'79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
the clamping/bolting parts.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> > to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> > Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >
> > I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >
> > I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >
> > The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> > flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> > tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> > runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> > should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> > housing.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Hello all,
> >>
> >>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>
> >>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>works better then other things ?
> >>
> >>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>
> >>Ron
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
for my ZJ draglink.)
thanks,
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> the clamping/bolting parts.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>
>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>
>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>
>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>housing.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hello all,
>>>>
>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>
>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>
>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>
>>>>Ron
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
I just have a universal one on. It has a clamp for the pipe and a strap
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
I just have a universal one on. It has a clamp for the pipe and a strap
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
I just have a universal one on. It has a clamp for the pipe and a strap
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
muffler guy grumbling about...
It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
'donut' joint stays put.
I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
Mike
Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
> what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>
> (You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
> for my ZJ draglink.)
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
> > have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
> > shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
> > the clamping/bolting parts.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >
> >>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
> >>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
> >>
> >>Ron
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
> >>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
> >>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
> >>>
> >>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
> >>>
> >>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
> >>>
> >>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
> >>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
> >>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
> >>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
> >>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
> >>>housing.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Hello all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
> >>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
> >>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
> >>>>
> >>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
> >>>>works better then other things ?
> >>>>
> >>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
> >>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
> >>>>
> >>>>Ron
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '79 CJ5 intake/exhaust manifold gasket
If it is opretty straight forward then that's ok.
I have been fighting an exhaust leak several times. Soo that hanger
missing might be the problem.
btw, are there some tricks to get the pipe of the manyfold ? other then
soak it in oil for a while and use an airgun ?
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> I just have a universal one on. It has a clamp for the pipe and a strap
> with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
> bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
> muffler guy grumbling about...
>
> It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
> 'donut' joint stays put.
>
> I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
>
> Mike
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>>
>>(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
>>for my ZJ draglink.)
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
>>>have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
>>>shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
>>>the clamping/bolting parts.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>>>
>>>>Ron
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>>>
>>>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>>>
>>>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>>>
>>>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>>>housing.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hello all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ron
I have been fighting an exhaust leak several times. Soo that hanger
missing might be the problem.
btw, are there some tricks to get the pipe of the manyfold ? other then
soak it in oil for a while and use an airgun ?
Ron
Mike Romain wrote:
> I just have a universal one on. It has a clamp for the pipe and a strap
> with holes punched in it. I used a large washer on either side and one
> bell housing bolt. I believe there is a stock bracket I once heard the
> muffler guy grumbling about...
>
> It just keeps the pipe moving in tune with the engine so the manifold
> 'donut' joint stays put.
>
> I could take a photo and email it to you if you would like.
>
> Mike
>
> Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>
>>what does the hanger near teh bellhousing look like ?
>>
>>(You guys have been very helpfull in sending links to pictures
>>for my ZJ draglink.)
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Ron
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Yes, you can use one of those rubber strap type universal hangers. I
>>>have compared the auto parts stores hangers with ones from a muffler
>>>shop and the muffler shop ones are thicker rubber and thicker metal for
>>>the clamping/bolting parts.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Ahhh...ok... I think I am missing that hanger near the bellhousing. (I
>>>>am pretty sure it is missing. Can those be found after market ?
>>>>
>>>>Ron
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>All the ones I have seen will tighten up just fine. There is a pattern
>>>>>to tightening it down, the same as if you were doing a head gasket.
>>>>>Start in the middle and do a circular spiral pattern out to the ends.
>>>>>
>>>>>I also find they need a second torque down after running it for a while.
>>>>>
>>>>>I think I used a 'felpro' (sp?) gasket.
>>>>>
>>>>>The exhaust pipe fitting might have a donut gasket, but most don't. The
>>>>>flange is preformed on the manifold. The trick to keeping that one
>>>>>tight is to have a good solid hanger at the bell housing. If the pipe
>>>>>runs free to the muffler, it will be swingy and always leak. There
>>>>>should be a hanger right by the clutch bell crank linkage on the bell
>>>>>housing.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>Ron Croonenberg wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hello all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I know that a permanent solution for intake/exhaust manifold leaks is to
>>>>>>go to headers. But I want to do an engine swap at some point so I want
>>>>>>to mess with it for a bit longer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Is there some specific gasket, or something else, one can use/do that
>>>>>>works better then other things ?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I have a leak between manifold and engine and/or exhaust manifold and
>>>>>>exhaust pipe (probably both)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ron