replace
> the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was
a
> recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)
>
> If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing
sensor.
> clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can
measure
> the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor
and
> watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
> running while your doing this).
>
> Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work
done.
> O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
> (when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
> Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.
>
> One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
> a ticking noise out of the distributor)
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,

No problem. That's one of the things I love
about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
reading this group.

> Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
> or message on these locations?

Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,

No problem. That's one of the things I love
about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
reading this group.

> Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
> or message on these locations?

Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug,

No problem. That's one of the things I love
about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
reading this group.

> Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
> or message on these locations?

Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg

--
DougW

 

Hi Doug, thanks.
Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell.
One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the
distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes'
on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the
reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right
to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right?
However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would
my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not
running at all?
As always, thanks for the ideas.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:m9kJb.2659$zf.1626@okepread05...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug,
>
> No problem. That's one of the things I love
> about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
> of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
> reading this group.
>
> > Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web
site
> > or message on these locations?
>
> Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
> ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
> should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>
>

 

Hi Doug, thanks.
Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell.
One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the
distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes'
on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the
reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right
to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right?
However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would
my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not
running at all?
As always, thanks for the ideas.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:m9kJb.2659$zf.1626@okepread05...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug,
>
> No problem. That's one of the things I love
> about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
> of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
> reading this group.
>
> > Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web
site
> > or message on these locations?
>
> Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
> ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
> should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>
>

 

Hi Doug, thanks.
Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell.
One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the
distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes'
on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the
reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right
to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right?
However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would
my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not
running at all?
As always, thanks for the ideas.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:m9kJb.2659$zf.1626@okepread05...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug,
>
> No problem. That's one of the things I love
> about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots
> of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by
> reading this group.
>
> > Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web
site
> > or message on these locations?
>
> Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a
> ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you
> should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/93i6ground.jpg
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>
>

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug, thanks.
> Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell.
> One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the
> distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes'
> on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the
> reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right
> to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right?
> However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would
> my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not
> running at all?
> As always, thanks for the ideas.

Let me get this right.. you took off the cap and rotor
then removed the two bolts holding the base in there.
The one in this pic.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distr...d-position.jpg

The only electric bit that's in there is the CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor)
...not to be confused with the other CPS, Crankshaft Postion Sensor)
Also called the stator.

The stator should be fixed in position by a couple of plastic pins.
If these seperated you will get problems.

Here is what it looks like. (I made a new page) :)
http://members.***.net/wilsond/stator/

Actually the timing is set by the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) located
on the transmission bell housing. The stator just provides a reference signal.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug, thanks.
> Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell.
> One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the
> distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes'
> on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the
> reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right
> to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right?
> However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would
> my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not
> running at all?
> As always, thanks for the ideas.

Let me get this right.. you took off the cap and rotor
then removed the two bolts holding the base in there.
The one in this pic.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distr...d-position.jpg

The only electric bit that's in there is the CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor)
...not to be confused with the other CPS, Crankshaft Postion Sensor)
Also called the stator.

The stator should be fixed in position by a couple of plastic pins.
If these seperated you will get problems.

Here is what it looks like. (I made a new page) :)
http://members.***.net/wilsond/stator/

Actually the timing is set by the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) located
on the transmission bell housing. The stator just provides a reference signal.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors