On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:42:27 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> On 12 Dec 2003 21:57:31 GMT, jianryla@aol.com (Jim Boucher) wrote:
>>
>> >In article <jm6ktvgamh8u7i569d7p1fme9p47s7bvuc@4ax.com>, Jeepster
>> ><me@excite.com> writes:
>> >
>> >>You use higher vac until you get to 155 deg then it switches your vac
>> >>advance over to ported when the switch kicks in. Correct?
>> >>
>> >
>> >Correct.
>> >I removed the coolant temp. sensor that's located at the forward end of the
>> >intake manifold. In it's place, I inserted a 155° 3-way CTO switch and
>> >connected ported and manifold vacuum hoses to the switch; the third connection
>> >going to the distributor.
>> >After I had done the nutter, it just wouldn't idle nicely when cold using
>> >ported vacuum (essensially 0" at idle). Runs like a champ now.
>> >
>> >BTW, I like the solenoid idea. I was thinking of doing that for winching
>> >operations.
>> >Jim
>> >
>> >88 Grand Wagoneer
>> >89 Wrangler
>> >00 Grand Cherokee
>>
>> I was playing with the sol-vac and the new switch today and found I
>> can get it to idle anywhere from 900 to 1400 rpm, I just achieve the
>> idle point I want and then flick on the switch. From what I have read
>> the sol-vac doesn't have enough power to open the throttle but it can
>> hold it where ever you set it....... now I have to quit playing with
>> it at stop lights :). I also wired my carb/intake manifold heater to
>> the same switch bank and on the really cold days I can flick it on for
>> a few minutes and get the vapors in the intake nice and warm before
>> starting it. I'm not sure where you live but it can get to -40 Deg C
>> here in Alberta and my vehicle sits out in the open when I'm at work
>> for up to 13 hours, it's my version of a glow plug.
>>
>> Thanks for the info I might consider trying the cto thing out when I
>> get a chance.
>>
>> http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
>
>
>That's neat, never though of that for a 'hand throttle'. I will pass
>that on to others for sure. I even have my old one kicking around and
>likely will put it back on.
>
>That would be a great thing to have when the idle tubes plug up and it
>won't idle for crap but runs good over 1200 rpm or for winching.
>
>I got a manual choke kit from Canadian Tire and put it in mine. That
>way I can drive away in the real cold without having to 3 foot drive the
>thing until it warms up. The electric choke is just a plain timer that
>goes off according to how long it has had 12 volts, no matter the real
>temp.
>
>I can set a fast idle by pulling on the choke when I have the pedal down
>where I want it, then letting off the pedal and pushing the choke back
>in. It stays on the fast idle cam until I blip the gas pedal.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.

I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
is thinking.

I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
but as an opportunity. :)

 

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:42:27 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> On 12 Dec 2003 21:57:31 GMT, jianryla@aol.com (Jim Boucher) wrote:
>>
>> >In article <jm6ktvgamh8u7i569d7p1fme9p47s7bvuc@4ax.com>, Jeepster
>> ><me@excite.com> writes:
>> >
>> >>You use higher vac until you get to 155 deg then it switches your vac
>> >>advance over to ported when the switch kicks in. Correct?
>> >>
>> >
>> >Correct.
>> >I removed the coolant temp. sensor that's located at the forward end of the
>> >intake manifold. In it's place, I inserted a 155° 3-way CTO switch and
>> >connected ported and manifold vacuum hoses to the switch; the third connection
>> >going to the distributor.
>> >After I had done the nutter, it just wouldn't idle nicely when cold using
>> >ported vacuum (essensially 0" at idle). Runs like a champ now.
>> >
>> >BTW, I like the solenoid idea. I was thinking of doing that for winching
>> >operations.
>> >Jim
>> >
>> >88 Grand Wagoneer
>> >89 Wrangler
>> >00 Grand Cherokee
>>
>> I was playing with the sol-vac and the new switch today and found I
>> can get it to idle anywhere from 900 to 1400 rpm, I just achieve the
>> idle point I want and then flick on the switch. From what I have read
>> the sol-vac doesn't have enough power to open the throttle but it can
>> hold it where ever you set it....... now I have to quit playing with
>> it at stop lights :). I also wired my carb/intake manifold heater to
>> the same switch bank and on the really cold days I can flick it on for
>> a few minutes and get the vapors in the intake nice and warm before
>> starting it. I'm not sure where you live but it can get to -40 Deg C
>> here in Alberta and my vehicle sits out in the open when I'm at work
>> for up to 13 hours, it's my version of a glow plug.
>>
>> Thanks for the info I might consider trying the cto thing out when I
>> get a chance.
>>
>> http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
>
>
>That's neat, never though of that for a 'hand throttle'. I will pass
>that on to others for sure. I even have my old one kicking around and
>likely will put it back on.
>
>That would be a great thing to have when the idle tubes plug up and it
>won't idle for crap but runs good over 1200 rpm or for winching.
>
>I got a manual choke kit from Canadian Tire and put it in mine. That
>way I can drive away in the real cold without having to 3 foot drive the
>thing until it warms up. The electric choke is just a plain timer that
>goes off according to how long it has had 12 volts, no matter the real
>temp.
>
>I can set a fast idle by pulling on the choke when I have the pedal down
>where I want it, then letting off the pedal and pushing the choke back
>in. It stays on the fast idle cam until I blip the gas pedal.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.

I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
is thinking.

I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
but as an opportunity. :)

 

Jeepster did pass the time by typing:

> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>
> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
> is thinking.
>
> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
> but as an opportunity. :)

Hmm..

A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
the solinoid.
/ (NC thermal switch)
Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
gnd>----|<|-----------'
12Vled (indicates sol on)

I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.

Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
power only when the IGNition is on.

YMMV.

--
DougW

 

Jeepster did pass the time by typing:

> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>
> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
> is thinking.
>
> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
> but as an opportunity. :)

Hmm..

A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
the solinoid.
/ (NC thermal switch)
Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
gnd>----|<|-----------'
12Vled (indicates sol on)

I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.

Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
power only when the IGNition is on.

YMMV.

--
DougW

 

Jeepster did pass the time by typing:

> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>
> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
> is thinking.
>
> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
> but as an opportunity. :)

Hmm..

A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
the solinoid.
/ (NC thermal switch)
Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
gnd>----|<|-----------'
12Vled (indicates sol on)

I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.

Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
power only when the IGNition is on.

YMMV.

--
DougW

 

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:34:29 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

>Jeepster did pass the time by typing:
>
>> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
>> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>>
>> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
>> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
>> is thinking.
>>
>> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
>> but as an opportunity. :)
>
>Hmm..
>
>A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
>is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
>the solinoid.
> / (NC thermal switch)
>Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
> gnd>----|<|-----------'
> 12Vled (indicates sol on)
>
>I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
>You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
>temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
>flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
>(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.
>
>Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
>go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
>power only when the IGNition is on.
>
>YMMV.

I will save this one in my archives also....thanks

 

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:34:29 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

>Jeepster did pass the time by typing:
>
>> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
>> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>>
>> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
>> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
>> is thinking.
>>
>> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
>> but as an opportunity. :)
>
>Hmm..
>
>A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
>is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
>the solinoid.
> / (NC thermal switch)
>Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
> gnd>----|<|-----------'
> 12Vled (indicates sol on)
>
>I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
>You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
>temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
>flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
>(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.
>
>Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
>go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
>power only when the IGNition is on.
>
>YMMV.

I will save this one in my archives also....thanks

 

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:34:29 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

>Jeepster did pass the time by typing:
>
>> Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work
>> in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.
>>
>> I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so
>> that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who
>> is thinking.
>>
>> I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood
>> but as an opportunity. :)
>
>Hmm..
>
>A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that
>is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange
>the solinoid.
> / (NC thermal switch)
>Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol
> gnd>----|<|-----------'
> 12Vled (indicates sol on)
>
>I'd have to reasearch more but I think that's about it.
>You flip the switch, as long as the ignition is on and the
>temp is below what the thermal switch is set at, current
>flows to the solinoid and back to an indicator
>(12 V LED in this case) possibly even built into the switch.
>
>Soon as it warms up, the thermal switch opens, the sol and led
>go out. You could actually leave this circuit on since it draws
>power only when the IGNition is on.
>
>YMMV.

I will save this one in my archives also....thanks