DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level


Heh.. and I just noticed that link should say coolant-temp... Oh well,
the sensor is just one down. :) Now to fix my webpage.

--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level


Heh.. and I just noticed that link should say coolant-temp... Oh well,
the sensor is just one down. :) Now to fix my webpage.

--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:

> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level


Heh.. and I just noticed that link should say coolant-temp... Oh well,
the sensor is just one down. :) Now to fix my webpage.

--
DougW

 

Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
tracking at the time.
My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
the engine temp is running normally.
The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
tracking that as I can for awhile too.
So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
Thanks.
Denny

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:zq3Jb.6086$6l1.825@okepread03...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug. Yeah, I guess this does sound most logical.
> > Codes I get 12, 17, 34, 55
>
> 12 - ignore it for now. It just indicates that sometime in the
> last 50 starts you had the battery disconnected.
>
> 17 - Engine did not reach operating temperature within
> acceptable limits. Engine does not reach 20º F. within
> 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.
>
> How's your engine temp? This can be caused by a failed
> thermostat valve, dirty connector on the temp sensor, or
> a bad temp sensor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level
>
> 34 - An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control
> vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input
> below the minimum acceptable voltage.
>
> Never ran into this code before. Related to the cruise control circuit.
> You may get problems caused by vacuum leaks. But that would be more
> along the line of rough idle than no-start.
>
> 55 - end of codes
>
>

 

Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
tracking at the time.
My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
the engine temp is running normally.
The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
tracking that as I can for awhile too.
So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
Thanks.
Denny

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:zq3Jb.6086$6l1.825@okepread03...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug. Yeah, I guess this does sound most logical.
> > Codes I get 12, 17, 34, 55
>
> 12 - ignore it for now. It just indicates that sometime in the
> last 50 starts you had the battery disconnected.
>
> 17 - Engine did not reach operating temperature within
> acceptable limits. Engine does not reach 20º F. within
> 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.
>
> How's your engine temp? This can be caused by a failed
> thermostat valve, dirty connector on the temp sensor, or
> a bad temp sensor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level
>
> 34 - An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control
> vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input
> below the minimum acceptable voltage.
>
> Never ran into this code before. Related to the cruise control circuit.
> You may get problems caused by vacuum leaks. But that would be more
> along the line of rough idle than no-start.
>
> 55 - end of codes
>
>

 

Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
tracking at the time.
My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
the engine temp is running normally.
The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
tracking that as I can for awhile too.
So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
Thanks.
Denny

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:zq3Jb.6086$6l1.825@okepread03...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Thanks Doug. Yeah, I guess this does sound most logical.
> > Codes I get 12, 17, 34, 55
>
> 12 - ignore it for now. It just indicates that sometime in the
> last 50 starts you had the battery disconnected.
>
> 17 - Engine did not reach operating temperature within
> acceptable limits. Engine does not reach 20º F. within
> 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.
>
> How's your engine temp? This can be caused by a failed
> thermostat valve, dirty connector on the temp sensor, or
> a bad temp sensor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-coolant-level
>
> 34 - An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control
> vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input
> below the minimum acceptable voltage.
>
> Never ran into this code before. Related to the cruise control circuit.
> You may get problems caused by vacuum leaks. But that would be more
> along the line of rough idle than no-start.
>
> 55 - end of codes
>
>

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> tracking at the time.
> My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
> the engine temp is running normally.
> The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
> the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
> Thanks.
> Denny

The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to replace
the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was a
recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)

If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing sensor.
clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can measure
the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor and
watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
running while your doing this).

Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work done.
O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
(when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.

One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
a ticking noise out of the distributor)
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> tracking at the time.
> My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
> the engine temp is running normally.
> The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
> the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
> Thanks.
> Denny

The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to replace
the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was a
recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)

If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing sensor.
clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can measure
the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor and
watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
running while your doing this).

Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work done.
O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
(when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.

One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
a ticking noise out of the distributor)
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> tracking at the time.
> My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe
> the engine temp is running normally.
> The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper
> the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal?
> Thanks.
> Denny

The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to replace
the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was a
recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)

If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing sensor.
clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can measure
the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor and
watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
running while your doing this).

Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work done.
O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
(when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.

One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
a ticking noise out of the distributor)
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/

--
DougW

 

Thanks Doug,
I did replace the O2 sensor last Fall.
Dealer advised of the gauge failing some time ago. Temp, sensor was replaced
in the Fall also.
Understand about the speed/cruise solonoid. That's for a later fix.
Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site
or message on these locations?
I really appreciate all the help.
Denny


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:fJfJb.48539$PK3.7277@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Hi Doug, thanks for the response.
> > I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow.
> > I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was
> > tracking at the time.
> > My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to
believe
> > the engine temp is running normally.
> > The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have
> > undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been
> > tracking that as I can for awhile too.
> > So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I
jumper
> > the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only
deal?
> > Thanks.
> > Denny
>
> The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to
replace
> the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was
a
> recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)
>
> If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing
sensor.
> clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can
measure
> the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor
and
> watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep
> running while your doing this).
>
> Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work
done.
> O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code.
> (when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance)
> Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.
>
> One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you
> a ticking noise out of the distributor)
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
>
> --
> DougW
>
>