87 YJ
01-05-2007, 12:22 PM
#301
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Mike Romain wrote:
> I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> t-case drop.
What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
the hard way about a lot more, too).
> Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
As always, thanks a lot.
> I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> t-case drop.
What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
the hard way about a lot more, too).
> Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 12:49 PM
#302
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
The Merg wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 12:49 PM
#303
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
The Merg wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 12:49 PM
#304
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
The Merg wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > t-case drop.
>
> What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
on the ground.
What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
wheel in a hole.
The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
SYE one is a special case)
Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
They then look like : |----------|.
If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
/----------/ .
Make any sense?
To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
up the angles again.
Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
clearance.
On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
mounts.
A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
larger tires and the engine lift.
Mike
>
> > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
>
> I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> the hard way about a lot more, too).
>
> > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
>
> As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 04:07 PM
#305
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 04:07 PM
#306
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 04:07 PM
#307
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have and
> > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get the
> > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for a
> > > t-case drop.
> >
> > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
>
> The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> on the ground.
>
> What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> wheel in a hole.
>
> The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> SYE one is a special case)
>
> Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> They then look like : |----------|.
>
> If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> /----------/ .
>
> Make any sense?
>
> To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> up the angles again.
>
> Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> clearance.
>
> On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> mounts.
>
> A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> larger tires and the engine lift.
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> >
> > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> >
> > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily drivers.
> >
> > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > As always, thanks a lot.
01-05-2007, 04:25 PM
#308
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Many people do both, which gives more angle for less displacement of
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
01-05-2007, 04:25 PM
#309
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Many people do both, which gives more angle for less displacement of
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
01-05-2007, 04:25 PM
#310
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ magically turned into a '92 XJ
Many people do both, which gives more angle for less displacement of
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
components. The fan can hit the shroud and your exhaust can get bent out of
alignment if you are not careful. If you go with much lift, a slip yolk
eliminator or a double cardan joint shaft (more moving parts, more problems)
becomes necessary. Remember if you point the engine up or the TC down, this
also points the front of the transfer case up, which can lead to front drive
line alignment problems. Then you may have to point the front pinion *down*
to correct them.
Earle
"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168031232.946325.23950@q40g2000cwq.googlegro ups.com...
> Gotcha - thanks for the explanation. So the engine mount lift
> basically does the same as the transfer case drop without taking away
> ground clearance. That certainly seems preferable.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The Merg wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I was basically saying that he can just go the 2.5-3" like we have
and
> > > > put a 1" body lift on with a 1" engine mount lift if needed to get
the
> > > > driveshaft angles right. With the engine lift, there is no need for
a
> > > > t-case drop.
> > >
> > > What you're saying here is that the body lift and engine mount lift
> > > would kind of cancel each other out? how does this work? I think I
> > > have a general idea, but just for clarification's sake...
> >
> > The issue with the YJ and raising the suspension, is the driveshaft has
> > to slip in and out of the transfer case on the plane of the engine and
> > tranny setup. If this angle gets too acute from too tall a lift, the
> > driveshaft will jam up and you can snap things or it can just fall out
> > on the ground.
> >
> > What folks can do for this is to put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it
> > which puts the slip joint on the driveshaft like the CJ's had stock.
> > Then the driveshaft isn't as likely to just fall out if you hang a rear
> > wheel in a hole.
> >
> > The other issue that all Jeeps have when lifting is to get the u-joints
> > at the t-case end of the driveshaft to have the same angle to the ground
> > as the u-joint at the rear differential. (with a stock driveshaft, a
> > SYE one is a special case)
> >
> > Basically the u-joints need to be parallel with each other so if the
> > u-joint at the t-case is straight up like this: |, then the one at the
> > rear diff has to be straight up the same or be sitting this way: | .
> > They then look like : |----------|.
> >
> > If the one at the transfer case is tilted down like /, then the one at
> > the rear end must be tilted up like this: / so they look like
> > /----------/ .
> >
> > Make any sense?
> >
> > To get these angles right so you don't have u-joints vibrations with a
> > 2.5- 3" lift, you can lower the transmission mount by lowering transfer
> > case skid plate with spacers to lower the tail of the t-case which lines
> > up the angles again.
> >
> > Or you can simply raise the engine mounts an inch which causes a teeter
> > totter effect on the transmission mount which effectively lowers the
> > tail on the t-case so the same angle is found without taking away ground
> > clearance.
> >
> > On most Jeeps, you need to add a 1" body spacer to fit the 1" motor
> > mounts.
> >
> > A body lift does 'not' affect the suspension. It just makes room for
> > larger tires and the engine lift.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > >
> > > > He is still 'shopping' for ideas I thought...
> > >
> > > I certainly am, Mike, and I appreciate all the help and info you guys
> > > have given me. Without you guys, I would have most certainly had to
> > > find out the hard way about a lot of stuff (I probably will find out
> > > the hard way about a lot more, too).
> > >
> > > > Our lifts are also taking into account these Jeeps are daily
drivers.
> > >
> > > As mine is/will be. Probably both the YJ and XJ will be essentially
> > > daily driveable vehicles - although in the future one (or another)
> > > vehicle will become trail dedicated, but that's another show.
> > > As always, thanks a lot.
>
