258's distributor
12-04-2006, 04:00 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
258's distributor
I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-04-2006, 04:21 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
12-04-2006, 04:21 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
12-04-2006, 04:21 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
mark wrote:
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems
> but recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not
> flash consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are
> gapped to 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor
> shaft or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up
> and down, 1/8" play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and
> forth. The haynes manual says any noyicable play back and forth and
> it is time to replace. What do you guys think. If replacing, is it
> worth converting to the GM HEI from a salvage yard or just buy a
> rebuilt stock unit?
play will cause all sorts of problems including messing up the
timing and spark. 1/8" play up/down is also not good.
Time for a rebuilt distributor. I did mine in about half an hour
including the beer break. Different setup though. You will have
to mark the rotor position and the distributor position since IIRC
yours has the C style holddown. Mine just has one bolt.
http://revbeergoggles.com/distributor/
Don't know about the HEI. I'm thinking about a MSD system for my ZJ.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm
I had problems in my old Chevey with the HEI coil burning though
the rotor and with excessive heat buildup. If I go that way again
it will be an external coil.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
12-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
rotor is hitting the cap...
If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
intermittent spark.
We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
have a blocked idle tube.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
is the best way to start for a manual tune.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
mark wrote:
>
> I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-05-2006, 07:20 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-05-2006, 07:20 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
12-05-2006, 07:20 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258's distributor
Hi mike it is Mark form PEI again, since I last talked to you the
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?
manifolds have been off and re gasketed and torqued and the carb (after
market bbd non computer) has been completely taken apart cleaned and
reassembled and a few years ago I did the drill out of the idle tubes,
it also has a functioning manual choke. No vacuum leaks and new plugs,
wired, cap and rotor. (Also new chain and timing gears less than 5000km
ago) The testers I used go onto the plug as the wire normally does and
then the wire goes onto these. They flash if there is electricity going
to the plug. Some flash at a steady pace and some may go a second or 2
withought flashing, the engine will not run unless I have the throttle
halfway down and it is definately not firing all cylinders. I can't see
what else it could be other than the distributor? I can get a reman.
unit for around $115.00 can. but I don't want to waste the money if
there could be another problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> The small play back and forth shouldn't be messing things up unless the
> rotor is hitting the cap...
>
> If you are using an induction spark tester, the carb out of adjustment
> or with a plugged idle tube can show up on the tester as no spark or
> intermittent spark.
>
> We chased one of those all over the freaking place once that showed bad
> spark on cylinders 1, 2 and not so bad but there cylinder 3. We swapped
> every part in the system before checking to see that the carb did indeed
> have a blocked idle tube.
>
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>
> Your distributor does sound pretty worn though...
>
> If you are going to a GM HEI, you can then get rid of that Ford
> emissions computer and manually set up the mix on the carb. I find
> having the stepper mix pins in the center of the mix travel on the BBD
> is the best way to start for a manual tune.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> mark wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85 cj-7 and all along I thought it was having carb problems but
> > recently bought some spark plug testers and noticed the do not flash
> > consistantly. Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are new and plugs are gapped to
> > 0.030". There is 275000+km on the motor. I read that the distributor shaft
> > or bushing could be worn so I checked and I have 1/8" play up and down, 1/8"
> > play rotationally and a tiny bit of play back and forth. The haynes manual
> > says any noyicable play back and forth and it is time to replace. What do
> > you guys think. If replacing, is it worth converting to the GM HEI from a
> > salvage yard or just buy a rebuilt stock unit?