1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
01-15-2004, 10:41 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
Mike,
Didn't say this in the initial posting because I didn't think it
relevant, but original carb is gone and there is a Weber on there now.
And I don't know for sure, but looking back and thinking back I
believe I've had this problem for some time -- even when the original
carburator was still in place. (The Scrambler is driven on an
irregular basis.)
Still no joy -- more suggestions please ......
Mike
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:44:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I got suckered with those symptoms and an inductive timing light and
>went after parts.
>
>It was plugged idle tubes in the carb. The lack of or wrong amount of
>gas reaching the plugs affected the timing light implying a spark
>problem.
>
>I figured it out after there was nothing electrical left to change...
>
>Here is a link on the idle tubes and the fix for them. I can fix them
>from the top in about 15 minutes now that I know how to do it.
>
>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
>
>Also a kit for that carb is only twenty bucks or so and should be done
>with every major tuneup or spark plug change.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> Trying to set the timing.
>>
>> Can't do it.
>>
>> Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>>
>> Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> speed.
>>
>> Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>>
>> Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>>
>> Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>>
>> No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> the distributor or elsewhere.
>>
>> Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> modifications to the electrical system.
>>
>> Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>>
>> Thanks ......
>>
>> Mike
>> Michael Pomeroy
Michael Pomeroy
Didn't say this in the initial posting because I didn't think it
relevant, but original carb is gone and there is a Weber on there now.
And I don't know for sure, but looking back and thinking back I
believe I've had this problem for some time -- even when the original
carburator was still in place. (The Scrambler is driven on an
irregular basis.)
Still no joy -- more suggestions please ......
Mike
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:44:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I got suckered with those symptoms and an inductive timing light and
>went after parts.
>
>It was plugged idle tubes in the carb. The lack of or wrong amount of
>gas reaching the plugs affected the timing light implying a spark
>problem.
>
>I figured it out after there was nothing electrical left to change...
>
>Here is a link on the idle tubes and the fix for them. I can fix them
>from the top in about 15 minutes now that I know how to do it.
>
>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
>
>Also a kit for that carb is only twenty bucks or so and should be done
>with every major tuneup or spark plug change.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> Trying to set the timing.
>>
>> Can't do it.
>>
>> Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>>
>> Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> speed.
>>
>> Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>>
>> Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>>
>> Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>>
>> No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> the distributor or elsewhere.
>>
>> Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> modifications to the electrical system.
>>
>> Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>>
>> Thanks ......
>>
>> Mike
>> Michael Pomeroy
Michael Pomeroy
01-15-2004, 10:41 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
Mike,
Didn't say this in the initial posting because I didn't think it
relevant, but original carb is gone and there is a Weber on there now.
And I don't know for sure, but looking back and thinking back I
believe I've had this problem for some time -- even when the original
carburator was still in place. (The Scrambler is driven on an
irregular basis.)
Still no joy -- more suggestions please ......
Mike
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:44:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I got suckered with those symptoms and an inductive timing light and
>went after parts.
>
>It was plugged idle tubes in the carb. The lack of or wrong amount of
>gas reaching the plugs affected the timing light implying a spark
>problem.
>
>I figured it out after there was nothing electrical left to change...
>
>Here is a link on the idle tubes and the fix for them. I can fix them
>from the top in about 15 minutes now that I know how to do it.
>
>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
>
>Also a kit for that carb is only twenty bucks or so and should be done
>with every major tuneup or spark plug change.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> Trying to set the timing.
>>
>> Can't do it.
>>
>> Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>>
>> Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> speed.
>>
>> Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>>
>> Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>>
>> Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>>
>> No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> the distributor or elsewhere.
>>
>> Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> modifications to the electrical system.
>>
>> Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>>
>> Thanks ......
>>
>> Mike
>> Michael Pomeroy
Michael Pomeroy
Didn't say this in the initial posting because I didn't think it
relevant, but original carb is gone and there is a Weber on there now.
And I don't know for sure, but looking back and thinking back I
believe I've had this problem for some time -- even when the original
carburator was still in place. (The Scrambler is driven on an
irregular basis.)
Still no joy -- more suggestions please ......
Mike
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:44:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I got suckered with those symptoms and an inductive timing light and
>went after parts.
>
>It was plugged idle tubes in the carb. The lack of or wrong amount of
>gas reaching the plugs affected the timing light implying a spark
>problem.
>
>I figured it out after there was nothing electrical left to change...
>
>Here is a link on the idle tubes and the fix for them. I can fix them
>from the top in about 15 minutes now that I know how to do it.
>
>http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
>
>Also a kit for that carb is only twenty bucks or so and should be done
>with every major tuneup or spark plug change.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> Trying to set the timing.
>>
>> Can't do it.
>>
>> Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>>
>> Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> speed.
>>
>> Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>>
>> Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>>
>> Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>>
>> No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> the distributor or elsewhere.
>>
>> Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> modifications to the electrical system.
>>
>> Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>>
>> Thanks ......
>>
>> Mike
>> Michael Pomeroy
Michael Pomeroy
01-15-2004, 10:44 PM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
01-15-2004, 10:44 PM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
01-15-2004, 10:44 PM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
> Bill,
>
> I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and
> tried it.
>
> I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.
>
> The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.
>
> (Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about
> 50,000 total miles on it; the last 40,000 using Mobil 1 synthetic.
> And routine oil analysis show minimal wear.)
>
> So -- what now; more suggestions please .....
Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
you should have a nice blue spark.
Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
like this one
<http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
--
DougW
01-15-2004, 10:50 PM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
Doug,
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
01-15-2004, 10:50 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
Doug,
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
01-15-2004, 10:50 PM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
Doug,
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:44:09 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>pomerom@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
** snip **
>
>
>Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor
>or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?
No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there
was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at
all.
>Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer
>higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.
Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.
>If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank
>you should have a nice blue spark.
When it does "spark", it does look good.
>Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and
>the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base.
New plugs.
All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no
good.
Thanks for the suggestions ......
Mike
>A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp
>like this one
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=272-707>
>
>You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other.
>Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp
>lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.
>
>The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.
Michael Pomeroy
01-16-2004, 09:22 AM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
I have had more than one fail with NO external sign of anything wrong.
Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition module.
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
>
> So still stumped ......
>
> Mike
>
> On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> wrote:
>
> >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if back
is
> >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
>
> Michael Pomeroy
Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition module.
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
>
> So still stumped ......
>
> Mike
>
> On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> wrote:
>
> >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if back
is
> >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
>
> Michael Pomeroy
01-16-2004, 09:22 AM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem
I have had more than one fail with NO external sign of anything wrong.
Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition module.
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
>
> So still stumped ......
>
> Mike
>
> On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> wrote:
>
> >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if back
is
> >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
>
> Michael Pomeroy
Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition module.
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
>
> So still stumped ......
>
> Mike
>
> On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> wrote:
>
> >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if back
is
> >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
>
> Michael Pomeroy