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258's distributor
I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems > but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not > flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are > gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor > shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up > and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and > forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and > it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it > worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a > rebuilt stock unit? play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good. Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again it will be an external coil. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! |
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems > but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not > flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are > gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor > shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up > and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and > forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and > it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it > worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a > rebuilt stock unit? play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good. Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again it will be an external coil. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! |
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems > but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not > flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are > gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor > shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up > and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and > forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and > it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it > worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a > rebuilt stock unit? play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good. Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt. http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/ Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again it will be an external coil. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! |
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap... If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or intermittent spark. We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed have a blocked idle tube. http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD is the best way to start for a manual tune. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) mark wrote: > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap... If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or intermittent spark. We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed have a blocked idle tube. http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD is the best way to start for a manual tune. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) mark wrote: > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap... If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or intermittent spark. We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed have a blocked idle tube. http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD is the best way to start for a manual tune. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) mark wrote: > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes, it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs, wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2 withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman. unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if there could be another problem. Mike Romain wrote: > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the > rotor is hitting the cap... > > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or > intermittent spark. > > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed > have a blocked idle tube. > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 > > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... > > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD > is the best way to start for a manual tune. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > mark wrote: > > > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes, it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs, wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2 withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman. unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if there could be another problem. Mike Romain wrote: > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the > rotor is hitting the cap... > > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or > intermittent spark. > > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed > have a blocked idle tube. > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 > > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... > > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD > is the best way to start for a manual tune. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > mark wrote: > > > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes, it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs, wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2 withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman. unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if there could be another problem. Mike Romain wrote: > The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the > rotor is hitting the cap... > > If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment > or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or > intermittent spark. > > We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad > spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped > every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed > have a blocked idle tube. > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 > > Your distributor does sound pretty worn though... > > If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford > emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find > having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD > is the best way to start for a manual tune. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > mark wrote: > > > > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but > > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash > > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to > > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft > > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8" > > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual > > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do > > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a > > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit? |
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