'88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
> and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
>
If it is the part I have in my mind, it is an 'easy' fix, well as 'easy'
as any rotted bolt job is going to be. The skid plate unbolts from the
frame. I did manage to get the bolts out of mine with some PB Blaster
penetrant and an impact air gun. It took some doing and a pile of
impacting, but only had to cut two of them.
Normally when the skid plate is that gone, so is the gas tank inside it
unless you are lucky and have the poly tank like my 86 CJ has.
Our 88's gas tank and it's skid rotted out back about 7 or 8 years ago
so I have had this happen to both of my Jeeps.
You can easily get a replacement skid plate. If that is it, I recommend
some 1" holes in the bottom of the new one to let the sand out.
I hate guessing on something like that which is why I mentioned a
digital camera or even a phone camera to show the area. You can email
them to me and I will post them public if you want.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
> and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
>
If it is the part I have in my mind, it is an 'easy' fix, well as 'easy'
as any rotted bolt job is going to be. The skid plate unbolts from the
frame. I did manage to get the bolts out of mine with some PB Blaster
penetrant and an impact air gun. It took some doing and a pile of
impacting, but only had to cut two of them.
Normally when the skid plate is that gone, so is the gas tank inside it
unless you are lucky and have the poly tank like my 86 CJ has.
Our 88's gas tank and it's skid rotted out back about 7 or 8 years ago
so I have had this happen to both of my Jeeps.
You can easily get a replacement skid plate. If that is it, I recommend
some 1" holes in the bottom of the new one to let the sand out.
I hate guessing on something like that which is why I mentioned a
digital camera or even a phone camera to show the area. You can email
them to me and I will post them public if you want.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Mark Corbelli wrote:
> So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
> and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
>
If it is the part I have in my mind, it is an 'easy' fix, well as 'easy'
as any rotted bolt job is going to be. The skid plate unbolts from the
frame. I did manage to get the bolts out of mine with some PB Blaster
penetrant and an impact air gun. It took some doing and a pile of
impacting, but only had to cut two of them.
Normally when the skid plate is that gone, so is the gas tank inside it
unless you are lucky and have the poly tank like my 86 CJ has.
Our 88's gas tank and it's skid rotted out back about 7 or 8 years ago
so I have had this happen to both of my Jeeps.
You can easily get a replacement skid plate. If that is it, I recommend
some 1" holes in the bottom of the new one to let the sand out.
I hate guessing on something like that which is why I mentioned a
digital camera or even a phone camera to show the area. You can email
them to me and I will post them public if you want.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
> and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
>
If it is the part I have in my mind, it is an 'easy' fix, well as 'easy'
as any rotted bolt job is going to be. The skid plate unbolts from the
frame. I did manage to get the bolts out of mine with some PB Blaster
penetrant and an impact air gun. It took some doing and a pile of
impacting, but only had to cut two of them.
Normally when the skid plate is that gone, so is the gas tank inside it
unless you are lucky and have the poly tank like my 86 CJ has.
Our 88's gas tank and it's skid rotted out back about 7 or 8 years ago
so I have had this happen to both of my Jeeps.
You can easily get a replacement skid plate. If that is it, I recommend
some 1" holes in the bottom of the new one to let the sand out.
I hate guessing on something like that which is why I mentioned a
digital camera or even a phone camera to show the area. You can email
them to me and I will post them public if you want.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the nooks
>and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
>region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
>
I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
(far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England, but
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England, but
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England, but
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England, but
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:5cec23144v30g8bc7dhkm5bmiqtjs0vje4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:50:32 GMT, "Mark Corbelli"
> <m_corbelli@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >So given that you are right, and that the salt/sand got stuck in the
nooks
> >and crannies of the skid plate and held water against the frame, is this
> >region of the frame easier to fix than perhaps somewhere else?
> >
>
>
> I can tell you a trick I have been using for many years to works
> really well. I have been running a few plow trucks for many winters
> and the salt can be really hard on them. I have a 79 J20 that I
> retired for plow duty a few years ago that has been in the salt in
> winter basically since it was new. It has not rusted away and frame is
> still in great shape with very little surface rust on it. What is my
> trick? Every spring and fall I spray the under side of truck and
> fender wells, brakelinesl and body seams with 90 weight gear oil in a
> paint spray gun. (I have even taken grill off to spray behind it and
> inside of door panels a few times and I even removed tail lights to
> spray up into bed/fender area. It seem to work better than rust
> proofing in that it does not trap moisure under it like rust proofing
> can nor does it hide rust like rustproofing can (it can look fine on
> surface and be eaten away underneath) The additives in gear oil
> attacks rust and has a lot of staying power and is hard to wash off
> (far better than motor oil) and it can get into seams where rust
> starts. The draw back is that your vehicle smells of gear oil for a
> few days or so and it is a bit messy to do but rewards are high. If I
> had not done this my old J20 would have rotted away many years ago.
> Except for a few smal rust areas the body is in great shape. I do this
> to my plow and salt ------ing equipment too and it is still in fine
> shape after many seasons of use. I just put my plows in storage last
> week and I sprayed them down completely before placing them in barn
> and I can take then out in late fall and they look as they did when
> they went into storage. After you spray truck many times a residue
> films starts to form on metal parts than protect metal so sometimes
> you just need to just do a touch up. None of the chassi bolt on that
> old jeep are rusted one to this day and i can remove them if need be.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com