'88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
04-17-2007, 09:37 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
well, and most everything still works.
04-17-2007, 09:37 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
well, and most everything still works.
04-17-2007, 12:35 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark,
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
04-17-2007, 12:35 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark,
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
04-17-2007, 12:35 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark,
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
04-17-2007, 12:35 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark,
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
Well, suffice it to say you're looking at a fair bill to swap out that
frame -- I think the hour figure is high since most likely you will be
purchasing a wrecked/rolling chassis -- so you don't swap every
assembly in the process, you roll the old one out and roll the new one
under. So you're looking at labor, a rolling chassis, one or two
tows, and every nut, bolt, and replaceable assembly that gets touched
in the proce$$....a number that eclipses the value of a good example
from a rust-free area.
For the record (as someone who worked/killed time in one), I think you
really need to take it by a local welding shop before you park it for
good -- if I'm correct in interpreting your mechanic's issues, there
is no structural issue with the frame rails (Otherwise you'd have
suspension problems or bumpers that fall off), and the crossmembers
are what have rotted off. If that's correct, there's no reason why a
local welding shop can't put together something that will outlast the
rest of the vehicle....and for a fraction of the price. And while
your'e in there, it's a great opportunity to do some rust prevention
in the vicinity.
I'll stop here...
Jon
04-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
04-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
04-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
04-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I have a bit more information...my mechanic says the main reason it won't
> pass now is that the frame is rusted where the support for the gas tank is
> and that has to be fixed to so the gas tank is supported properly. He has
> enough good metal that he can tack weld pieces of good metal in places and
> pass it for another year, but after that he doubts he can fix it any
> further. He says if I can find a good frame somewhere, it's about a 30 hour
> job over three days @ $70 per hour to completely remove every piece off the
> old frame and rebuild it on the new frame. I have decided to park the car
> for now until I can research and find out if I can reasonably expect to find
> a decent frame somewhere. The car has about 90,000 miles on the engine,
> 180,000 on the car. I've had it since it was 2 years old. Otherwise it runs
> well, and most everything still works.
>
>
I will also agree about going to a professional welding shop or even a
trade school for frame repairs. The pros are usually better and cheaper
than a mechanic for welding repairs. A few well placed patches have
kept my frame going for an amazingly long time. Plus I don't really
bash it off road anymore due to injuries from a car accident.
Economically I don't see how it would pay to have a mechanic do all the
labor on the swap. When I rebuilt my frame last century, I had a
rolling chassis sitting there so I could take my time and put all the
new lines and things on it. It is really not that hard to do when you
have the old parts as a guide and no body in the way.
I also stripped the old frame down and put a coat of that 'rust
converter' stuff on it with a rubberized overcoat to slow down future
rust. I will have to say it worked seeing as I am still driving her 7-8
years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)