averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> checking the ballast wire out I think.
>
> I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> misprint.
>
Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.


> The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> positive and the ignition module.

I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
turned out to be 1.3 ohms.

With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.

I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.

You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).

I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
driving it.

>
> The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> kinda makes sense.
>
> Mike
>

I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).

Thanks again,

Bob-O

averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> checking the ballast wire out I think.
>
> I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> misprint.
>
Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.


> The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> positive and the ignition module.

I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
turned out to be 1.3 ohms.

With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.

I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.

You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).

I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
driving it.

>
> The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> kinda makes sense.
>
> Mike
>

I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).

Thanks again,

Bob-O

averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> checking the ballast wire out I think.
>
> I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> misprint.
>
Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.


> The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> positive and the ignition module.

I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
turned out to be 1.3 ohms.

With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.

I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.

You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).

I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
driving it.

>
> The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> kinda makes sense.
>
> Mike
>

I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).

Thanks again,

Bob-O

Mike Romain

Interesting....

You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.

6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
high.

Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?
;-)

Mike

"averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> >
> > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > misprint.
> >
> Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
>
> > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > positive and the ignition module.
>
> I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
>
> With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
>
> I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
>
> You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
>
> I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> driving it.
>
> >
> > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > kinda makes sense.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bob-O

Mike Romain

Interesting....

You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.

6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
high.

Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?
;-)

Mike

"averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> >
> > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > misprint.
> >
> Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
>
> > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > positive and the ignition module.
>
> I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
>
> With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
>
> I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
>
> You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
>
> I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> driving it.
>
> >
> > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > kinda makes sense.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bob-O

Mike Romain

Interesting....

You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.

6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
high.

Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?
;-)

Mike

"averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> >
> > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > misprint.
> >
> Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
>
> > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > positive and the ignition module.
>
> I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
>
> With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
>
> I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
>
> You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
>
> I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> driving it.
>
> >
> > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > kinda makes sense.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bob-O

averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F89E2B3.11E4E0A7@sympatico.ca>...
> Interesting....
>
> You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

yeah, maybe you're used to metric volts. :)

>
> 6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
> some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
> resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.
>
I'll check and let you know. I'm sure I'll do some re-checking of the
troubleshooting flowcharts just to satisfy my curiosity.


> 6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
> high.
>
> Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?

It works !?!?!?!? Shhhhh!!!! Are you trying to jinx me or
something?!

> ;-)
>
> Mike
>
> "averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> > >
> > > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > > misprint.
> > >
> > Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> > voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> > cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> > popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> > has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> > been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
> >
> > > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > > positive and the ignition module.
> >
> > I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> > higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> > turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
> >
> > With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
> >
> > I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> > voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> > trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> > module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
> >
> > You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> > fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> > turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> > I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> > 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> > something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> > sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> > was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
> >
> > I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> > my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> > but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> > driving it.
> >
> > >
> > > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > > kinda makes sense.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> >
> > I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> > that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> > ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> > computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> > interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> > a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> > Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> > and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> > Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> > seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Bob-O

averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F89E2B3.11E4E0A7@sympatico.ca>...
> Interesting....
>
> You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

yeah, maybe you're used to metric volts. :)

>
> 6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
> some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
> resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.
>
I'll check and let you know. I'm sure I'll do some re-checking of the
troubleshooting flowcharts just to satisfy my curiosity.


> 6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
> high.
>
> Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?

It works !?!?!?!? Shhhhh!!!! Are you trying to jinx me or
something?!

> ;-)
>
> Mike
>
> "averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> > >
> > > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > > misprint.
> > >
> > Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> > voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> > cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> > popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> > has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> > been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
> >
> > > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > > positive and the ignition module.
> >
> > I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> > higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> > turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
> >
> > With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
> >
> > I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> > voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> > trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> > module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
> >
> > You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> > fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> > turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> > I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> > 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> > something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> > sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> > was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
> >
> > I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> > my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> > but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> > driving it.
> >
> > >
> > > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > > kinda makes sense.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> >
> > I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> > that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> > ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> > computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> > interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> > a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> > Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> > and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> > Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> > seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Bob-O

averyislandboy@yahoo.com

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F89E2B3.11E4E0A7@sympatico.ca>...
> Interesting....
>
> You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

yeah, maybe you're used to metric volts. :)

>
> 6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up
> some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the
> resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.
>
I'll check and let you know. I'm sure I'll do some re-checking of the
troubleshooting flowcharts just to satisfy my curiosity.


> 6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really
> high.
>
> Hey, but it works, who am I to argue?

It works !?!?!?!? Shhhhh!!!! Are you trying to jinx me or
something?!

> ;-)
>
> Mike
>
> "averyislandboy@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3F896983.26CC483F@sympatico.ca>...
> > > Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be
> > > checking the ballast wire out I think.
> > >
> > > I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a
> > > misprint.
> > >
> > Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the
> > voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I
> > cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again,
> > popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which
> > has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's
> > been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.
> >
> > > The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil
> > > positive and the ignition module.
> >
> > I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read
> > higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference
> > turned out to be 1.3 ohms.
> >
> > With a 12 volt supply and one amp,
> > > you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run.
> > > Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the
> > > alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.
> >
> > I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery
> > voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing
> > trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new
> > module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.
> >
> > You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing
> > fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and
> > turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything.
> > I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my
> > 1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew
> > something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after
> > sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I
> > was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).
> >
> > I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep
> > my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it,
> > but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and
> > driving it.
> >
> > >
> > > The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast.
> > > I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run
> > > on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure
> > > about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other
> > > person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression
> > > kinda makes sense.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> >
> > I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought
> > that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I
> > ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the
> > computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio
> > interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot
> > a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open.
> > Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor,
> > and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points.
> > Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle
> > seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Bob-O