The Merg

That sounds like something I can handle - my dad's an engineer so he'd
never let me not be really really careful when measuring anything. And
I do have a welding guy - he trades welding jobs for being allowed to
hunt on my friend's farm, pretty good tradeoff.

I'm sold! Do you get commission on this or what?

On Jan 1, 6:10 am, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
> It is a little involved, and you've got to be really careful to get your
> axles centered an the correct pinion angles and castor. The costs are: $40
> for spring perches, $130 for shocks, $60 for a drop pitman arm, $40ish for
> U-bolts. $400 for an SYE (needed with a 4" spring lift as well). So you're
> looking at around $270 for the lifting. Longer brake lines are not needed as
> I have a few tricks that make your stockers PLENTY long. A YJ doesn't need
> trac bars front or rear, and the stock sway bar will reach for the road.
>
> The flex and ride are amazing, not to mention the added clearance below the
> axle. You gain nearly 2" below the axle, which is nearly the same difference
> you'll see between running 33" and 37" tires (under the axle at the spring
> perch).
>
> I would spring over on the stock axles, it's easy to replace them later and
> good practice to dial in your upgraded axles better. Definately have an
> experianced welder do the welding.
>
> Carl
>
> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in messagenews:1167604065.042403.113390@42g2000cwt.go oglegroups.com...
>
> > I've always been intrigued by the SOA idea - I think if I did it I'd
> > want to make it worth my while and upgrade the axles at the same time,
> > but I'll worry about that later. I actually read the SOA write-up over
> > at jedi.com last night - it sounds pretty involved. It might give me a
> > reason to get a welder, though.
>
> > Jedi SOA write-up: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.html
>
> > Carl wrote:
> >> The shackles will be fine. Once you do the 2.5" lift, you'll need to get
> >> some shims to correct your pinion angle, but you'll be fine. You should
> >> look
> >> into doing a spring-over. Plush ride, awesome flex, and clears 33's
> >> nicely.
> >> The YJ pictured on the link from my previous post was sprung over on
> >> 33's.
> >> It's actually cheaper than a 4" lift for a YJ, and you net around 6".
>
> >> I think I'm the only spring-over advocate in this group, but if you have
> >> any
> >> other questions I'll be happy to help.
>
> >> HTH
>
> >> Carl
>
> >> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:1167602775.284073.253840@a3g2000cwd.googleg roups.com...
> >> > They are cross-braced and very heavy-duty. We ordered the Performance
> >> > Accesories set, but I think they sent us these:
> >> >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101/Pr-p_Pro...
> >> > the ones we ordered were supposed to be 1.75" lift, but I think these
> >> > are about 1.5".
>
> >> > I'm thinking that I'll put these on for now, then later get something
> >> > like a 2.5" lift to to bring it up to around 4". I don't see myself
> >> > going over 33" tires until I get a bigger engine.
>
> >> > Thanks for the input, guys.
> >> > Carl wrote:
> >> >> That is absolutely correct. My YJ had the shackles before I did the
> >> >> spring-over, and was aligned just fine. Check out
> >> >>http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/
>
> >> >> for pics of the old YJ to see the shackles. Just make sure they're
> >> >> cross
> >> >> braced and one piece and you'll be fine.
>
> >> >> Carl
>
> >> >> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSS...@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com >
> >> >> wrote
> >> >> in
> >> >> messagenews:I4CdnZHzEp2ZhAXYnZ2dnUVZ_oqmnZ2d@rcn.n et...
> >> >> > Carl wrote:
> >> >> >> I'll take a shackle lift over a body lift any day. Body lift is
> >> >> >> ugly
> >> >> >> as
> >> >> >> hell, even at 1". Booo for body lift.
>
> >> >> >> Carl
>
> >> >> > I agree my boss had a 1.5 inch shackle lift on his YJ that cleared
> >> >> > 31's
> >> >> > without rubbing that lasted 40k miles or more before the POS 258
> >> >> > gave
> >> >> > up
> >> >> > around 125k... the lift was fine even on old original leafs. It
> >> >> > never
> >> >> > had
> >> >> > an alignment problem. I had roughly the same shackle lift on my YJ
> >> >> > for
> >> >> > 2
> >> >> > years and probably 35k miles without a single problem (it later got
> >> >> > a
> >> >> > real
> >> >> > spring lift to clear 33"s and later still some Heavy duty slightly
> >> >> > longer
> >> >> > than stock shackles (1/2" lift) to clear 35"s
>
> >> >> > No 1.5 inch lift should have problems... if you couldn't lift it
> >> >> > that
> >> >> > far
> >> >> > without needing to correct castor or drive line angles then we'd
> >> >> > have
> >> >> > millions of old Jeeps that can't be aligned because the old springs
> >> >> > settled an inch and a half. Mike loves making mountains out of mole
> >> >> > hills.
>
> >> >> > --
> >> >> > Simon
> >> >> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

The Merg

That sounds like something I can handle - my dad's an engineer so he'd
never let me not be really really careful when measuring anything. And
I do have a welding guy - he trades welding jobs for being allowed to
hunt on my friend's farm, pretty good tradeoff.

I'm sold! Do you get commission on this or what?

On Jan 1, 6:10 am, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
> It is a little involved, and you've got to be really careful to get your
> axles centered an the correct pinion angles and castor. The costs are: $40
> for spring perches, $130 for shocks, $60 for a drop pitman arm, $40ish for
> U-bolts. $400 for an SYE (needed with a 4" spring lift as well). So you're
> looking at around $270 for the lifting. Longer brake lines are not needed as
> I have a few tricks that make your stockers PLENTY long. A YJ doesn't need
> trac bars front or rear, and the stock sway bar will reach for the road.
>
> The flex and ride are amazing, not to mention the added clearance below the
> axle. You gain nearly 2" below the axle, which is nearly the same difference
> you'll see between running 33" and 37" tires (under the axle at the spring
> perch).
>
> I would spring over on the stock axles, it's easy to replace them later and
> good practice to dial in your upgraded axles better. Definately have an
> experianced welder do the welding.
>
> Carl
>
> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in messagenews:1167604065.042403.113390@42g2000cwt.go oglegroups.com...
>
> > I've always been intrigued by the SOA idea - I think if I did it I'd
> > want to make it worth my while and upgrade the axles at the same time,
> > but I'll worry about that later. I actually read the SOA write-up over
> > at jedi.com last night - it sounds pretty involved. It might give me a
> > reason to get a welder, though.
>
> > Jedi SOA write-up: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.html
>
> > Carl wrote:
> >> The shackles will be fine. Once you do the 2.5" lift, you'll need to get
> >> some shims to correct your pinion angle, but you'll be fine. You should
> >> look
> >> into doing a spring-over. Plush ride, awesome flex, and clears 33's
> >> nicely.
> >> The YJ pictured on the link from my previous post was sprung over on
> >> 33's.
> >> It's actually cheaper than a 4" lift for a YJ, and you net around 6".
>
> >> I think I'm the only spring-over advocate in this group, but if you have
> >> any
> >> other questions I'll be happy to help.
>
> >> HTH
>
> >> Carl
>
> >> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:1167602775.284073.253840@a3g2000cwd.googleg roups.com...
> >> > They are cross-braced and very heavy-duty. We ordered the Performance
> >> > Accesories set, but I think they sent us these:
> >> >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101/Pr-p_Pro...
> >> > the ones we ordered were supposed to be 1.75" lift, but I think these
> >> > are about 1.5".
>
> >> > I'm thinking that I'll put these on for now, then later get something
> >> > like a 2.5" lift to to bring it up to around 4". I don't see myself
> >> > going over 33" tires until I get a bigger engine.
>
> >> > Thanks for the input, guys.
> >> > Carl wrote:
> >> >> That is absolutely correct. My YJ had the shackles before I did the
> >> >> spring-over, and was aligned just fine. Check out
> >> >>http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/
>
> >> >> for pics of the old YJ to see the shackles. Just make sure they're
> >> >> cross
> >> >> braced and one piece and you'll be fine.
>
> >> >> Carl
>
> >> >> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSS...@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com >
> >> >> wrote
> >> >> in
> >> >> messagenews:I4CdnZHzEp2ZhAXYnZ2dnUVZ_oqmnZ2d@rcn.n et...
> >> >> > Carl wrote:
> >> >> >> I'll take a shackle lift over a body lift any day. Body lift is
> >> >> >> ugly
> >> >> >> as
> >> >> >> hell, even at 1". Booo for body lift.
>
> >> >> >> Carl
>
> >> >> > I agree my boss had a 1.5 inch shackle lift on his YJ that cleared
> >> >> > 31's
> >> >> > without rubbing that lasted 40k miles or more before the POS 258
> >> >> > gave
> >> >> > up
> >> >> > around 125k... the lift was fine even on old original leafs. It
> >> >> > never
> >> >> > had
> >> >> > an alignment problem. I had roughly the same shackle lift on my YJ
> >> >> > for
> >> >> > 2
> >> >> > years and probably 35k miles without a single problem (it later got
> >> >> > a
> >> >> > real
> >> >> > spring lift to clear 33"s and later still some Heavy duty slightly
> >> >> > longer
> >> >> > than stock shackles (1/2" lift) to clear 35"s
>
> >> >> > No 1.5 inch lift should have problems... if you couldn't lift it
> >> >> > that
> >> >> > far
> >> >> > without needing to correct castor or drive line angles then we'd
> >> >> > have
> >> >> > millions of old Jeeps that can't be aligned because the old springs
> >> >> > settled an inch and a half. Mike loves making mountains out of mole
> >> >> > hills.
>
> >> >> > --
> >> >> > Simon
> >> >> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Carl

Ha. I ran the spring over for about 6 months untill I sold the YJ. If it's
done right, you'll love it. Don't buy a bolt-on kit. Check your angles and
measurements and weld. The rear pinion should point exactly to the t-case
output, minus 1 to 2 degrees. I upped my front pinion angle only 2 degrees
to try to keep as close to stock castor as possible.

I had the 2.5L and axlewrap was a nominal issue. My stock springs did
eventually need replacement. You can buy spring-over springs (reverse eye)
from Rubicon for around $100 each, and in either 1.5" lift or stock height.
This allows you to buy two at a time, and still be cheaper than a
spring-under lift.

I took 8 stock wrangler packs, and put the better mains in as mains, the
worse mains as added mains with the spring eyes cut off, an extra mid-leaf
in the rear, and an extra short leaf in each pack. This gave me 7 leaf rears
and 6 leaf fronts. The ride was exceptional, the cost was $40, and axlewrap
was eliminated.

The other problem you'll run into is the drag link grazing the passenger
side front leaf pack. I just didn't do anything about it. The spring shaved
a tiny amount of material from my drag link, thus provididing the needed
clearance.

HTH

Carl


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167674321.417328.197080@h40g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> That sounds like something I can handle - my dad's an engineer so he'd
> never let me not be really really careful when measuring anything. And
> I do have a welding guy - he trades welding jobs for being allowed to
> hunt on my friend's farm, pretty good tradeoff.
>
> I'm sold! Do you get commission on this or what?
>
> On Jan 1, 6:10 am, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>> It is a little involved, and you've got to be really careful to get your
>> axles centered an the correct pinion angles and castor. The costs are:
>> $40
>> for spring perches, $130 for shocks, $60 for a drop pitman arm, $40ish
>> for
>> U-bolts. $400 for an SYE (needed with a 4" spring lift as well). So
>> you're
>> looking at around $270 for the lifting. Longer brake lines are not needed
>> as
>> I have a few tricks that make your stockers PLENTY long. A YJ doesn't
>> need
>> trac bars front or rear, and the stock sway bar will reach for the road.
>>
>> The flex and ride are amazing, not to mention the added clearance below
>> the
>> axle. You gain nearly 2" below the axle, which is nearly the same
>> difference
>> you'll see between running 33" and 37" tires (under the axle at the
>> spring
>> perch).
>>
>> I would spring over on the stock axles, it's easy to replace them later
>> and
>> good practice to dial in your upgraded axles better. Definately have an
>> experianced welder do the welding.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in
>> messagenews:1167604065.042403.113390@42g2000cwt.go oglegroups.com...
>>
>> > I've always been intrigued by the SOA idea - I think if I did it I'd
>> > want to make it worth my while and upgrade the axles at the same time,
>> > but I'll worry about that later. I actually read the SOA write-up over
>> > at jedi.com last night - it sounds pretty involved. It might give me a
>> > reason to get a welder, though.
>>
>> > Jedi SOA write-up: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.html
>>
>> > Carl wrote:
>> >> The shackles will be fine. Once you do the 2.5" lift, you'll need to
>> >> get
>> >> some shims to correct your pinion angle, but you'll be fine. You
>> >> should
>> >> look
>> >> into doing a spring-over. Plush ride, awesome flex, and clears 33's
>> >> nicely.
>> >> The YJ pictured on the link from my previous post was sprung over on
>> >> 33's.
>> >> It's actually cheaper than a 4" lift for a YJ, and you net around 6".
>>
>> >> I think I'm the only spring-over advocate in this group, but if you
>> >> have
>> >> any
>> >> other questions I'll be happy to help.
>>
>> >> HTH
>>
>> >> Carl
>>
>> >> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >>news:1167602775.284073.253840@a3g2000cwd.googleg roups.com...
>> >> > They are cross-braced and very heavy-duty. We ordered the
>> >> > Performance
>> >> > Accesories set, but I think they sent us these:
>> >> >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101/Pr-p_Pro...
>> >> > the ones we ordered were supposed to be 1.75" lift, but I think
>> >> > these
>> >> > are about 1.5".
>>
>> >> > I'm thinking that I'll put these on for now, then later get
>> >> > something
>> >> > like a 2.5" lift to to bring it up to around 4". I don't see myself
>> >> > going over 33" tires until I get a bigger engine.
>>
>> >> > Thanks for the input, guys.
>> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> That is absolutely correct. My YJ had the shackles before I did the
>> >> >> spring-over, and was aligned just fine. Check out
>> >> >>http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/
>>
>> >> >> for pics of the old YJ to see the shackles. Just make sure they're
>> >> >> cross
>> >> >> braced and one piece and you'll be fine.
>>
>> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSS...@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com >
>> >> >> wrote
>> >> >> in
>> >> >> messagenews:I4CdnZHzEp2ZhAXYnZ2dnUVZ_oqmnZ2d@rcn.n et...
>> >> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> >> I'll take a shackle lift over a body lift any day. Body lift is
>> >> >> >> ugly
>> >> >> >> as
>> >> >> >> hell, even at 1". Booo for body lift.
>>
>> >> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> > I agree my boss had a 1.5 inch shackle lift on his YJ that
>> >> >> > cleared
>> >> >> > 31's
>> >> >> > without rubbing that lasted 40k miles or more before the POS 258
>> >> >> > gave
>> >> >> > up
>> >> >> > around 125k... the lift was fine even on old original leafs. It
>> >> >> > never
>> >> >> > had
>> >> >> > an alignment problem. I had roughly the same shackle lift on my
>> >> >> > YJ
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > 2
>> >> >> > years and probably 35k miles without a single problem (it later
>> >> >> > got
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > real
>> >> >> > spring lift to clear 33"s and later still some Heavy duty
>> >> >> > slightly
>> >> >> > longer
>> >> >> > than stock shackles (1/2" lift) to clear 35"s
>>
>> >> >> > No 1.5 inch lift should have problems... if you couldn't lift it
>> >> >> > that
>> >> >> > far
>> >> >> > without needing to correct castor or drive line angles then we'd
>> >> >> > have
>> >> >> > millions of old Jeeps that can't be aligned because the old
>> >> >> > springs
>> >> >> > settled an inch and a half. Mike loves making mountains out of
>> >> >> > mole
>> >> >> > hills.
>>
>> >> >> > --
>> >> >> > Simon
>> >> >> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

Carl

Ha. I ran the spring over for about 6 months untill I sold the YJ. If it's
done right, you'll love it. Don't buy a bolt-on kit. Check your angles and
measurements and weld. The rear pinion should point exactly to the t-case
output, minus 1 to 2 degrees. I upped my front pinion angle only 2 degrees
to try to keep as close to stock castor as possible.

I had the 2.5L and axlewrap was a nominal issue. My stock springs did
eventually need replacement. You can buy spring-over springs (reverse eye)
from Rubicon for around $100 each, and in either 1.5" lift or stock height.
This allows you to buy two at a time, and still be cheaper than a
spring-under lift.

I took 8 stock wrangler packs, and put the better mains in as mains, the
worse mains as added mains with the spring eyes cut off, an extra mid-leaf
in the rear, and an extra short leaf in each pack. This gave me 7 leaf rears
and 6 leaf fronts. The ride was exceptional, the cost was $40, and axlewrap
was eliminated.

The other problem you'll run into is the drag link grazing the passenger
side front leaf pack. I just didn't do anything about it. The spring shaved
a tiny amount of material from my drag link, thus provididing the needed
clearance.

HTH

Carl


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167674321.417328.197080@h40g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> That sounds like something I can handle - my dad's an engineer so he'd
> never let me not be really really careful when measuring anything. And
> I do have a welding guy - he trades welding jobs for being allowed to
> hunt on my friend's farm, pretty good tradeoff.
>
> I'm sold! Do you get commission on this or what?
>
> On Jan 1, 6:10 am, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>> It is a little involved, and you've got to be really careful to get your
>> axles centered an the correct pinion angles and castor. The costs are:
>> $40
>> for spring perches, $130 for shocks, $60 for a drop pitman arm, $40ish
>> for
>> U-bolts. $400 for an SYE (needed with a 4" spring lift as well). So
>> you're
>> looking at around $270 for the lifting. Longer brake lines are not needed
>> as
>> I have a few tricks that make your stockers PLENTY long. A YJ doesn't
>> need
>> trac bars front or rear, and the stock sway bar will reach for the road.
>>
>> The flex and ride are amazing, not to mention the added clearance below
>> the
>> axle. You gain nearly 2" below the axle, which is nearly the same
>> difference
>> you'll see between running 33" and 37" tires (under the axle at the
>> spring
>> perch).
>>
>> I would spring over on the stock axles, it's easy to replace them later
>> and
>> good practice to dial in your upgraded axles better. Definately have an
>> experianced welder do the welding.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in
>> messagenews:1167604065.042403.113390@42g2000cwt.go oglegroups.com...
>>
>> > I've always been intrigued by the SOA idea - I think if I did it I'd
>> > want to make it worth my while and upgrade the axles at the same time,
>> > but I'll worry about that later. I actually read the SOA write-up over
>> > at jedi.com last night - it sounds pretty involved. It might give me a
>> > reason to get a welder, though.
>>
>> > Jedi SOA write-up: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.html
>>
>> > Carl wrote:
>> >> The shackles will be fine. Once you do the 2.5" lift, you'll need to
>> >> get
>> >> some shims to correct your pinion angle, but you'll be fine. You
>> >> should
>> >> look
>> >> into doing a spring-over. Plush ride, awesome flex, and clears 33's
>> >> nicely.
>> >> The YJ pictured on the link from my previous post was sprung over on
>> >> 33's.
>> >> It's actually cheaper than a 4" lift for a YJ, and you net around 6".
>>
>> >> I think I'm the only spring-over advocate in this group, but if you
>> >> have
>> >> any
>> >> other questions I'll be happy to help.
>>
>> >> HTH
>>
>> >> Carl
>>
>> >> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >>news:1167602775.284073.253840@a3g2000cwd.googleg roups.com...
>> >> > They are cross-braced and very heavy-duty. We ordered the
>> >> > Performance
>> >> > Accesories set, but I think they sent us these:
>> >> >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101/Pr-p_Pro...
>> >> > the ones we ordered were supposed to be 1.75" lift, but I think
>> >> > these
>> >> > are about 1.5".
>>
>> >> > I'm thinking that I'll put these on for now, then later get
>> >> > something
>> >> > like a 2.5" lift to to bring it up to around 4". I don't see myself
>> >> > going over 33" tires until I get a bigger engine.
>>
>> >> > Thanks for the input, guys.
>> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> That is absolutely correct. My YJ had the shackles before I did the
>> >> >> spring-over, and was aligned just fine. Check out
>> >> >>http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/
>>
>> >> >> for pics of the old YJ to see the shackles. Just make sure they're
>> >> >> cross
>> >> >> braced and one piece and you'll be fine.
>>
>> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSS...@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com >
>> >> >> wrote
>> >> >> in
>> >> >> messagenews:I4CdnZHzEp2ZhAXYnZ2dnUVZ_oqmnZ2d@rcn.n et...
>> >> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> >> I'll take a shackle lift over a body lift any day. Body lift is
>> >> >> >> ugly
>> >> >> >> as
>> >> >> >> hell, even at 1". Booo for body lift.
>>
>> >> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> > I agree my boss had a 1.5 inch shackle lift on his YJ that
>> >> >> > cleared
>> >> >> > 31's
>> >> >> > without rubbing that lasted 40k miles or more before the POS 258
>> >> >> > gave
>> >> >> > up
>> >> >> > around 125k... the lift was fine even on old original leafs. It
>> >> >> > never
>> >> >> > had
>> >> >> > an alignment problem. I had roughly the same shackle lift on my
>> >> >> > YJ
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > 2
>> >> >> > years and probably 35k miles without a single problem (it later
>> >> >> > got
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > real
>> >> >> > spring lift to clear 33"s and later still some Heavy duty
>> >> >> > slightly
>> >> >> > longer
>> >> >> > than stock shackles (1/2" lift) to clear 35"s
>>
>> >> >> > No 1.5 inch lift should have problems... if you couldn't lift it
>> >> >> > that
>> >> >> > far
>> >> >> > without needing to correct castor or drive line angles then we'd
>> >> >> > have
>> >> >> > millions of old Jeeps that can't be aligned because the old
>> >> >> > springs
>> >> >> > settled an inch and a half. Mike loves making mountains out of
>> >> >> > mole
>> >> >> > hills.
>>
>> >> >> > --
>> >> >> > Simon
>> >> >> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

Carl

Ha. I ran the spring over for about 6 months untill I sold the YJ. If it's
done right, you'll love it. Don't buy a bolt-on kit. Check your angles and
measurements and weld. The rear pinion should point exactly to the t-case
output, minus 1 to 2 degrees. I upped my front pinion angle only 2 degrees
to try to keep as close to stock castor as possible.

I had the 2.5L and axlewrap was a nominal issue. My stock springs did
eventually need replacement. You can buy spring-over springs (reverse eye)
from Rubicon for around $100 each, and in either 1.5" lift or stock height.
This allows you to buy two at a time, and still be cheaper than a
spring-under lift.

I took 8 stock wrangler packs, and put the better mains in as mains, the
worse mains as added mains with the spring eyes cut off, an extra mid-leaf
in the rear, and an extra short leaf in each pack. This gave me 7 leaf rears
and 6 leaf fronts. The ride was exceptional, the cost was $40, and axlewrap
was eliminated.

The other problem you'll run into is the drag link grazing the passenger
side front leaf pack. I just didn't do anything about it. The spring shaved
a tiny amount of material from my drag link, thus provididing the needed
clearance.

HTH

Carl


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167674321.417328.197080@h40g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> That sounds like something I can handle - my dad's an engineer so he'd
> never let me not be really really careful when measuring anything. And
> I do have a welding guy - he trades welding jobs for being allowed to
> hunt on my friend's farm, pretty good tradeoff.
>
> I'm sold! Do you get commission on this or what?
>
> On Jan 1, 6:10 am, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>> It is a little involved, and you've got to be really careful to get your
>> axles centered an the correct pinion angles and castor. The costs are:
>> $40
>> for spring perches, $130 for shocks, $60 for a drop pitman arm, $40ish
>> for
>> U-bolts. $400 for an SYE (needed with a 4" spring lift as well). So
>> you're
>> looking at around $270 for the lifting. Longer brake lines are not needed
>> as
>> I have a few tricks that make your stockers PLENTY long. A YJ doesn't
>> need
>> trac bars front or rear, and the stock sway bar will reach for the road.
>>
>> The flex and ride are amazing, not to mention the added clearance below
>> the
>> axle. You gain nearly 2" below the axle, which is nearly the same
>> difference
>> you'll see between running 33" and 37" tires (under the axle at the
>> spring
>> perch).
>>
>> I would spring over on the stock axles, it's easy to replace them later
>> and
>> good practice to dial in your upgraded axles better. Definately have an
>> experianced welder do the welding.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in
>> messagenews:1167604065.042403.113390@42g2000cwt.go oglegroups.com...
>>
>> > I've always been intrigued by the SOA idea - I think if I did it I'd
>> > want to make it worth my while and upgrade the axles at the same time,
>> > but I'll worry about that later. I actually read the SOA write-up over
>> > at jedi.com last night - it sounds pretty involved. It might give me a
>> > reason to get a welder, though.
>>
>> > Jedi SOA write-up: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.html
>>
>> > Carl wrote:
>> >> The shackles will be fine. Once you do the 2.5" lift, you'll need to
>> >> get
>> >> some shims to correct your pinion angle, but you'll be fine. You
>> >> should
>> >> look
>> >> into doing a spring-over. Plush ride, awesome flex, and clears 33's
>> >> nicely.
>> >> The YJ pictured on the link from my previous post was sprung over on
>> >> 33's.
>> >> It's actually cheaper than a 4" lift for a YJ, and you net around 6".
>>
>> >> I think I'm the only spring-over advocate in this group, but if you
>> >> have
>> >> any
>> >> other questions I'll be happy to help.
>>
>> >> HTH
>>
>> >> Carl
>>
>> >> "The Merg" <greg.merg...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >>news:1167602775.284073.253840@a3g2000cwd.googleg roups.com...
>> >> > They are cross-braced and very heavy-duty. We ordered the
>> >> > Performance
>> >> > Accesories set, but I think they sent us these:
>> >> >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10101/Pr-p_Pro...
>> >> > the ones we ordered were supposed to be 1.75" lift, but I think
>> >> > these
>> >> > are about 1.5".
>>
>> >> > I'm thinking that I'll put these on for now, then later get
>> >> > something
>> >> > like a 2.5" lift to to bring it up to around 4". I don't see myself
>> >> > going over 33" tires until I get a bigger engine.
>>
>> >> > Thanks for the input, guys.
>> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> That is absolutely correct. My YJ had the shackles before I did the
>> >> >> spring-over, and was aligned just fine. Check out
>> >> >>http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/
>>
>> >> >> for pics of the old YJ to see the shackles. Just make sure they're
>> >> >> cross
>> >> >> braced and one piece and you'll be fine.
>>
>> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSS...@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com >
>> >> >> wrote
>> >> >> in
>> >> >> messagenews:I4CdnZHzEp2ZhAXYnZ2dnUVZ_oqmnZ2d@rcn.n et...
>> >> >> > Carl wrote:
>> >> >> >> I'll take a shackle lift over a body lift any day. Body lift is
>> >> >> >> ugly
>> >> >> >> as
>> >> >> >> hell, even at 1". Booo for body lift.
>>
>> >> >> >> Carl
>>
>> >> >> > I agree my boss had a 1.5 inch shackle lift on his YJ that
>> >> >> > cleared
>> >> >> > 31's
>> >> >> > without rubbing that lasted 40k miles or more before the POS 258
>> >> >> > gave
>> >> >> > up
>> >> >> > around 125k... the lift was fine even on old original leafs. It
>> >> >> > never
>> >> >> > had
>> >> >> > an alignment problem. I had roughly the same shackle lift on my
>> >> >> > YJ
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > 2
>> >> >> > years and probably 35k miles without a single problem (it later
>> >> >> > got
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > real
>> >> >> > spring lift to clear 33"s and later still some Heavy duty
>> >> >> > slightly
>> >> >> > longer
>> >> >> > than stock shackles (1/2" lift) to clear 35"s
>>
>> >> >> > No 1.5 inch lift should have problems... if you couldn't lift it
>> >> >> > that
>> >> >> > far
>> >> >> > without needing to correct castor or drive line angles then we'd
>> >> >> > have
>> >> >> > millions of old Jeeps that can't be aligned because the old
>> >> >> > springs
>> >> >> > settled an inch and a half. Mike loves making mountains out of
>> >> >> > mole
>> >> >> > hills.
>>
>> >> >> > --
>> >> >> > Simon
>> >> >> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

Carl

Nice work. I'll keep that in mind if I go the XJ route on my next wheeler.

Carl


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:TKWdnRcmGMlFiATYnZ2dnUVZ_qKknZ2d@rcn.net...
> Carl wrote:
>> Simon,
>>
>> Looks really nice. Did you re-weld the pinch welds in the rear
>> fenderwells?
>
> Spot welded and automotive panel adhesive as seam sealer. Which didn't
> quite end up 100% waterproof. The whole rear is getting re-done and tig
> welded soon because of that. The rear lower quarters were folded up if you
> look closely they are about 4 inches higher clearance than stock (they
> were rusty so it serves a dual purpose). The rear inside liner didn't have
> to be messed with at all, so those inner structural pinch seams are still
> intact.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Carl

Nice work. I'll keep that in mind if I go the XJ route on my next wheeler.

Carl


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:TKWdnRcmGMlFiATYnZ2dnUVZ_qKknZ2d@rcn.net...
> Carl wrote:
>> Simon,
>>
>> Looks really nice. Did you re-weld the pinch welds in the rear
>> fenderwells?
>
> Spot welded and automotive panel adhesive as seam sealer. Which didn't
> quite end up 100% waterproof. The whole rear is getting re-done and tig
> welded soon because of that. The rear lower quarters were folded up if you
> look closely they are about 4 inches higher clearance than stock (they
> were rusty so it serves a dual purpose). The rear inside liner didn't have
> to be messed with at all, so those inner structural pinch seams are still
> intact.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Carl

Nice work. I'll keep that in mind if I go the XJ route on my next wheeler.

Carl


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:TKWdnRcmGMlFiATYnZ2dnUVZ_qKknZ2d@rcn.net...
> Carl wrote:
>> Simon,
>>
>> Looks really nice. Did you re-weld the pinch welds in the rear
>> fenderwells?
>
> Spot welded and automotive panel adhesive as seam sealer. Which didn't
> quite end up 100% waterproof. The whole rear is getting re-done and tig
> welded soon because of that. The rear lower quarters were folded up if you
> look closely they are about 4 inches higher clearance than stock (they
> were rusty so it serves a dual purpose). The rear inside liner didn't have
> to be messed with at all, so those inner structural pinch seams are still
> intact.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

The Merg

I'm assuming you mean $400 for four spring packs from Rubicon? Or did
you just have them laying around?
What would you say was your final cost with spring packs, SYE,
driveshaft, etc.?
Do you think the draglink could be moved up or down to eliminate the
rubbing? Or should I just grind it down a little?


On Jan 1, 4:14 pm, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
> Ha. I ran the spring over for about 6 months untill I sold the YJ. If it's
> done right, you'll love it. Don't buy a bolt-on kit. Check your angles and
> measurements and weld. The rear pinion should point exactly to the t-case
> output, minus 1 to 2 degrees. I upped my front pinion angle only 2 degrees
> to try to keep as close to stock castor as possible.
>
> I had the 2.5L and axlewrap was a nominal issue. My stock springs did
> eventually need replacement. You can buy spring-over springs (reverse eye)
> from Rubicon for around $100 each, and in either 1.5" lift or stock height.
> This allows you to buy two at a time, and still be cheaper than a
> spring-under lift.
>
> I took 8 stock wrangler packs, and put the better mains in as mains, the
> worse mains as added mains with the spring eyes cut off, an extra mid-leaf
> in the rear, and an extra short leaf in each pack. This gave me 7 leaf rears
> and 6 leaf fronts. The ride was exceptional, the cost was $40, and axlewrap
> was eliminated.
>
> The other problem you'll run into is the drag link grazing the passenger
> side front leaf pack. I just didn't do anything about it. The spring shaved
> a tiny amount of material from my drag link, thus provididing the needed
> clearance.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>

The Merg

I'm assuming you mean $400 for four spring packs from Rubicon? Or did
you just have them laying around?
What would you say was your final cost with spring packs, SYE,
driveshaft, etc.?
Do you think the draglink could be moved up or down to eliminate the
rubbing? Or should I just grind it down a little?


On Jan 1, 4:14 pm, "Carl" <carlsai...@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
> Ha. I ran the spring over for about 6 months untill I sold the YJ. If it's
> done right, you'll love it. Don't buy a bolt-on kit. Check your angles and
> measurements and weld. The rear pinion should point exactly to the t-case
> output, minus 1 to 2 degrees. I upped my front pinion angle only 2 degrees
> to try to keep as close to stock castor as possible.
>
> I had the 2.5L and axlewrap was a nominal issue. My stock springs did
> eventually need replacement. You can buy spring-over springs (reverse eye)
> from Rubicon for around $100 each, and in either 1.5" lift or stock height.
> This allows you to buy two at a time, and still be cheaper than a
> spring-under lift.
>
> I took 8 stock wrangler packs, and put the better mains in as mains, the
> worse mains as added mains with the spring eyes cut off, an extra mid-leaf
> in the rear, and an extra short leaf in each pack. This gave me 7 leaf rears
> and 6 leaf fronts. The ride was exceptional, the cost was $40, and axlewrap
> was eliminated.
>
> The other problem you'll run into is the drag link grazing the passenger
> side front leaf pack. I just didn't do anything about it. The spring shaved
> a tiny amount of material from my drag link, thus provididing the needed
> clearance.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>