DougW

Daniel Paisley did pass the time by typing:
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258

A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.

Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)

Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.

A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.

Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.

OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm

ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.

ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.


--
DougW

Daniel Paisley

----------@***.net wrote:

Will not restart is a broken piston. Buy a
used engine from a wreck is the least expensive way to go.
____________________________________________

Thanks Bill, but I don't think I'm gonna buy anything used at this
point. I'm thinkin' V8 in the future. I think I am gonna tear it down
just to see what it is. I am doing this with hopes of learning
something. I doubt this motor will ever be put back together, but I just
have to get in there to see what happened :)

Daniel Paisley

----------@***.net wrote:

Will not restart is a broken piston. Buy a
used engine from a wreck is the least expensive way to go.
____________________________________________

Thanks Bill, but I don't think I'm gonna buy anything used at this
point. I'm thinkin' V8 in the future. I think I am gonna tear it down
just to see what it is. I am doing this with hopes of learning
something. I doubt this motor will ever be put back together, but I just
have to get in there to see what happened :)

Daniel Paisley

----------@***.net wrote:

Will not restart is a broken piston. Buy a
used engine from a wreck is the least expensive way to go.
____________________________________________

Thanks Bill, but I don't think I'm gonna buy anything used at this
point. I'm thinkin' V8 in the future. I think I am gonna tear it down
just to see what it is. I am doing this with hopes of learning
something. I doubt this motor will ever be put back together, but I just
have to get in there to see what happened :)

Daniel Paisley

J Strickland wrote:

It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not
think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the
pistons and valves can collide.
You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to
do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course,
the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
_____________________________________________
Thanks Jeff. I was unaware that there were 'interference motors' and
'non-interference motors'. As I stated to Bill, I'm gonna tear it down
and hopefully learn something :)

Daniel Paisley

J Strickland wrote:

It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not
think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the
pistons and valves can collide.
You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to
do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course,
the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
_____________________________________________
Thanks Jeff. I was unaware that there were 'interference motors' and
'non-interference motors'. As I stated to Bill, I'm gonna tear it down
and hopefully learn something :)

Daniel Paisley

J Strickland wrote:

It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not
think the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the
pistons and valves can collide.
You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to
do next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course,
the pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
_____________________________________________
Thanks Jeff. I was unaware that there were 'interference motors' and
'non-interference motors'. As I stated to Bill, I'm gonna tear it down
and hopefully learn something :)

Daniel Paisley

Mike Romain wrote:

The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify it.
The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at firing
TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an exploded
plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
_________________________________________
Thanks Mike. I was thinking bearing also, but was open to suggestions :)
The Jeep was given to me by my brother with 93k on the motor. Instead of
me selling it, he and I decided we are going to 'build' it. I am
however, gonna see just what decided to go. Who knows, maybe some day
I'll be able to give advice ;)

Daniel Paisley

Mike Romain wrote:

The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify it.
The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at firing
TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an exploded
plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
_________________________________________
Thanks Mike. I was thinking bearing also, but was open to suggestions :)
The Jeep was given to me by my brother with 93k on the motor. Instead of
me selling it, he and I decided we are going to 'build' it. I am
however, gonna see just what decided to go. Who knows, maybe some day
I'll be able to give advice ;)

Daniel Paisley

Mike Romain wrote:

The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify it.
The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at firing
TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an exploded
plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
_________________________________________
Thanks Mike. I was thinking bearing also, but was open to suggestions :)
The Jeep was given to me by my brother with 93k on the motor. Instead of
me selling it, he and I decided we are going to 'build' it. I am
however, gonna see just what decided to go. Who knows, maybe some day
I'll be able to give advice ;)