'88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
....
> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
> body in the way.
>
I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
this guy has is over his head, really.
Earle
04-17-2007, 02:18 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Tue, 17 Apr 2007 12:01:30 -0600, "Earle Horton"
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-17-2007, 02:18 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Tue, 17 Apr 2007 12:01:30 -0600, "Earle Horton"
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-17-2007, 02:18 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Tue, 17 Apr 2007 12:01:30 -0600, "Earle Horton"
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-17-2007, 02:18 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Tue, 17 Apr 2007 12:01:30 -0600, "Earle Horton"
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:462506c0$0$6591$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>...
>> Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic
>> do all the labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last
>> century, I had a rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my
>> time and put all the new lines and things on it. It is really not
>> that hard to do when you have the old parts as a guide and no
>> body in the way.
>>
>I agree. The donor frame is going to have bolts rusted, holes not drilled,
>welded brackets missing and fittings in a different location from what you
>need. That kind of stuff really eats up time. It sounds as if the mechanic
>this guy has is over his head, really.
>
>Earle
>
The problem is the basic frame design. Jeep used a thin gauge high
strength alloy frame and rust can take its toll on it and if you try
to repair it you will speen a lot of time trying to piece it togehter
and fine a strong place to weld too then if you do not do this right,
the new material will create stress in a new area on metal that may be
weaked by rust too. You could have some custom hat sections made up to
restore weak areas but that would not be cheap either. Another thought
is if you can find another frame you could use part of it to splits
repair the existing frame and not have to replace complete frame. If
it was mine and the rest of the frame was good I would try this method
first I think. If I replaced the complete frame I would use a shortend
P/U frame as I stated earlier because it is a lot stronger and would
never rust out during the rest of its service life. If you just have a
local welder weld in some odd pieces this will not likely create a
good fix. Whithout seeing the actual damage it is hard to say for sure
the best possible repair solution.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-17-2007, 04:08 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I went down to the garage and picked the Jeep up today. I had a broken
driver's side door pull and had them price that, but when I heard about the
frame problem I stopped all work. When I went to get in the Jeep, the latch
assembly was laying in pieces on the floorboard, so I had to wait for a
mechanic to put it back together in the pariking lot. The good news was
first, I watched him put it back together, so if I can get the part ( a
driver's door latch assembly), I'm sure I can do that myself. Second, we had
a nice chat about the car. He didn't do the inspection, but we got under it
and he pointed some stuff out. For the most part the frame, (and the Jeep in
in general) is virtually rust free. There is a middle section that looks
like there is a sheet metal pan attached to it, I think this holds up the
gas tank or shields it, and that section is rusted and the pan is in pieces
(I suspect because mechanics have been poking around the rust so much as I
never noticed it before). Anyway, he said fabricators and race shops make
frames all the time. He seems to think that it needs to go on a lift, a
brace needs to be tacked on both sides to hold it while the bad section is
cut out, then a new fabricated piece is welded in. He says the bad section
doesn't have places where other parts are bolted on etc..fairly simple. He
seems to think it'll cost between $800 and $1000 and the owner of the shop
a) doesn't have the equipment/experience and 2) the shop wouldn't make any
real money on the repair like it makes on other less complicated routine
stuff that they can turn over quickly. Anyway, it's sitting in front of my
house and I think I'll get some more opinions before I try to locate a
replacement frame.
driver's side door pull and had them price that, but when I heard about the
frame problem I stopped all work. When I went to get in the Jeep, the latch
assembly was laying in pieces on the floorboard, so I had to wait for a
mechanic to put it back together in the pariking lot. The good news was
first, I watched him put it back together, so if I can get the part ( a
driver's door latch assembly), I'm sure I can do that myself. Second, we had
a nice chat about the car. He didn't do the inspection, but we got under it
and he pointed some stuff out. For the most part the frame, (and the Jeep in
in general) is virtually rust free. There is a middle section that looks
like there is a sheet metal pan attached to it, I think this holds up the
gas tank or shields it, and that section is rusted and the pan is in pieces
(I suspect because mechanics have been poking around the rust so much as I
never noticed it before). Anyway, he said fabricators and race shops make
frames all the time. He seems to think that it needs to go on a lift, a
brace needs to be tacked on both sides to hold it while the bad section is
cut out, then a new fabricated piece is welded in. He says the bad section
doesn't have places where other parts are bolted on etc..fairly simple. He
seems to think it'll cost between $800 and $1000 and the owner of the shop
a) doesn't have the equipment/experience and 2) the shop wouldn't make any
real money on the repair like it makes on other less complicated routine
stuff that they can turn over quickly. Anyway, it's sitting in front of my
house and I think I'll get some more opinions before I try to locate a
replacement frame.
04-17-2007, 04:08 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I went down to the garage and picked the Jeep up today. I had a broken
driver's side door pull and had them price that, but when I heard about the
frame problem I stopped all work. When I went to get in the Jeep, the latch
assembly was laying in pieces on the floorboard, so I had to wait for a
mechanic to put it back together in the pariking lot. The good news was
first, I watched him put it back together, so if I can get the part ( a
driver's door latch assembly), I'm sure I can do that myself. Second, we had
a nice chat about the car. He didn't do the inspection, but we got under it
and he pointed some stuff out. For the most part the frame, (and the Jeep in
in general) is virtually rust free. There is a middle section that looks
like there is a sheet metal pan attached to it, I think this holds up the
gas tank or shields it, and that section is rusted and the pan is in pieces
(I suspect because mechanics have been poking around the rust so much as I
never noticed it before). Anyway, he said fabricators and race shops make
frames all the time. He seems to think that it needs to go on a lift, a
brace needs to be tacked on both sides to hold it while the bad section is
cut out, then a new fabricated piece is welded in. He says the bad section
doesn't have places where other parts are bolted on etc..fairly simple. He
seems to think it'll cost between $800 and $1000 and the owner of the shop
a) doesn't have the equipment/experience and 2) the shop wouldn't make any
real money on the repair like it makes on other less complicated routine
stuff that they can turn over quickly. Anyway, it's sitting in front of my
house and I think I'll get some more opinions before I try to locate a
replacement frame.
driver's side door pull and had them price that, but when I heard about the
frame problem I stopped all work. When I went to get in the Jeep, the latch
assembly was laying in pieces on the floorboard, so I had to wait for a
mechanic to put it back together in the pariking lot. The good news was
first, I watched him put it back together, so if I can get the part ( a
driver's door latch assembly), I'm sure I can do that myself. Second, we had
a nice chat about the car. He didn't do the inspection, but we got under it
and he pointed some stuff out. For the most part the frame, (and the Jeep in
in general) is virtually rust free. There is a middle section that looks
like there is a sheet metal pan attached to it, I think this holds up the
gas tank or shields it, and that section is rusted and the pan is in pieces
(I suspect because mechanics have been poking around the rust so much as I
never noticed it before). Anyway, he said fabricators and race shops make
frames all the time. He seems to think that it needs to go on a lift, a
brace needs to be tacked on both sides to hold it while the bad section is
cut out, then a new fabricated piece is welded in. He says the bad section
doesn't have places where other parts are bolted on etc..fairly simple. He
seems to think it'll cost between $800 and $1000 and the owner of the shop
a) doesn't have the equipment/experience and 2) the shop wouldn't make any
real money on the repair like it makes on other less complicated routine
stuff that they can turn over quickly. Anyway, it's sitting in front of my
house and I think I'll get some more opinions before I try to locate a
replacement frame.