130k & 258 kaput :(
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
The timing chain normally lasts the engine's life, but you can just
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning to verify
it. The rotor also should just be past #1 post when #1 piston is at
firing TDC or opposite if on exhaust TDC. I have seen an 89 with an
exploded plastic timing gear before and no other damage happened.
That would tell you if you have to open the front or bottom at least.
Long term knock that got worse, my guess is a rod bearing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Daniel Paisley wrote:
>
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
J Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
J Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
J Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
J Strickland did pass the time by typing:
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
> It is very difficult from here to tell you what has failed. I do not think
> the 258 is an Interference Motor, which means I do not think the pistons and
> valves can collide.
>
> You'll need to pull the motor and take the oil pan off to know what to do
> next. You could have bent a pushrod or something easy ... Of course, the
> pushrods are seen by taking the valve cover off.
The 258 is a non-interference motor.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
Daniel Paisley did pass the time by typing:
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
Daniel Paisley did pass the time by typing:
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 130k & 258 kaput :(
Daniel Paisley did pass the time by typing:
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW
> Hello folks. It's been a long time since I've posted in here, and now
> I've got some bad news (for me @ least). Two Sunday's ago I checked all
> fluids as I do every Sunday and fuelled up for the week. The oil was 1/2
> qt. low but looked good since I had recently changed it so I added 1/2.
> On my way home from topping off the gas tank the motor turned 130 miles.
> Monday morning on my way to work a _major_ knocking sound appeared and
> the Jeep started 'shaking'. I figured it was done and I would try to
> 'limp' it home since there isn't much traffic on the road at 4:00 a.m..
> I went about 2 miles and decided to stop and call a tow truck. I checked
> the oil and it was at the full line on the dipstick, but real black. I
> tried to move it in the driveway but now it won't start. So did it blow?
> Maybe timing went and piston hit valve? It has had a lower end knock
> since I've had it, and that it what seemed to get loud. Any ideas before
> I start to disassemble? Oops almost forgot, '89 Wrangler 258
A simple compression check will tell you if a piston has holed out.
And while your there check the plugs. A cracked plug can also cause
problems.
Lifting the valve cover and looking will tell you if a lifter has died
and cranking it while looking will tell you if something else is bad.
(crank, not start, pull the coil feed)
Shaking could be a ignition and/or timing issue too.
Like others have said, timing chain slip is possible I don't remember
if the 89 has steel or plastic teeth. IIRC they are steel.
A head gasket blowing would have filled up the oil with coolant or the
coolant with oil. Plus the usual white tailpipe smogcloud o doom.
Depending on your pain threshold a short block might be a good idea.
OEM: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/moparonline.htm
ENGINE, 4.0L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-91 $1,887.30
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
ENGINE, 4.2L - 4.0L, 4.2L 87-90 $1,296.00 (+800$ core charge)
Includes: Block With Pistons, Rings, Pins, Rods, Main Bearings And Crankshaft.
--
DougW