pomerom@yahoo.com

Mike,

That's what logic would seem to say, that there is some problem with
this clip/these connections. But try as hard as I can, I couldn't
observe anything bad at all; nor could I make it fail.

I'll keep watching and messing and see what happens and let you know
if I come up with anything. (If it does turn out to be that, I
replaced a lot of parts unnecessarily. Of course, now I've got some
good old spare stuff.)

And thanks to you guys I've learned some things.

I've driven the Scrambler more the last two weeks, probably, than I
did all of last year. Plan to keep driving it as my daily driver for
a while so we shall see.

Thanks ..... Mike

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:29:00 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>The coil power wires can get brittle and start to pull apart. Pushing
>the clip back on might have shoved enough strands of copper back
>together to allow a decent spark.
>
>Just a wild assed guess, but it happened to me out in the bush on New
>Years. It started losing power then up and quit on me.
>
>I went looking around then noticed a crack in the insulation going to
>the coil negative connection. Sure enough only one copper strand
>holding that let go as soon as I touched it.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
>>
>> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
>> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
>> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
>> something).
>> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
>> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
>> 3: Replaced coil
>> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
>> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
>> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
>> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
>> 7: Replaced the distributor
>> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
>> cables.
>> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
>> think, within spec
>> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
>>
>> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
>>
>> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
>> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
>> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
>> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
>> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
>> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
>> order.)
>> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
>>
>> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
>>
>> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >Trying to set the timing.
>> >
>> >Can't do it.
>> >
>> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>> >
>> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> >speed.
>> >
>> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>> >
>> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>> >
>> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>> >
>> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> >the distributor or elsewhere.
>> >
>> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> >modifications to the electrical system.
>> >
>> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>> >
>> >Thanks ......
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >Michael Pomeroy
>>
>> Michael Pomeroy

Michael Pomeroy

pomerom@yahoo.com

Well, actually I guess -- both.

What I was talking about below is the little clip that snaps onto the
two connectors on the shoulder of the coil.

Of course when I replaced the clip onto the "original" coil (and also
back onto the new coil), I also had to replace the "coil to
distributor" lead as well.

But I'd actually replaced just that lead from the coil to the
distributor at least twice before with no good results.

Mike

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 21:31:30 -0500, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>The coil wires on the primary side or the high-voltage side?
>
>
>On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
>>
>> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
>> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
>> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
>> something).
>> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
>> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
>> 3: Replaced coil
>> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
>> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
>> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
>> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
>> 7: Replaced the distributor
>> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
>> cables.
>> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
>> think, within spec
>> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
>>
>> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
>>
>> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
>> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
>> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
>> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
>> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
>> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
>> order.)
>> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
>>
>> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
>>
>> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >Trying to set the timing.
>> >
>> >Can't do it.
>> >
>> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>> >
>> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> >speed.
>> >
>> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>> >
>> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>> >
>> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>> >
>> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> >the distributor or elsewhere.
>> >
>> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> >modifications to the electrical system.
>> >
>> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>> >
>> >Thanks ......
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >Michael Pomeroy
>>
>> Michael Pomeroy
>>

Michael Pomeroy

pomerom@yahoo.com

Well, actually I guess -- both.

What I was talking about below is the little clip that snaps onto the
two connectors on the shoulder of the coil.

Of course when I replaced the clip onto the "original" coil (and also
back onto the new coil), I also had to replace the "coil to
distributor" lead as well.

But I'd actually replaced just that lead from the coil to the
distributor at least twice before with no good results.

Mike

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 21:31:30 -0500, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>The coil wires on the primary side or the high-voltage side?
>
>
>On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
>>
>> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
>> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
>> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
>> something).
>> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
>> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
>> 3: Replaced coil
>> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
>> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
>> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
>> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
>> 7: Replaced the distributor
>> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
>> cables.
>> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
>> think, within spec
>> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
>>
>> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
>>
>> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
>> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
>> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
>> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
>> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
>> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
>> order.)
>> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
>>
>> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
>>
>> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >Trying to set the timing.
>> >
>> >Can't do it.
>> >
>> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>> >
>> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> >speed.
>> >
>> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>> >
>> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>> >
>> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>> >
>> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> >the distributor or elsewhere.
>> >
>> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> >modifications to the electrical system.
>> >
>> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>> >
>> >Thanks ......
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >Michael Pomeroy
>>
>> Michael Pomeroy
>>

Michael Pomeroy

pomerom@yahoo.com

Well, actually I guess -- both.

What I was talking about below is the little clip that snaps onto the
two connectors on the shoulder of the coil.

Of course when I replaced the clip onto the "original" coil (and also
back onto the new coil), I also had to replace the "coil to
distributor" lead as well.

But I'd actually replaced just that lead from the coil to the
distributor at least twice before with no good results.

Mike

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 21:31:30 -0500, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>The coil wires on the primary side or the high-voltage side?
>
>
>On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
>>
>> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
>> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
>> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
>> something).
>> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
>> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
>> 3: Replaced coil
>> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
>> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
>> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
>> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
>> 7: Replaced the distributor
>> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
>> cables.
>> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
>> think, within spec
>> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
>>
>> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
>>
>> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
>> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
>> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
>> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
>> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
>> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
>> order.)
>> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
>>
>> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
>>
>> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >Trying to set the timing.
>> >
>> >Can't do it.
>> >
>> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
>> >
>> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
>> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
>> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
>> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
>> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
>> >speed.
>> >
>> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
>> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
>> >
>> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
>> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
>> >
>> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
>> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
>> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
>> >
>> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
>> >the distributor or elsewhere.
>> >
>> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
>> >modifications to the electrical system.
>> >
>> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
>> >
>> >Thanks ......
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >Michael Pomeroy
>>
>> Michael Pomeroy
>>

Michael Pomeroy

Mike Romain

Mine failed right where the negative green wire goes into the wiring
loom about 8" from the coil. It was difficult to spot, but it sure
sounded spark related and once I verified I had gas going into the carb
I went after wires.

Those Ford coil plugs are really crappy though. I have seen a lot of
them fail due to the slightest bit of corrosion. Unplugging and
resetting it has worked more than once for me.

I now have an Accel coil, so have regular loop connectors that bolt on.

Mike

pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> That's what logic would seem to say, that there is some problem with
> this clip/these connections. But try as hard as I can, I couldn't
> observe anything bad at all; nor could I make it fail.
>
> I'll keep watching and messing and see what happens and let you know
> if I come up with anything. (If it does turn out to be that, I
> replaced a lot of parts unnecessarily. Of course, now I've got some
> good old spare stuff.)
>
> And thanks to you guys I've learned some things.
>
> I've driven the Scrambler more the last two weeks, probably, than I
> did all of last year. Plan to keep driving it as my daily driver for
> a while so we shall see.
>
> Thanks ..... Mike
>
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:29:00 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >The coil power wires can get brittle and start to pull apart. Pushing
> >the clip back on might have shoved enough strands of copper back
> >together to allow a decent spark.
> >
> >Just a wild assed guess, but it happened to me out in the bush on New
> >Years. It started losing power then up and quit on me.
> >
> >I went looking around then noticed a crack in the insulation going to
> >the coil negative connection. Sure enough only one copper strand
> >holding that let go as soon as I touched it.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
> >>
> >> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
> >> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
> >> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
> >> something).
> >> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
> >> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
> >> 3: Replaced coil
> >> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
> >> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
> >> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
> >> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
> >> 7: Replaced the distributor
> >> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
> >> cables.
> >> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
> >> think, within spec
> >> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
> >>
> >> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
> >>
> >> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
> >> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
> >> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
> >> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
> >> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
> >> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
> >> order.)
> >> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
> >>
> >> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
> >>
> >> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> >Trying to set the timing.
> >> >
> >> >Can't do it.
> >> >
> >> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >> >
> >> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >> >speed.
> >> >
> >> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >> >
> >> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >> >
> >> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >> >
> >> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >> >
> >> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >> >
> >> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >> >
> >> >Thanks ......
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >Michael Pomeroy
> >>
> >> Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy

Mike Romain

Mine failed right where the negative green wire goes into the wiring
loom about 8" from the coil. It was difficult to spot, but it sure
sounded spark related and once I verified I had gas going into the carb
I went after wires.

Those Ford coil plugs are really crappy though. I have seen a lot of
them fail due to the slightest bit of corrosion. Unplugging and
resetting it has worked more than once for me.

I now have an Accel coil, so have regular loop connectors that bolt on.

Mike

pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> That's what logic would seem to say, that there is some problem with
> this clip/these connections. But try as hard as I can, I couldn't
> observe anything bad at all; nor could I make it fail.
>
> I'll keep watching and messing and see what happens and let you know
> if I come up with anything. (If it does turn out to be that, I
> replaced a lot of parts unnecessarily. Of course, now I've got some
> good old spare stuff.)
>
> And thanks to you guys I've learned some things.
>
> I've driven the Scrambler more the last two weeks, probably, than I
> did all of last year. Plan to keep driving it as my daily driver for
> a while so we shall see.
>
> Thanks ..... Mike
>
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:29:00 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >The coil power wires can get brittle and start to pull apart. Pushing
> >the clip back on might have shoved enough strands of copper back
> >together to allow a decent spark.
> >
> >Just a wild assed guess, but it happened to me out in the bush on New
> >Years. It started losing power then up and quit on me.
> >
> >I went looking around then noticed a crack in the insulation going to
> >the coil negative connection. Sure enough only one copper strand
> >holding that let go as soon as I touched it.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
> >>
> >> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
> >> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
> >> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
> >> something).
> >> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
> >> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
> >> 3: Replaced coil
> >> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
> >> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
> >> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
> >> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
> >> 7: Replaced the distributor
> >> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
> >> cables.
> >> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
> >> think, within spec
> >> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
> >>
> >> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
> >>
> >> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
> >> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
> >> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
> >> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
> >> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
> >> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
> >> order.)
> >> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
> >>
> >> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
> >>
> >> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> >Trying to set the timing.
> >> >
> >> >Can't do it.
> >> >
> >> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >> >
> >> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >> >speed.
> >> >
> >> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >> >
> >> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >> >
> >> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >> >
> >> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >> >
> >> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >> >
> >> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >> >
> >> >Thanks ......
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >Michael Pomeroy
> >>
> >> Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy

Mike Romain

Mine failed right where the negative green wire goes into the wiring
loom about 8" from the coil. It was difficult to spot, but it sure
sounded spark related and once I verified I had gas going into the carb
I went after wires.

Those Ford coil plugs are really crappy though. I have seen a lot of
them fail due to the slightest bit of corrosion. Unplugging and
resetting it has worked more than once for me.

I now have an Accel coil, so have regular loop connectors that bolt on.

Mike

pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> That's what logic would seem to say, that there is some problem with
> this clip/these connections. But try as hard as I can, I couldn't
> observe anything bad at all; nor could I make it fail.
>
> I'll keep watching and messing and see what happens and let you know
> if I come up with anything. (If it does turn out to be that, I
> replaced a lot of parts unnecessarily. Of course, now I've got some
> good old spare stuff.)
>
> And thanks to you guys I've learned some things.
>
> I've driven the Scrambler more the last two weeks, probably, than I
> did all of last year. Plan to keep driving it as my daily driver for
> a while so we shall see.
>
> Thanks ..... Mike
>
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:29:00 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >The coil power wires can get brittle and start to pull apart. Pushing
> >the clip back on might have shoved enough strands of copper back
> >together to allow a decent spark.
> >
> >Just a wild assed guess, but it happened to me out in the bush on New
> >Years. It started losing power then up and quit on me.
> >
> >I went looking around then noticed a crack in the insulation going to
> >the coil negative connection. Sure enough only one copper strand
> >holding that let go as soon as I touched it.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Fixed-at least for the past two weeks. Have driven it daily.
> >>
> >> What a saga I went through; still not sure what was wrong or what
> >> fixed it exactly?! To do a summary recap of it all in the order it
> >> finally happened as best I remember it (and I'm probably forgetting
> >> something).
> >> 1: Replaced plugs and plug wires
> >> 2: Replaced distributor rotor and cap
> >> 3: Replaced coil
> >> 4: Replaced plug wires with better ones
> >> 5: Replaced distribtor rotor and cap again.
> >> 6: Checked and rechecked all connections
> >> 6: Replaced the ignition control module
> >> 7: Replaced the distributor
> >> 8: Checked to make sure good grounds everywhere I could with jumper
> >> cables.
> >> 9: Checked volts throughout at relevant locations and found them, I
> >> think, within spec
> >> 10: Retryed a lot of the above, checking all connectors very carefully
> >>
> >> *** Nothing seemed to have any effect motor would barely run ***
> >>
> >> 11: On a whim and because we didn't know what else to do -- took the
> >> connector to the coil loose and placed it back on the old coil, with
> >> the old coil just laying loose. IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!
> >> 12: Placed the connector back on the new coil which remained bolted to
> >> the engine block-- IT CONTINUES TO WORK.
> >> (Examined this coil connector VERY carefully -- see nothing out of
> >> order.)
> >> Set timing -- and have been driving it for almost two weeks.
> >>
> >> So what happened; I don't know, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
> >>
> >> Thanks to all of you for your suggestions ......
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 02:16:26 GMT, pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>
> >> >Trying to set the timing.
> >> >
> >> >Can't do it.
> >> >
> >> >Engine starts easily and runs, but very ragged.
> >> >
> >> >Intermittent no spark to each plug. Will show a spark correctly for 1
> >> >or 2 or 5 or whatever correct rotations; then go away for various
> >> >periods from momentary to up to several seconds; then more of the
> >> >same. Apparent at idle and at higher rpm's -- with the only
> >> >difference in the rate of spark obviously correlated with engine
> >> >speed.
> >> >
> >> >Can be observed by putting the inductive timing light sensor on #1; or
> >> >any other cylinder wire; or on the coil-to-distributor wires.
> >> >
> >> >Got a second inductive timing light. Same exact symptoms. (Both
> >> >timing lights work just fine on my 90 Cherokee).
> >> >
> >> >Battery is good and fully charged. Weather is warm (I live in
> >> >Florida). Have replaced the coil, the distributor cap & rotor, the
> >> >plugs, and the plug wires. Nothing made any difference.
> >> >
> >> >No evidence of any corrosion or other obvious mechanical issues inside
> >> >the distributor or elsewhere.
> >> >
> >> >Have owned the vehicle since new so I know there have been no
> >> >modifications to the electrical system.
> >> >
> >> >Help please -- what do I check now. What should I do??
> >> >
> >> >Thanks ......
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >Michael Pomeroy
> >>
> >> Michael Pomeroy
>
> Michael Pomeroy