Simon Juncal

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.

Ford TFI mod is easier than GM HEI, and the only real qualified opinions
I've found on the net say that TFI was marginally better than HEI. In
any case it's WAY easier just a cap, rotor, base adapter (allows the
larger cap to fit on the late CJ and YJ motorcraft distributor and
either a TFI coil or not (it works with the stock coil or a TFI coil)
I managed 39.99 for a reman motorcraft at Autozone, just the base.

That said when you did the timing chain did you check your cam for
looseness in its bearings? The up/down play could be either the gear or
the cam (or the gear on the cam) likely it's just your gear. definitely
swap that gear out it's not hard at all just remember to mark the rotor
position before AND immediately after you take it out... When you
reinstall point it to the after mark to compensate for the gear
rotation, you'll know for dead certain you didn't get it off a tooth...
if you are comfortable finding TDC then never mind, I always feel 99
percent sure it's at TDC repeat the process a half dozen times and never
really feel 100% So I like having the reference marks.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.

Ford TFI mod is easier than GM HEI, and the only real qualified opinions
I've found on the net say that TFI was marginally better than HEI. In
any case it's WAY easier just a cap, rotor, base adapter (allows the
larger cap to fit on the late CJ and YJ motorcraft distributor and
either a TFI coil or not (it works with the stock coil or a TFI coil)
I managed 39.99 for a reman motorcraft at Autozone, just the base.

That said when you did the timing chain did you check your cam for
looseness in its bearings? The up/down play could be either the gear or
the cam (or the gear on the cam) likely it's just your gear. definitely
swap that gear out it's not hard at all just remember to mark the rotor
position before AND immediately after you take it out... When you
reinstall point it to the after mark to compensate for the gear
rotation, you'll know for dead certain you didn't get it off a tooth...
if you are comfortable finding TDC then never mind, I always feel 99
percent sure it's at TDC repeat the process a half dozen times and never
really feel 100% So I like having the reference marks.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Simon Juncal

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.

Ford TFI mod is easier than GM HEI, and the only real qualified opinions
I've found on the net say that TFI was marginally better than HEI. In
any case it's WAY easier just a cap, rotor, base adapter (allows the
larger cap to fit on the late CJ and YJ motorcraft distributor and
either a TFI coil or not (it works with the stock coil or a TFI coil)
I managed 39.99 for a reman motorcraft at Autozone, just the base.

That said when you did the timing chain did you check your cam for
looseness in its bearings? The up/down play could be either the gear or
the cam (or the gear on the cam) likely it's just your gear. definitely
swap that gear out it's not hard at all just remember to mark the rotor
position before AND immediately after you take it out... When you
reinstall point it to the after mark to compensate for the gear
rotation, you'll know for dead certain you didn't get it off a tooth...
if you are comfortable finding TDC then never mind, I always feel 99
percent sure it's at TDC repeat the process a half dozen times and never
really feel 100% So I like having the reference marks.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Mike Romain

I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.

If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
see a mist if anything.

I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.

This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
from the outside easily.

One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
they run out of gas too often.

I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
with a dirty carb.

Mike

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> > rotor is hitting the cap...
> >
> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> > intermittent spark.
> >
> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> > have a blocked idle tube.
> >
> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> >
> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
> >
> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mark wrote:
> > >
> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?

Mike Romain

I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.

If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
see a mist if anything.

I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.

This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
from the outside easily.

One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
they run out of gas too often.

I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
with a dirty carb.

Mike

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> > rotor is hitting the cap...
> >
> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> > intermittent spark.
> >
> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> > have a blocked idle tube.
> >
> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> >
> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
> >
> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mark wrote:
> > >
> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?

Mike Romain

I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.

If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
see a mist if anything.

I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.

This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
from the outside easily.

One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
they run out of gas too often.

I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
with a dirty carb.

Mike

mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>
> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
> there could be another problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> > rotor is hitting the cap...
> >
> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> > intermittent spark.
> >
> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> > have a blocked idle tube.
> >
> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> >
> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
> >
> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mark wrote:
> > >
> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?

mark

I think you are on to something, today I looked down the throat and the
venturi tubes are constantly letting out drops of fuel. This is something I
did not check right after the carb rebuild. One other thing I should mention
after the engine warms up to operating temp. it will idle although rough.
Could the electric intake manofold heater be a culprit as well. The heat
stove is also long gone as is the charcoal canister and all other emmission
control devices.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4576DEB3.B790E6E4@sympatico.ca...
>I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
> plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.
>
> If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
> the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
> coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
> see a mist if anything.
>
> I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
> to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
> filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
> shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.
>
> This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
> replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
> the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
> the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
> from the outside easily.
>
> One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
> some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
> going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
> it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
> put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
> they run out of gas too often.
>
> I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
> light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
> would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
> mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
> light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
> with a dirty carb.
>
> Mike
>
> mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
>> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
>> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
>> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
>> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
>> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
>> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
>> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
>> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
>> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
>> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
>> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
>> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
>> there could be another problem.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
>> > rotor is hitting the cap...
>> >
>> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
>> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
>> > intermittent spark.
>> >
>> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
>> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
>> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did
>> > indeed
>> > have a blocked idle tube.
>> >
>> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>> >
>> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>> >
>> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
>> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
>> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
>> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > mark wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
>> > > but
>> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
>> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
>> > > gapped to
>> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
>> > > shaft
>> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and
>> > > down, 1/8"
>> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes
>> > > manual
>> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace.
>> > > What do
>> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI
>> > > from a
>> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?

mark

I think you are on to something, today I looked down the throat and the
venturi tubes are constantly letting out drops of fuel. This is something I
did not check right after the carb rebuild. One other thing I should mention
after the engine warms up to operating temp. it will idle although rough.
Could the electric intake manofold heater be a culprit as well. The heat
stove is also long gone as is the charcoal canister and all other emmission
control devices.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4576DEB3.B790E6E4@sympatico.ca...
>I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
> plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.
>
> If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
> the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
> coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
> see a mist if anything.
>
> I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
> to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
> filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
> shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.
>
> This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
> replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
> the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
> the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
> from the outside easily.
>
> One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
> some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
> going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
> it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
> put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
> they run out of gas too often.
>
> I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
> light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
> would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
> mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
> light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
> with a dirty carb.
>
> Mike
>
> mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
>> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
>> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
>> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
>> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
>> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
>> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
>> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
>> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
>> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
>> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
>> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
>> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
>> there could be another problem.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
>> > rotor is hitting the cap...
>> >
>> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
>> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
>> > intermittent spark.
>> >
>> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
>> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
>> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did
>> > indeed
>> > have a blocked idle tube.
>> >
>> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>> >
>> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>> >
>> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
>> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
>> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
>> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > mark wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
>> > > but
>> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
>> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
>> > > gapped to
>> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
>> > > shaft
>> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and
>> > > down, 1/8"
>> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes
>> > > manual
>> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace.
>> > > What do
>> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI
>> > > from a
>> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?

mark

I think you are on to something, today I looked down the throat and the
venturi tubes are constantly letting out drops of fuel. This is something I
did not check right after the carb rebuild. One other thing I should mention
after the engine warms up to operating temp. it will idle although rough.
Could the electric intake manofold heater be a culprit as well. The heat
stove is also long gone as is the charcoal canister and all other emmission
control devices.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4576DEB3.B790E6E4@sympatico.ca...
>I would be doing a double check on the idle tubes. You are describing
> plugged ones or maybe a stuck float.
>
> If you watch down the throat of the carb while using your hand to keep
> the throttle up enough to run, you shouldn't see any 'drops' of fuel
> coming out the venturi tubes as you give it more gas. You should only
> see a mist if anything.
>
> I have found a couple sneaky dirt collectors that allows the idle tubes
> to get plugged up despite a good gas filter. One is the tube from the
> filter to the carb. When the vehicle sits, the gas evaporates in this U
> shaped gas line and leaves crud behind.
>
> This crud also builds up on the float needle slider. I need to clean or
> replace my float needle every couple years at the tops. When it sticks,
> the engine won't idle, it needs half throttle to go. Again a look into
> the carb at idle can tell you. At least the needle and seat come out
> from the outside easily.
>
> One other source of junk that plugs idle tubes, is charcoal bits. For
> some reason if you rn out of gas, the extra suction needed to get it
> going again seems to suck charcoal up from the canister which deposits
> it into the float chamber. Some folks with wonky gas gauges actually
> put a gas filter on this vent line to the canister to stop this because
> they run out of gas too often.
>
> I don't know how those plug 'testers' work. I do know that an induction
> light will show bad/no/intermittent spark when the carb acts up. I
> would suspect the tester uses an LED for flashing which would likely
> mean it is induction based, not in series with the plug. My induction
> light was an expensive one and it still showed bad electrical misses
> with a dirty carb.
>
> Mike
>
> mark@islandtelecom.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
>> manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
>> market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
>> reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
>> it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
>> wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
>> ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
>> then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
>> to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
>> withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
>> halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
>> what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
>> unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
>> there could be another problem.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>> > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
>> > rotor is hitting the cap...
>> >
>> > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
>> > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
>> > intermittent spark.
>> >
>> > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
>> > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
>> > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did
>> > indeed
>> > have a blocked idle tube.
>> >
>> > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>> >
>> > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>> >
>> > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
>> > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
>> > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
>> > is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > mark wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
>> > > but
>> > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
>> > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
>> > > gapped to
>> > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
>> > > shaft
>> > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and
>> > > down, 1/8"
>> > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes
>> > > manual
>> > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace.
>> > > What do
>> > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI
>> > > from a
>> > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?