Dana Rohleder

That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
--
Dana
Port Kent, NY

2002 Saturn LW300
93 Jeep YJ
90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
---------------
95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
82 Cherokee 4dr
76 Cherokee 2dr

"tim bur" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:42BA07F1.FF7BA693@cac.net...
> the reason the abs causes the vehicle to dive is the airgap for the wheel
> sensors is to great and this causes the abs unit to act accordingly even
> rust
> built up on the tone wheel can cause this
>
> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>
>> The ABS fiasco cost me $2000 out of pocket for repairs/diagnostics to
>> date,
>> not including the actuator that was covered under warranty. It still
>> pulls
>> severely to the right, but the ABS fault lights are no longer working.
>> They
>> wanted to replace both my front calipers and hoses for another $500, but
>> I
>> put a stop to it. I asked them if they would guarantee that it would stop
>> the pulling and they looked at me like a golden goose that just stopped
>> laying eggs. I took the car back and may do the job myself for 1/2 of the
>> cost - they have got their last dime out of me.
>> --
>> Dana
>> Port Kent, NY
>>
>> 2002 Saturn LW300
>> 93 Jeep YJ
>> 90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
>> ---------------
>> 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
>> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>> 82 Cherokee 4dr
>> 76 Cherokee 2dr
>>
>> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
>> news:W%nhe.9558$i03.6203@fe06.lga...
>> > For those of you that have run this race before, can you offer any
>> > help?
>> >
>> > I bought a 90 XJ pretty cheap knowing there was a problem with the ABS
>> > system. Since the vehicle's ABS system still has an active safety
>> > recall
>> > on it, I felt I had to take it to the dealership for service. However,
>> > because a fault code points to my controller - $1100 for the part. They
>> > say they need to replace the controller BEFORE they can get into the
>> > recall portion of the repair. The car has 140K on it, so I am over the
>> > extended warranty on the ENTIRE ABS system, but I should be covered on
>> > the
>> > "lifetime" coverage on the recall for the actuator assy and the
>> > pump/motor
>> > assy.
>> >
>> > I also had the dealer run up an estimate on converting the vehicle to a
>> > non-ABS power brake system, as had been recommended by others on the
>> > list.
>> > Their estimate was $1300 parts/labor.
>> >
>> > My questions follow:
>> >
>> > 1. What is the reliability of the ABS system AFTER the necessary
>> > repairs
>> > are done?
>> > 2. Is it possible that a malfunctioning actuator/pump/motor components
>> > could have fried the controller, and if so, should/would D-C pay for
>> > the
>> > controller as well?
>> > 3. If their ABS system on these vehicles is so bad, shouldn't they be
>> > converting all of the malfunctioning systems to non-ABS and paying for
>> > that repair?
>> > 4. Is the dealer trying to scare me away from the ABS recall claim by
>> > making me pay for the controller up front - leaving me the option of
>> > paying for the downgrade out-of-pocket - so that D-C doesn't have to
>> > pay a
>> > cent for the recall work?
>> > 5. Does anyone have a number for a contact at D-C who could help
>> > clarify
>> > and sort this situation out?
>> > --
>> > Dana
>> > Port Kent, NY
>> >
>> > 93 YJ, 90 XJ, (76, 82 & 91 FSJ -deceased)
>> >
>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>> > and
>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>> >
>

Dana Rohleder

That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
--
Dana
Port Kent, NY

2002 Saturn LW300
93 Jeep YJ
90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
---------------
95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
82 Cherokee 4dr
76 Cherokee 2dr

"tim bur" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:42BA07F1.FF7BA693@cac.net...
> the reason the abs causes the vehicle to dive is the airgap for the wheel
> sensors is to great and this causes the abs unit to act accordingly even
> rust
> built up on the tone wheel can cause this
>
> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>
>> The ABS fiasco cost me $2000 out of pocket for repairs/diagnostics to
>> date,
>> not including the actuator that was covered under warranty. It still
>> pulls
>> severely to the right, but the ABS fault lights are no longer working.
>> They
>> wanted to replace both my front calipers and hoses for another $500, but
>> I
>> put a stop to it. I asked them if they would guarantee that it would stop
>> the pulling and they looked at me like a golden goose that just stopped
>> laying eggs. I took the car back and may do the job myself for 1/2 of the
>> cost - they have got their last dime out of me.
>> --
>> Dana
>> Port Kent, NY
>>
>> 2002 Saturn LW300
>> 93 Jeep YJ
>> 90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
>> ---------------
>> 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
>> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>> 82 Cherokee 4dr
>> 76 Cherokee 2dr
>>
>> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
>> news:W%nhe.9558$i03.6203@fe06.lga...
>> > For those of you that have run this race before, can you offer any
>> > help?
>> >
>> > I bought a 90 XJ pretty cheap knowing there was a problem with the ABS
>> > system. Since the vehicle's ABS system still has an active safety
>> > recall
>> > on it, I felt I had to take it to the dealership for service. However,
>> > because a fault code points to my controller - $1100 for the part. They
>> > say they need to replace the controller BEFORE they can get into the
>> > recall portion of the repair. The car has 140K on it, so I am over the
>> > extended warranty on the ENTIRE ABS system, but I should be covered on
>> > the
>> > "lifetime" coverage on the recall for the actuator assy and the
>> > pump/motor
>> > assy.
>> >
>> > I also had the dealer run up an estimate on converting the vehicle to a
>> > non-ABS power brake system, as had been recommended by others on the
>> > list.
>> > Their estimate was $1300 parts/labor.
>> >
>> > My questions follow:
>> >
>> > 1. What is the reliability of the ABS system AFTER the necessary
>> > repairs
>> > are done?
>> > 2. Is it possible that a malfunctioning actuator/pump/motor components
>> > could have fried the controller, and if so, should/would D-C pay for
>> > the
>> > controller as well?
>> > 3. If their ABS system on these vehicles is so bad, shouldn't they be
>> > converting all of the malfunctioning systems to non-ABS and paying for
>> > that repair?
>> > 4. Is the dealer trying to scare me away from the ABS recall claim by
>> > making me pay for the controller up front - leaving me the option of
>> > paying for the downgrade out-of-pocket - so that D-C doesn't have to
>> > pay a
>> > cent for the recall work?
>> > 5. Does anyone have a number for a contact at D-C who could help
>> > clarify
>> > and sort this situation out?
>> > --
>> > Dana
>> > Port Kent, NY
>> >
>> > 93 YJ, 90 XJ, (76, 82 & 91 FSJ -deceased)
>> >
>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>> > and
>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>> >
>

Dana Rohleder

That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
--
Dana
Port Kent, NY

2002 Saturn LW300
93 Jeep YJ
90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
---------------
95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
82 Cherokee 4dr
76 Cherokee 2dr

"tim bur" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:42BA07F1.FF7BA693@cac.net...
> the reason the abs causes the vehicle to dive is the airgap for the wheel
> sensors is to great and this causes the abs unit to act accordingly even
> rust
> built up on the tone wheel can cause this
>
> Dana Rohleder wrote:
>
>> The ABS fiasco cost me $2000 out of pocket for repairs/diagnostics to
>> date,
>> not including the actuator that was covered under warranty. It still
>> pulls
>> severely to the right, but the ABS fault lights are no longer working.
>> They
>> wanted to replace both my front calipers and hoses for another $500, but
>> I
>> put a stop to it. I asked them if they would guarantee that it would stop
>> the pulling and they looked at me like a golden goose that just stopped
>> laying eggs. I took the car back and may do the job myself for 1/2 of the
>> cost - they have got their last dime out of me.
>> --
>> Dana
>> Port Kent, NY
>>
>> 2002 Saturn LW300
>> 93 Jeep YJ
>> 90 Jeep XJ Ltd.
>> ---------------
>> 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd.
>> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd.
>> 82 Cherokee 4dr
>> 76 Cherokee 2dr
>>
>> "Dana Rohleder" <boreal@charter.net> wrote in message
>> news:W%nhe.9558$i03.6203@fe06.lga...
>> > For those of you that have run this race before, can you offer any
>> > help?
>> >
>> > I bought a 90 XJ pretty cheap knowing there was a problem with the ABS
>> > system. Since the vehicle's ABS system still has an active safety
>> > recall
>> > on it, I felt I had to take it to the dealership for service. However,
>> > because a fault code points to my controller - $1100 for the part. They
>> > say they need to replace the controller BEFORE they can get into the
>> > recall portion of the repair. The car has 140K on it, so I am over the
>> > extended warranty on the ENTIRE ABS system, but I should be covered on
>> > the
>> > "lifetime" coverage on the recall for the actuator assy and the
>> > pump/motor
>> > assy.
>> >
>> > I also had the dealer run up an estimate on converting the vehicle to a
>> > non-ABS power brake system, as had been recommended by others on the
>> > list.
>> > Their estimate was $1300 parts/labor.
>> >
>> > My questions follow:
>> >
>> > 1. What is the reliability of the ABS system AFTER the necessary
>> > repairs
>> > are done?
>> > 2. Is it possible that a malfunctioning actuator/pump/motor components
>> > could have fried the controller, and if so, should/would D-C pay for
>> > the
>> > controller as well?
>> > 3. If their ABS system on these vehicles is so bad, shouldn't they be
>> > converting all of the malfunctioning systems to non-ABS and paying for
>> > that repair?
>> > 4. Is the dealer trying to scare me away from the ABS recall claim by
>> > making me pay for the controller up front - leaving me the option of
>> > paying for the downgrade out-of-pocket - so that D-C doesn't have to
>> > pay a
>> > cent for the recall work?
>> > 5. Does anyone have a number for a contact at D-C who could help
>> > clarify
>> > and sort this situation out?
>> > --
>> > Dana
>> > Port Kent, NY
>> >
>> > 93 YJ, 90 XJ, (76, 82 & 91 FSJ -deceased)
>> >
>> > "It's in our country's interests to find those who would do harm to us
>> > and
>> > get them out of harm's way." GW Bush -Washington, D.C., April 28, 2005
>> >
>

DougW

Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?

A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.

Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
railroad crossings or potholes.

Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
on.

Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.

--
DougW

DougW

Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?

A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.

Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
railroad crossings or potholes.

Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
on.

Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.

--
DougW

DougW

Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?

A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.

Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
railroad crossings or potholes.

Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
on.

Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.

--
DougW

DougW

Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?

A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.

Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
railroad crossings or potholes.

Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
on.

Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.

--
DougW

tim bur

lets think about the rust it has to be metal so it can rust
and it could be said it is a metal flake since it will stick to a magnat which is what a
speed sensor is basicly
i have seen this exact thing occur om many a jeep since i live in the snow/rust belt not
to mention the gouged end of the speed sensor from the rust and even dirt which i seen on
a 05 tj the other day that set a abs code
DougW wrote:

> Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> > That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> > getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> > if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> > satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> > cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
>
> A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
> is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
> of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.
>
> Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
> wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
> contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
> This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
> railroad crossings or potholes.
>
> Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
> layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
> on.
>
> Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
> will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.
>
> --
> DougW

tim bur

lets think about the rust it has to be metal so it can rust
and it could be said it is a metal flake since it will stick to a magnat which is what a
speed sensor is basicly
i have seen this exact thing occur om many a jeep since i live in the snow/rust belt not
to mention the gouged end of the speed sensor from the rust and even dirt which i seen on
a 05 tj the other day that set a abs code
DougW wrote:

> Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> > That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> > getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> > if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> > satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> > cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
>
> A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
> is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
> of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.
>
> Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
> wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
> contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
> This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
> railroad crossings or potholes.
>
> Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
> layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
> on.
>
> Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
> will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.
>
> --
> DougW

tim bur

lets think about the rust it has to be metal so it can rust
and it could be said it is a metal flake since it will stick to a magnat which is what a
speed sensor is basicly
i have seen this exact thing occur om many a jeep since i live in the snow/rust belt not
to mention the gouged end of the speed sensor from the rust and even dirt which i seen on
a 05 tj the other day that set a abs code
DougW wrote:

> Dana Rohleder did pass the time by typing:
> > That was my thought too, but the tech said that if that were the case I'd be
> > getting a fault light. I asked them 3 times to check the gaps, or even see
> > if the passenger's front wasn't working at all, but they never gave me the
> > satisfaction. The gaps I can check myself, but is there an easy way of
> > cleaning the rust off of the tonewheels without removing them?
>
> A little rust on the tone wheels won't hurt anything. What will cause problems
> is buildup of metal filings from the brakes on the sensors face. Just use a piece
> of cloth and with the wheel off slowly turn the hub to drag it past the tone ring.
>
> Then go and clean the connector to your ABS computer. (both the pin and the
> wire side) 99% of all ABS faults are caused by that connector getting
> contaminated by road salt/grime/dust and it doesn't take much to cause problems.
> This problem usually manifests itself as the ABS light coming on when you go over
> railroad crossings or potholes.
>
> Use a spray contact cleaner that's safe for plastic, not WD-40! Then apply a good
> layer of silicone dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) to both sides and pop it back
> on.
>
> Having one sensor out of cal by just a smidge (less than it takes to set a fault code)
> will cause the ABS to apply just as you come to a normal stop.
>
> --
> DougW