Drink

I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"aGraham" <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote in message
news:aarongraham-8DFCA8.09422716012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> Some stores, NAPA, maybe others will also test the module for you. BUT
> the test is not always conclusive. I had a bad module that tested fine
> on the machine but had just left me stranded. Your problem sounds alot
> like what was happening when mine went bad. Would be driving down the
> road then the motor would just start missing. One thing I was told was
> to watch your tach, if you have one, if it is dropping to zero, while
> the motor is missing then it is you module.
>
>
> In article <HrL6L9.9C8@news.boeing.com>,
> "breyfogle" <breyfogle@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I have had more than one fail with NO external sign of anything wrong.
> > Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition
module.
> > <pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> > > Thanks for the suggestion.
> > >
> > > I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
> > >
> > > So still stumped ......
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if
back
> > is
> > > >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
> > >
> > > Michael Pomeroy
> >
> >
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

Drink

I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"aGraham" <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote in message
news:aarongraham-8DFCA8.09422716012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> Some stores, NAPA, maybe others will also test the module for you. BUT
> the test is not always conclusive. I had a bad module that tested fine
> on the machine but had just left me stranded. Your problem sounds alot
> like what was happening when mine went bad. Would be driving down the
> road then the motor would just start missing. One thing I was told was
> to watch your tach, if you have one, if it is dropping to zero, while
> the motor is missing then it is you module.
>
>
> In article <HrL6L9.9C8@news.boeing.com>,
> "breyfogle" <breyfogle@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I have had more than one fail with NO external sign of anything wrong.
> > Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition
module.
> > <pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> > > Thanks for the suggestion.
> > >
> > > I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
> > >
> > > So still stumped ......
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if
back
> > is
> > > >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
> > >
> > > Michael Pomeroy
> >
> >
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

Drink

I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"aGraham" <aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote in message
news:aarongraham-8DFCA8.09422716012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> Some stores, NAPA, maybe others will also test the module for you. BUT
> the test is not always conclusive. I had a bad module that tested fine
> on the machine but had just left me stranded. Your problem sounds alot
> like what was happening when mine went bad. Would be driving down the
> road then the motor would just start missing. One thing I was told was
> to watch your tach, if you have one, if it is dropping to zero, while
> the motor is missing then it is you module.
>
>
> In article <HrL6L9.9C8@news.boeing.com>,
> "breyfogle" <breyfogle@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I have had more than one fail with NO external sign of anything wrong.
> > Swapping modules is the only real way of checking for a bad ignition
module.
> > <pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:uume00l7o9ivdnu9vkgudm61im70p048bd@4ax.com...
> > > Thanks for the suggestion.
> > >
> > > I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.
> > >
> > > So still stumped ......
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > On 15 Jan 2004 05:05:34 GMT, onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com (Onlyinajeepcj7)
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if
back
> > is
> > > >melted, it is bad or on it's way out.
> > >
> > > Michael Pomeroy
> >
> >
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

breyfogle

Mike

When you replaced the distributer and the Ignition Module, did you look at
the condition of the barrel plugs (one for the distributer, 2 for the IgM) ?
I have had considerable problems over the years keeping them corrosion free
enough to work, even in Southern Calif. The moisture in Florida might be
really bad for electrical contact corrosion. Symptoms can be very much like
a failed unit but if the female side (i.e. wiring harness) side of the plug
is corroded, the new IgM or dist will act just like the old one .
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:qimm00djtnp24m1ueesdoed7mdki9vjfrr@4ax.com...
> An update -- Still no luck.
>
> Have now replaced the ignition module AND the distributor (with a
> rebuilt unit). So this goes along with new plugs, wires (twice),
> distributor cap and rotor (twice).
>
> I have read other recent suggestions and will be following up on those
> too.
>
> Please give any more advice you can, because I've now become very
> frustrated ......
>
> Mike
>
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >Trying to set the timing.
> >
> >Can't do it.
> >
> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >
> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >speed.
> >
> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >
> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >
> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >
> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >
> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >
> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >
> >Thanks ......
> >
> >Mike
> >Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy

breyfogle

Mike

When you replaced the distributer and the Ignition Module, did you look at
the condition of the barrel plugs (one for the distributer, 2 for the IgM) ?
I have had considerable problems over the years keeping them corrosion free
enough to work, even in Southern Calif. The moisture in Florida might be
really bad for electrical contact corrosion. Symptoms can be very much like
a failed unit but if the female side (i.e. wiring harness) side of the plug
is corroded, the new IgM or dist will act just like the old one .
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:qimm00djtnp24m1ueesdoed7mdki9vjfrr@4ax.com...
> An update -- Still no luck.
>
> Have now replaced the ignition module AND the distributor (with a
> rebuilt unit). So this goes along with new plugs, wires (twice),
> distributor cap and rotor (twice).
>
> I have read other recent suggestions and will be following up on those
> too.
>
> Please give any more advice you can, because I've now become very
> frustrated ......
>
> Mike
>
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >Trying to set the timing.
> >
> >Can't do it.
> >
> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >
> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >speed.
> >
> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >
> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >
> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >
> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >
> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >
> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >
> >Thanks ......
> >
> >Mike
> >Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy

breyfogle

Mike

When you replaced the distributer and the Ignition Module, did you look at
the condition of the barrel plugs (one for the distributer, 2 for the IgM) ?
I have had considerable problems over the years keeping them corrosion free
enough to work, even in Southern Calif. The moisture in Florida might be
really bad for electrical contact corrosion. Symptoms can be very much like
a failed unit but if the female side (i.e. wiring harness) side of the plug
is corroded, the new IgM or dist will act just like the old one .
<pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:qimm00djtnp24m1ueesdoed7mdki9vjfrr@4ax.com...
> An update -- Still no luck.
>
> Have now replaced the ignition module AND the distributor (with a
> rebuilt unit). So this goes along with new plugs, wires (twice),
> distributor cap and rotor (twice).
>
> I have read other recent suggestions and will be following up on those
> too.
>
> Please give any more advice you can, because I've now become very
> frustrated ......
>
> Mike
>
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >Trying to set the timing.
> >
> >Can't do it.
> >
> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >
> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >speed.
> >
> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >
> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >
> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >
> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >
> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >
> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >
> >Thanks ......
> >
> >Mike
> >Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy

L0nD0t.$t0we11

Roughly 1/20/04 23:26, Drink's monkeys randomly typed:

> I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
> get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
> malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
> I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
> trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.

Girl friend's hair dryer works very nicely for checking heat
issues of electronics. Less waiting, easier to direct the
hot air.

--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

L0nD0t.$t0we11

Roughly 1/20/04 23:26, Drink's monkeys randomly typed:

> I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
> get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
> malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
> I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
> trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.

Girl friend's hair dryer works very nicely for checking heat
issues of electronics. Less waiting, easier to direct the
hot air.

--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

L0nD0t.$t0we11

Roughly 1/20/04 23:26, Drink's monkeys randomly typed:

> I've seen test methods where they say to put a drop light next to it and
> get it hot (don't burn it. Just heat it up) and see if that reproduces the
> malfunction. Gotta agree with the other statement of swapping the module.
> I'd strongly recommend carrying an extra anyway since, if it goes on the
> trail, that's the only way to get it on it's feet again.

Girl friend's hair dryer works very nicely for checking heat
issues of electronics. Less waiting, easier to direct the
hot air.

--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

pomerom@yahoo.com

Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.

What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
something).
1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
3: Replaced coil
4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
6: Checked and rechecked all connections
6: Replaced the ignition control module
7: Replaced the distributor
8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
cables.
9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
think, within spec
10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully

*** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***

11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
(Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
order.)
Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.

So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......

Mike

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:

>Trying to set the timing.
>
>Can't do it.
>
>Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>
>Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>speed.
>
>Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>
>Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>
>Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>
>No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>the distributor or elsewhere.
>
>Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>modifications to the electrical system.
>
>Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>
>Thanks ......
>
>Mike
>Michael Pomeroy

Michael Pomeroy